G.E. Electric Motor problems

I have a 1-1/2 H.P. G.E. motor powering a two stage 1-1/4" deep well pump.
The label plate is difficult to read and the wiring diagram is missing. It appears to be " KG(possibly a 6)49PC410K, 115/230VAC motor.
The motor will start and run for about five minutes before the thermal switch opens. Just prior to the switch opening I can hear the motor bog down to the point that the starting switch kicks the starting windings in. The motor will complete this cycle several times before the switch opens. At this point the motor casing in very warm to the touch but you can still hold your hand on the case.
I have opened the motor, lubricated the free-end bushing, greased the coupling-end bearing, cleared the ventilation ports and fan, dressed the start switch contacts and cleaned all mechanical connections...yet the problem continues. BTW, just for grins, I ran the motor uncoupled for several hours and the case never got past cool!!
Being as this is a dual voltage, capacitor start, induction run motor I am concerned that it is wired properly for 115VAC.
The terminal board in the end bell has four posts: #1 line, #2 empty, #3 a white wire and a yellow from within the stator, #4 line.
The thermal switch makes no sense to me as one of its three termial goes to the back side of terminal #2 (to which nothing is connected).
Can any of y"all help me get this thing running continously on high speed ???
(BTW..I am supplying power with only a ten foot lenght of #10 wire from a wall outlet...suspecting voltage drop here)
Thank all respondants in advance,
EddiePetty
 
Is the pump binding up ?

Does it have a capacitor on it ? Maybe bad.

Are you sure the centrifugal switch is not keeping the start windings in ?
 
Eddie

My old motor chart shows that the full load amps for a 1.5hp motor wired for 120 volts is 20 amps.And it calls for #10 wire. Is this a new installation? Is the pump noisy? Can you swap out motors or the pump and motor? How deep is the well. Is this a jet pump installation ? Can you switch to 230 volts. Do you have a friend who is a good electrician?

steveormary
 
IH2444,
The pump is free and pumps excellent.
The capacitor has been replaced and is functioning (440-552MFD).
I can watch the centrifugal switch open and close thru the endbell vent slots.

Ed in "ol Virginny
 
steveormary,
Not a new installation, I am using #10 from the receptacle to the pressure switch, the pump run is 15' horizontal and 3' verticle (I pumping out a duck pond for maintenance), it is a jet pump, and yes, I have swapped motors and the little 1/2 H.P. runs the pump but struggles to maintain pressure.
I relly would like to use this big two-stage pump. And finally, Y-O-U are my friend that is a good electrican !!!!!!
Ed in 'ol Virginny
 
eddy;

I have been told that but it never seemed to show up on my pay check.

Good luck. Hope yoy can get it fixed.

steveormary
 
Hi Ed,

You have me confused as too what type of pump you have. First you say it's a two stage indicating a submersible deep well pump. Then your saying it's a jet pump and all common jet pumps are single stage pumps.

Going from your last description and jet pump naming, then did you install a check valve in the suction piping? Jet pumps won't work well without a check valve or a leaking check valve. This would cause the pump to run hot, partial pump, or not pump at all.

The jet pump seals also do not like to be run dry. If the pump has run dry for any length of time then you'll need to install new pump seals. Be sure the ventura orifice is clean located inside the pump inlet.

T_Bone
 
What is the line current? What is the voltage at the plug while the motor is running?
Dressing electrical contacts is for emergencies only. The thin silver layer was either gone before dressing. It is certainly gone after dressing if you used anything rougher than a dollar bill.
Two stage? Is this a pump set up with the deep well injector? If so where and how many hoses?
 
Centrifugal pumps work harder when pumping more volume and less hard when pumping more pressure, which is counterintuitive. So perhaps you are pumping more than the design volume and thus simply working the pump too hard. If so, the fix would be to restrict the outlet a bit.
But I found you because I have my own problem. After 8 years, My yr 2000, 1/2 hp, GE shallow well pump doesn"t start unless I hit the centrifugal switch. I haven"t taken it apart yet. It is model 5KH39HN3528DX. Is that likely the capacitor? It may have been running a bit hot because I found dust in the vents, but it never ran for more than 30 seconds at a time. Where is the capacitor? as it is not on the outside on this model.
 
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