Gasket question

[jd2cyl1943]

I was working on installing gaskets in my B today. One the original gaskets in good condition, I used Permatex make a gasket to insure a good seal. I got to wondering of I should do the same for new gaskets or if it'd be better to leave them alone? Also does anybody know how tight the bearing cup holder for the left side of the differential should be? The service manual says to "tighten down", but that isn't very specific. I'm just concerned about getting it too tight or not tight enough. Thanks.

 

[Janicholson]

Make a gasket might be OK for a used gasket if ti is used uniformly and in a very thin layer. On most new gaskets, including head gaskets with no instructions on the packaging, I use Copper Coat brand spray. again using light coatings twice on each side, then assembling before it has dried beyond the touch stage. I use HyTac brush on adhesive for one side of cork gaskets to assist assembly, then coat a thin layer of grease on the opposite side to allow disassembly. Cork gaskets get tightened until the sides of the gasket (all around) just begin to bulge outward. Follow torque recommendations on all other gaskets. Jim I have been at this for 65 years. Jim

 

[greenmech]

I was working on installing gaskets in my B today. One the original gaskets in good condition, I used Permatex make a gasket to insure a good seal. I got to wondering of I should do the same for new gaskets or if it'd be better to leave them alone? Also does anybody know how tight the bearing cup holder for the left side of the differential should be? The service manual says to "tighten down", but that isn't very specific. I'm just concerned about getting it too tight or not tight enough. Thanks.

On new gaskets I use anti-seize. Ron MN

 

[Tim PloughNman Daley]

On new gaskets I use anti-seize. Ron MN

ANTI-SEIZE IS FOR FASTENERS. Keeps nuts and bolts from
'freezing up', or seizing. Use sparingly.

Tim Daley (MI)

 

[560Dennis]

I would recommend checking with the manufacturer of the gasket how to proper install the gasket. Your leaning. Don’t guess ,you don’t want redos. Cost big money ,ask !
Felpro has technical recommendations on web , or call tech center.

 

[Fritz Maurer]

ANTI-SEIZE IS FOR FASTENERS. Keeps nuts and bolts from
'freezing up', or seizing. Use sparingly.

Tim Daley (MI)

Anti-seize is also for gaskets when it is desired to re-use the gasket. Weatherstrip adhesive on one side, anti-seize on the other. An example: re-torque after installation of cylinder head; insures removal of brand-new valve cover gasket without damage. Also can be used on any gasket where it is perceived the part may be removed in the future… keeps the gasket from tearing and half of it stuck to the vehicle upside down in some inaccessible position… when the whole gasket comes off it makes clean-up much easier.

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

Anti-seize is also for gaskets when it is desired to re-use the gasket. Weatherstrip adhesive on one side, anti-seize on the other. An example: re-torque after installation of cylinder head; insures removal of brand-new valve cover gasket without damage. Also can be used on any gasket where it is perceived the part may be removed in the future… keeps the gasket from tearing and half of it stuck to the vehicle upside down in some inaccessible position… when the whole gasket comes off it makes clean-up much easier.

Won't weatherstrip adhesive cause the gasket to stick, permanently, to the surface it's used on? If the goal is to be able to re-use the gasket, seems like anything with the term "adhesive" in its name is not the thing to use.

Mostly you want something to hold the gasket in place so you don't go insane trying to put things together. There are many "right" ways to do it. The only wrong way is if you use so much that it's squishing out everywhere, making a mess.

 

[Geo-TH,In]

I was working on installing gaskets in my B today. One the original gaskets in good condition, I used Permatex make a gasket to insure a good seal. I got to wondering of I should do the same for new gaskets or if it'd be better to leave them alone? Also does anybody know how tight the bearing cup holder for the left side of the differential should be? The service manual says to "tighten down", but that isn't very specific. I'm just concerned about getting it too tight or not tight enough. Thanks.

I know a man, who back in the 60s, bought a 4 cylinder Ford. I think it was a pinto or something like a pinto. It had a Cast iron block and aluminum heads.
Under warranty Ford installed 2 head gaskets. He installed a new Felpro head gasket and coated it with clear silicone.
The head gasket never leaked. This was before there was RTV silicone.
I don't see anything wrong with applying a very thin coat of silicone and let it cure for a few hours.
I made a gasket for my Farmall C, coated it with RTV. Let it cure and it worked just fine.

 

[Texasmark]

Years ago I always had problems with automatic transmission pan gaskets leakiing until I Permatexed the gasket to the pan but left the other side free to move rather than gluing both sides and never had a cork gasket installation without any glue work for me....and yes I torqued until the cork started to squeeze out. Copper coat on head gaskets as Jim stated is a must for me too.

 

[Fritz Maurer]

Won't weatherstrip adhesive cause the gasket to stick, permanently, to the surface it's used on? If the goal is to be able to re-use the gasket, seems like anything with the term "adhesive" in its name is not the thing to use.

Mostly you want something to hold the gasket in place so you don't go insane trying to put things together. There are many "right" ways to do it. The only wrong way is if you use so much that it's squishing out everywhere, making a mess.

You only put the adhesive on one side of the gasket…preferably on the movable part…never seize on the other side to prevent the gasket from vulcanizing (or any other heat-setting term) to the head .

