Gas tank varnish

BigTone

Member
The tractor had been sitting for 2 years
with what looks like 3 or 4 gallons of gas
in it. I've removed the lines, cleaned
the carb and rebuild soon. I don't want to
run any garbage through the carb so I'm
replacing the lines, adding a fuel filter,
and I'm going to remove the tank drain the
gas, clean the bowl. I want too get any
loose crap out and the varnish that I'm
sure it's in there. Is there a cleaner
to get the varnish out? I'm not ready to
red kote the tank yet, just trying to get
it running and let the filter hopefully
catch any rust. Thanks
 
In line fuel filters cause as many or more problem then they will ever fix. It the sediment bowl is set up correctly and as the screen it should have it will filter better then an in line filter will. As for varnish run it and it will clean it self just be sure to dump the sediment bowl when you see dirt/water etc in it. I have a D-17 that has a badly rusted tank and I have to dump the sediment bowl pretty often and it has been that way for 10 years and NO carb problem wit hit and it starts easy and work well and has ever since I pulled it out of a fence row
 
If that screen is so good why does the in line filters catch whats passed. Some of the fines will get thru the screen on the sediment bowland plug the see thru in-line.
 
To each there own but U have been payed hundreds of $$ to remove the in line filters because a guy could not make his tractor work for him. And NONE ever had problems with there carbs after I removed the in line filters. In line filters and tractors are a recipe for a fire to happen
 
You got to get a new cause to bash, fuel filters and Champion plugs have simply not been a problem for me and I have both on the same tractor. Before, occasionally a tiny speck of rust would get through the screen and stick to the needle or seat.
 
As I have said I throw them away and it has made me a lot of $$ to do so. Never yet to have a problem with fuel if the correct sediment bowl is on and as said my D-17 has a very rusty tank and I have run it that way for a decade and yet I have not had to open up the carb but the one time when I pulled it out of the fence row. As for champ plug keep them I 'll not waste my $$ on them
 
Take the sediment bowl off and plug with a piece of inner tube and a bolt or stick. Add vinegar to the desired level and let it sit for a few days, shake occasionally. Pour old junk liquid on bushes, they will die. Cheapest vinegar you can fine will work, done it several times.
 
Only one of my tractors has an inline filter. I put it there out of desperation. The SC Case was plugging the idle jet regularly. I checked the sediment screen over and over. The screen was perfect and it fit perfectly. A replacement screen was tried to no avail. The idle jet was still plugging, not regularly now, but it was plugging nonetheless. Finally put the inline filter in and the problem was solved. This happened a good 20 years ago. The inline is still there and works fine. The sediment bulbs on the rest of my tractors work just fine and will never be altered.
 

I am one of those who never had any use for an in-line filter. I even recommended getting rid of them, but now I am changing my tune. I know a few folks who got tired of fighting with those brand new, aftermarket sediment bowl assemblies. They always leak, or simply cannot be shut off.

The fix is to toss that sediment bowl in the trash, and install an elbow pipe fitting in the tank, with a ball valve, and then an in-line filter. If you get a filter designed for a gravity flow system, it will work and will not be a problem. I am considering doing the same to a couple of my Farmalls.
 

Sitting for two years should not be a big deal. I have equipment that sits from season to season and I don't drain the gas to put it back in service. Now 20 years is different - I put my cousins 8N back in service after sitting. There was no fuel in the tank, the metal fuel line and carburetor bowl was full of goo that would only flow after heating....that is varnish. It looked like Permatex #2 Form-A-gasket. Several gallons of fuel in the tank is a good sign - it means it has not completely evaporated.

Draining the fuel is good practice however, line replacement, tank cleaning and carburetor rebuilds should be based on need. I run an inline filter on my 8N since the tank is very rusty. At first the filter would plug after a few weeks. After several replacements the current filter has been in service for 5 + years. The inline filters typically will not run full - if you can not handle that use a non-see-through-metal filter.

Just my experience - others could be different.
 
I use muratic acid pour a gallon in the tank first remove sediment bowl and plug it then fill the tank with water let it sit for 24hrs pour it out then add a box of baking soda to neutralize the acid fill with water then rinse it out real good then spray the inside of the tank with WD40 or I use used motor oil to coat the inside of the tank it will rust real quick if you don't do this after using the baking soda.
 
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