Gas in oil

[John deere Ed]

I have jd 620 that is getting gas into the oil I put anew float on it but it did not help. Open for suggestions on some other ideas to try thanks for any and all help. Ed

 

[Mike N Mo]

Does your tractor still have the auto fuel shutoff at the sediment bowl? If so, The diaphragms have probably eroded away, allowing gas to flow down thru the oil line that provides pressure to open the fuel valve. Costs about $15 to replace them plus the rubber washer, or eliminate that system and put a ball valve in it's place. Mike

 

[John deere Ed]

Thanks Mike is there a specific name for that ball valve or should I just tell them I want to switch over to a ball valve system
ystem?

 

[PBrowning]

What Mike is telling you - is that a "ball valve" system serves as a suitable work-around. What you are not told here is that choosing this method makes YOU the design engineer! YOU need to locate a suitable ball valve, and YOU need to find the needed fittings, and YOU may need to re-shape or rebuild a fuel line as needed. YOU also need to figure out which parts of the current shut-off system to remove! It's "drafting board" time!

I seriously doubt you will receive any satisfaction by going up to the JD parts counter and asking for a "ball valve" replacement scheme or kit for your tractor's fuel shut-off.

Keep in mind - when these tractors were in "their day", the folks at JD dealerships is where you found service management. Today - many decades later, YOU are the tractor's service manager. This is why - as restorers, we need all of the manuals we can find that apply to our tractor. THEY serve as the basis for OUR education and/or introduction to our tractor; and they keep us from "flying blind". Be Blessed! (PatB)

 

[Mike N Mo]

What PatB said below is true. It takes a little ingenuity and a couple of trips to the hardware store. I would get a generic sediment bowl or in-line filter, and an off-the shelf 1/4" ball valve installed between the sediment bowl and carb using the appropriate sized brass fittings. This involves plumbing rather than mechanics. Good luck, Mike

 

[DONMYEIL]

Pats right ,just remember if you remove the automatic shut off you have to watch the oil pressure because it could be fine one minute and banging rods the next if you are plowing or some other activity. I would not remove it on mine at all, in fact if I had a tractor with out one I would put one on. Ive fixed a few that run out of oil pressure and it aint pretty.

 

[John deere Ed]

Ok I now understand when you say ball valve. I was reading too much into your suggestion. I already have a shut off valve on on my bowl. Thanks.

 

[PopinJohn]

The automatic fuel shutoff sedimenter assembly in proper working order is the best, in my opinion. When rebuilding, use new parts and put in both diaphragms, the plunger seal, a new screen and gasket for the glass bowl, also any broken, missing, or corroded parts inside. I also mark the top and bottom housing so I get the fittings oriented correctly when I reassemble it.

 

[Mike Aylward]

I agree. There's not a thing wrong with those units if properly maintained like any other part of the tractor. Mike

 

[Mike N Mo]

PoppinJohn and Mike A, I still have the auto shut-off setup on my 60, and I do like it. It does seem like the intervals between rebuilds is getting shorter though. Just did it again about 2 months ago. Many on this site seem to think that todays gasoline is the culprit, or Deere has changed the diaphragm material. Either way they don't last as long. Just giving suitable alternatives. Mike

 

[Mike Aylward]

I understand what you are saying, Mike. I've put in several sets of these in tractors due to age and have yet to have to do any of them again. Not sure what the deal is. Mike

 

[Paul Hearsey]

Ed, I'm with those who say "keep the auto shut-off". A neighbour of mine was visiting just last week to see my Model 70 gas tractor project. He had never heard of these JD oil-pressure activated fuel shut-offs and wished he had one on his 1963 Fordson Dexta when it was running unattended some months ago. It was pumping water down at the river, lost its oil pressure (I'm not sure why) and seized. Not a pretty sight. Amazingly, he found a mechanic who repaired/rebuilt it and so it is back at work, but this is several thousand dollars later. I agree with PatB; spend the money on all the relevent manuals! And appreciate that fuel shut-off mechanism; a smart bit of engineering there. Paul

 

[John deere Ed]

ok guys I replaced all the gaskets and o rings put in new oil filter but still have gas in oil what should I try next?

 

[silverado]

if you have automatic shut off check oil level every time you start tractor the tractor may not even start as the tank will be out of gas and all in crankcase if it does start if not hydro locked you take the risk of taking the bearings out due to fuel dilution and ruining the rings etc ,,,,,,,3 of my neighbors have wrecked their engines on 730 gas 50 and 620,,,,,ethanol gas disolves the diaphrams and gas goes down the oil line in crankcase it will also cause the rubber washer on the plunger to stick shut and tractor can get no gas and not run also......i have never put ethanol gas in any of my tactors i have a 530 630 and 620 that still have the original diaphrams in and never had a problem i have bought tractors that had ethanol in they either got gas in the oil when the get delivered or they have failed shorty after i have had them here, you can still get non ethanol gas its cost a little more but consider what an oil change cost the hassle of rebuilding the fuel shutoff and also what it costs to rebuild an engine,