 

[Fixingfarmer]

So this website has a standard torque chart find yourself one of those to reference also most service manuals have standard/metric you won’t have to worry about metric on your tractor. I agree with Jim on the copper coat for head gasket. Pretty much all other gaskets on a 2 cylinder or anything else for that matter I use aviation gasket maker. It’s easier to remove later I took a picture of the 2 products I use the most it will also do a metal to metal surface. The exception is the carb gasket leave that dry just have a couple fresh ones around. So MR5923 is not called aviation gasket maker anymore but if you look at the bottom it references the old name. Sorry it’s all nasty you can tell I use it often. You have to let it set for awhile before playing with it and it runs a bit more than hy tac when applying but you have a chance of getting it off again and it seals really well.

 

[shaun wallace]

I have seen and used Indian Head and Tabers Products gasket dressing. Didnt know loctite had it.

 

[Butch(OH)]

Anti-seize is also for gaskets when it is desired to re-use the gasket. Weatherstrip adhesive on one side, anti-seize on the other. An example: re-torque after installation of cylinder head; insures removal of brand-new valve cover gasket without damage. Also can be used on any gasket where it is perceived the part may be removed in the future… keeps the gasket from tearing and half of it stuck to the vehicle upside down in some inaccessible position… when the whole gasket comes off it makes clean-up much easier.

Exactly. On the old slow speed diesels I specialize in I have been brushing a thin coating of neverseise on both sides of the head gaskets for 25 years. Currently doing 63rd rebuild in the shop , never a problem. That allows the owners to remove the head at the required decoking intervals without ruining the gasket. As for sealing other gaskets there is no fits all solution. It depends on the condition of the surfaces, what pressure and what fluid, the gasket type and thickness. There is no fits all solution.

 

[MSD]

I was working on installing gaskets in my B today. One the original gaskets in good condition, I used Permatex make a gasket to insure a good seal. I got to wondering of I should do the same for new gaskets or if it'd be better to leave them alone? Also does anybody know how tight the bearing cup holder for the left side of the differential should be? The service manual says to "tighten down", but that isn't very specific. I'm just concerned about getting it too tight or not tight enough. Thanks.

You should shim and tighten till you have 1 thousands clearance on the differential. I always put a light coat of Right Stuff gasket maker on both sides of any gasket except head gaskets.

 

[used red MN]

On new gaskets I use anti-seize. Ron MN

I personally know Ron and I am sure he has done a lot of successful repairs over the years using his methods. I would like to point out that anti-seize compounds actually contain finely ground metal particles most commonly aluminum and copper. Due to this I would not recommend using anti-seize as a treatment for gasket surfaces where the are sealing in the engine oil. In another post by jd2cyl he showed some rocker arm studs lathered with anti-seize compound and I replied there with this same warning. I understand the suggested use on the gaskets is probably applied rather sparingly. It would be interesting to see if after an engine was assembled in this manner and ran through its break-in period if an analysis of the engine oil would show if any of the metals from the ant-seize made it into the oil in any significant quantity. I would think that wheel bearing grease may give nearly the same result as the anti-seize as far as keeping gaskets from sticking.
I am not necessarily appalled as some are by the use of “form a gasket” or RTV but I do think it should be applied sparingly. I will say that RTV does tend to allow a gasket to squeeze or smash out easier than adhesive types of gasket compounds.

 

[620 John]

On just about every gasket on two cylinders I work on I use Permatex aviation form a gasket. It's a brush on type that does a better job filling in rust pits and uneven surfaces. I even use it on radiator hoses because the pipes are usually really pitted. Head gasket I used copper coat and have had good luck so far. Next time however I might use Permatex high tack in a spray can for the head gasket because I had bad results with copper coat on a couple different gaskets. Exhaust manifold with pitted surface and studs going into the water jacket I used Permatex ultra copper silicone.

Differential bearing cover I don't remember what size those are?? I think they were 1/2"?? If so then usually they're grade 5 which on a general torque chart get torqued to 85 ft lbs. When I get home I can post a torque chart from one of the older service manuals. If the bolts don't feel right when you tighten them I recommend replacing them because the old hardware is often soft and can begin to stretch.

 

[Fixingfarmer]

They renamed it unfortunately I couldn’t find the last can it says “formerly known as aviation gasket maker” in small letters

 

[Jim.ME]

They renamed it unfortunately I couldn’t find the last can it says “formerly known as aviation gasket maker” in small letters

Permatex Aviation-Form-a-Gasket #3 is still an available product. The product in you picture is Loctite Gasket Dressing, which is the same as the Permatex product. Loctite owned Permatex for about 30 years. I expect the current labelling of the Loctite Gasket Dressing is due to Permatex having the rights to the Aviation-Form-a-Gasket name when the two companies separated. Many products of the two use similar part numbers and names for like products due to that relationship.

 

[J.Wondergem]

On regular gaskets like water pump and others, i just use grease gun grease. Lets them made a good set. I was told to do that back in the early 60's.

 

[Fixingfarmer]

Permatex Aviation-Form-a-Gasket #3 is still an available product. The product in you picture is Loctite Gasket Dressing, which is the same as the Permatex product. Loctite owned Permatex for about 30 years. I expect the current labelling of the Loctite Gasket Dressing is due to Permatex having the rights to the Aviation-Form-a-Gasket name when the two companies separated. Many products of the two use similar part numbers and names for like products due to that relationship.

Ah that makes sense I knew the permatex rep that came to work one time to give a talk on what color loctite to use someone asked if they owned loctite and it was kind of a curt no and the boss was surprised as that had previously been the case. Interesting that fills in a few gaps. The conversation was probably 10 years ago now and I hadn’t cared much about the politics back then