G transport question

[47 DEERE]

Guys, I am going to move my G to a new place. 500 mile trip. I have never transported her yet and need your assistance on the proper and safe way to tie her down on the trailer. I have hauled other types of machines but never a row crop type. I don"t want to damage her. thanks for your assistance.

 

[Dan in Ohio]

I use grade 70 3/8 chain. Two on the front and two on the back hooked to different spots (not to a single clevis on the front and back).

 

[bigboreG]

I put a clevis on either side of the frame, where it drops down just in front of the crankcase. There are holes on each side you can use. Pull towards the front with those two chains. Then take two more chains and put one on the left side of drawbar support, and one on the right. Pull these to the back. Use 4 binders, one for each chain. Do not use a drawbar pin in the clevis, use a bolt and double nut it. If you have to use a pin, make sure it has a cotter pin to secure it, not a hair pin or a clip pin. These can come loose and fall out. Leave the tractor in neutral and set both brakes. Get the chains tight the first time and you wont be stopping to tighten them again. I prefer ratchet binders, but to each there own. Have a safe trip!

 

[Aleuicius]

Attach four separate points on tractor frame so you can only lose one if something breaks. Straps work on front, but always chains to the back. Set brakes and put in rev after everything is tight.
Check at your first stop (tho I check at every, it only takes a walk-around)and you should be good for the remainder.
It"s the loose stuff (seats, sheetmetal)and turbos I need reminding of

 

[Nick m]

Like others said, check for loose stuff on the tractor. I've lost a seat cushion and an air stack cap.

 

[Mike Aylward]

I would not use straps to hold on a tractor at any point. The DOT frowns on them as well. When I haul my tractors (such as my working 70) I run a good clevis through the drawbar on the rear with a good pin and often place blocks under the drawbar so it can't flex against the chain. I run a grade 70 chain through the clevis angling it toward the rear and tighten it with a screw type binder. They will keep the load tighter than a snap-over type. On the front, I put a similar clevis on the FRONT hole of the drawbar and run a chain through this to both sides of the trailer angling forward. I asked two different DOT agents if this was acceptable and they both told me that as long as the chain and binders had a load rating exceeding the weight of the tractor this was very acceptable. They frown severely on running a chain around a part of the tractor that is sharp and will likely write you a ticket if you do the same with a strap. Just be sure your chains are G70 (transport) chains and not "proof coil" (mild steel) chains. Mike

 

[LarrySTN]

DOT requires 4 point tie down.

 

[Waterloo]

Bigbore I totally agree with you on the attach points. I move two or three tractors at a time for many miles. This method works best on early model two cylinder tractors.

 

[MikeinKy]

If the item is over 10000 lbs.

 

[47 DEERE]

thank you all for the great input. I utilized a 4 point tie down with the set up as big bore outlined. the ford tractor I put on the back and used twine . just kidding. we are off to our new farm in Texas this week ! thank you all again

 

[Mark Poss]

I have seen where the cast iron housing broke where draw bar bolts in when chaining down draw bar

 

[T in NE]

G70 3/8 chain 6600 WLL
G43 3/8 chain 5400 WLL
Even the high-test G43 would meet the minimum requirements for WLL for the load.

That said, I'd get G70 5/16 chain, and get a third.