Gear oil

[Old560]

Just purchased a used Troy built rear tine tiller model number 12057. I’m about to change all the fluids in it from searching online the manual says to use either standard 90 weight or standard 140 weight gear oil in the transmission and gearbox. That’s a pretty big difference between the two. I just think the 90 weight will be better than something as thick is 140 weight. I don’t know why they recommend two different oils unless the 90 weight is just for colder weather. Now I’m just starting to think out loud. What you all think.

 

[Dave BN]

They now make multi grade gear lube. Some thing like 85W-130 might be a good choice.
Dave

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

I think some sociopath foresaw the creation of Internet forums and made the recommendation with no explanation just so we'd argue over it.

Seriously they didn't explain why, because it doesn't matter. Flip a coin. Use what you have on hand. Use what's cheaper. Use what's more expensive. Use whichever one has the prettier bottle. It doesn't matter.

When was the last time you rototilled in the dead of winter?

 

[Texasmark]

I lost the front steering pivotal bearings on a new, low hour, 65 hp 4wd tractor with a FEL in rough terrain with TDH fluid fill that came with the tractor and was recommended in the operator's manual. After the repair, I replaced it with 140W gear oil. That was in about 2009 with a new 2007 tractor. Today is 2025, lots of hours on the machine, no front end problems, same farm.

Fast forward.....2016, new 25 HP 4wd FEL tractor of the same brand. Owner's manual which is for all tractors, not covering the FEL (separate manual since its optional equipment) specifies 90W gear oil. Additionally the cap of the front gearbox fill plug/dipstick has molded into it......90W. Think there's a message here?

I agree that seldom would you till your garden in the dead of winter.....so living in TX. the heaviest oil is an easy guess and if it matters, in colder climates, multi-viscosity 140W would be my choice.

 

[Richard Nixon]

I think some sociopath foresaw the creation of Internet forums and made the recommendation with no explanation just so we'd argue over it.

Seriously they didn't explain why, because it doesn't matter. Flip a coin. Use what you have on hand. Use what's cheaper. Use what's more expensive. Use whichever one has the prettier bottle. It doesn't matter.

When was the last time you rototilled in the dead of winter?

I have used mine in the dead of winter many times although not for roto tilling. I have a dozer blade attachment that works quite well in snow.

 

[scootergmc]

Just purchased a used Troy built rear tine tiller model number 12057. I’m about to change all the fluids in it from searching online the manual says to use either standard 90 weight or standard 140 weight gear oil in the transmission and gearbox. That’s a pretty big difference between the two. I just think the 90 weight will be better than something as thick is 140 weight. I don’t know why they recommend two different oils unless the 90 weight is just for colder weather. Now I’m just starting to think out loud. What you all think.

I vote for using whatever's cheapest at wherever you like to buy oil.

 

[buickanddeere]

Here yah go

 

[scootergmc]

Here yah go

Amsoil. It will turn that rototiller into a Caterpillar D11.

 

[Absent Minded Farmer]

The 90W is suggested for cold use i.e. snow blade. Always ran 140W in our Troy Bilt as it was just a tiller. The newer BCS gets 80-90W.

Mike

 

[Bob Bancroft]

Just purchased a used Troy built rear tine tiller model number 12057. I’m about to change all the fluids in it from searching online the manual says to use either standard 90 weight or standard 140 weight gear oil in the transmission and gearbox. That’s a pretty big difference between the two. I just think the 90 weight will be better than something as thick is 140 weight. I don’t know why they recommend two different oils unless the 90 weight is just for colder weather. Now I’m just starting to think out loud. What you all think.

And I wouldn't be afraid to put 00, or "corn head grease" in it!

 

[TomIn]

Just purchased a used Troy built rear tine tiller model number 12057. I’m about to change all the fluids in it from searching online the manual says to use either standard 90 weight or standard 140 weight gear oil in the transmission and gearbox. That’s a pretty big difference between the two. I just think the 90 weight will be better than something as thick is 140 weight. I don’t know why they recommend two different oils unless the 90 weight is just for colder weather. Now I’m just starting to think out loud. What you all think.

As best I can tell, your tiller dates back to the days when Gardenway made the tiller. At that time, the transmissions contained a brass (or bronze) gear that many people feared would be damaged unless a gear oil with an API rating of GL-4 was used. Some people still believe this while others don't.

I ran across this article which may or may not give good advice.

Troybilt

 

[wore out]

As best I can tell, your tiller dates back to the days when Gardenway made the tiller. At that time, the transmissions contained a brass (or bronze) gear that many people feared would be damaged unless a gear oil with an API rating of GL-4 was used. Some people still believe this while others don't.

I ran across this article which may or may not give good advice.

Troybilt

Yes, I think "yellow metal safe" gear oil would be a good idea as the "worm wheel" is all but certainly brass.

 

[Case/Chev]

John Deere corn head grease would be my preferred lube. We use it in snowblower, tiller and even bush hog gearboxes. Great stuff

 

[37 chief]

Just purchased a used Troy built rear tine tiller model number 12057. I’m about to change all the fluids in it from searching online the manual says to use either standard 90 weight or standard 140 weight gear oil in the transmission and gearbox. That’s a pretty big difference between the two. I just think the 90 weight will be better than something as thick is 140 weight. I don’t know why they recommend two different oils unless the 90 weight is just for colder weather. Now I’m just starting to think out loud. What you all think.

I have an old horse troy built. I use 85-140. Seams to be doing good, the last 20 years I have owned it.
stan

 

[Fixingfarmer]

Amsoil. It will turn that rototiller into a Caterpillar D11.

While moms had lasted 50 years I would think a 5 gallon pail should be enough for 500 years and be more than what was originally paid for it.

A quart or 2 should do we drained it once in the 2000s. I can’t remember the capacity

Those little things are bullet proof a d11 is a closer comparison than one would think

 

[Watthour]

The two I've rebuilt were due to worm wheel and axle bearing wear. These also are notorious leakers from the axle shafts. I've even installed double lip seals in the axle bores, but they still leak after a little use because of unavoidable bearing wear and ultimate lash. Although I am usually an advocate of synthetic lubricants (and I buy SHC by the 5G pail) I would avoid any real (PAO) synthetics in the Troy-Bilt gearboxes just for that reason.

 

[Mcrafty1]

They may mean 85w-140 which is a synthetic equivalent of 90w dino oil. I would think the straight 90w would be fine, it's not like you'll be tilling much ground when its frozen so a lower flow point wouldn't enter the equation.