J Hamilton

Well-known Member
Would this oil be good to use in the letter series transmission/rear end? I know this is fairly thick oil, it is an ISO VG 220. And these tractors are not used in cold temps, mainly temps between about 70-100F
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Is the 220 the weight of the oil like 80/90 is the weight of the oil used in DC rear ends? Seems to me it would be quite heavy...and more expensive. But you probably lucked out and stumbled into some free oil, lol!
Yes I did, 30 gallons of it for free! New in sealed buckets. They switched to a food grade oil at work and said this needs to go away. Lol
 
ISO 220 is the same as 90 weight gear oil.
A few years back they came out with this ISO stuff amongst many other things similar.
ISO = international standards or something like that.
I think that happened about the time they changed MSDS sheets to the new SDS.
 
ISO 220 is the same as 90 weight gear oil.
A few years back they came out with this ISO stuff amongst many other things similar.
ISO = international standards or something like that.
I think that happened about the time they changed MSDS sheets to the new SDS.
Perfect! I thought it might have been a 220 weight oil or something. But sounds like this will be just fine. Thanks 👍
 
In your research ,What anti foaming quality does it have? CM
Mobil says "resistance to foaming and emulsion formation".
a lot of technical stuff is Greek to me.
I'll see if I can post a link to the Mobil info.

 
Perhaps oddly to some, the SAE viscosity grading system is the one that is completely contrived, with no rhyme nor reason to their numbering. The ISO system has been around a LOT longer than some might believe, and is a close kin to the SSU system used in U.S. industries other than motive power for a handful of decades.

Viscosity.gif


If you look in the background, you might get a hint at what I've found is effective, if not a little bit costly.

1943CaseVAIStarted.jpg
 
Has anyone heard about not using GL5 rated gear oils in vintage gearboxes? I just read on another forum to only use GL4 to avoid damage to brass components..
 
Thanks. I read that in a VW bug forum. I just put GL5 in my '59 F 350 and am now bringing back to life ny Case 540. I guess I'll need it for the Case as well.
 
Be careful about the characterization of materials. Most gear cases use very little brass, but lots of bronze. There is a BIG difference in strength and reactivity.

Also, the presence of other compounds will skew the ionic reactivity of materials drastically. Stating that a product will damage another product is like the old wives' tale about storing a lead/acid battery on a concrete floor. I used to know people who actually believed that.
 
Fifty year old manuals just say gear oil. It is hard to know what to use. You made me laugh about the battery. I remember people insisting that you must put a board between batteries and cement floor.
 
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