Gear selector issue

[Kuch1982]

IH 706, seems the shifter isn't lined up with the gear markings on the console. Ex: trying to put in reverse, you basically have to slam it down to the bottom of console, sometimes it won't even find reverse. Is there a linkage adjustment somewhere? Shifts fine otherwise, but seems it's not lined up. Worked well before, just started acting up

 

[the tractior vet]

IH 706, seems the shifter isn't lined up with the gear markings on the console. Ex: trying to put in reverse, you basically have to slam it down to the bottom of console, sometimes it won't even find reverse. Is there a linkage adjustment somewhere? Shifts fine otherwise, but seems it's not lined up. Worked well before, just started acting up

YEp , so now you have a problem . When this happens it means everything from the shifter down to the rev. shifting fork has seen way more field testing and in other word plum slap wore out . SOOOOOO to fix the issue ya start at the top and fix , replace everything that is LOOSE , then ya move down to the linkage and replace the headed pins with OEM pins , next it is pull the floor plate and the side cover behind the left step the one with the clipped corner , ( now this plate can be removed with little fluid loss IF the trans fluid level is at the full mark on the dip stick and you will only loose about a gallon , if you are above full get a five gallon bucket ready.) NOW if this tractor has the side mount hyd couplers and four hoses over top of the range trans shift cover they have to go and are a pain to remove if you do not have angle wrenches . Now not knowing if this tractor has been upgraded to the 86 series park lock when you go to remove the park lock linkage make sure you have the rear tires blocked so the tractor does not roll and ya place a 1/2x13 NUT under the park lock lever on top of the shift cover to HOLD it up . unhook the shifter rod then the 3/8ths bolts and get a stiff blade putty knife and drive it between the cover and the case to break the gskt . Them puppys are stuck tight . and lift up the rev. shifter rod will come out of the rev. shifter fork with the cover , watch as it comes up as the tiny key may fall out of the shaft as it comes out of the rev. shifting fork . Once ya have the cover off is when ya really start looking for ware . The shifter arm going thru the cover MUST FIT SNUG , if it wobbles around then the cover needs either fixed or replaced , ( me i have a machinest here that repairs the cover in and hour way cheaper then a new cover. The shifter arm needs replaced and a new O/Ring installed . Next look at the shifter cam and Detent cam for ware . There are a couple ROLLER bushing that maybe GONE and need replaced , look at the detent arm spring and roller , replace them . Next see how that tiny key fits in the reverse shifter rod , it it flops around in the slot ya need a new shaft and key . If i had a half gallon of Crown royal Black for every one i have fixed like new i would be happy . This is NOT a hard job and i rate it as a four beer job . Now how this all gets so wore out is because someone never kept up on the clutch , trans brake and dump valve adjustments like ya NEED to . With any tractor with a T/A adjustment of the Main clutch and linkage is vary important and when done right ya can shift that tractor with two fingers . I have covered this somany times over the years and it is in the archives . If this tractor has not been upgraded to the spring loaded park loc then NOW IS THE TIME . Every I H tractor has come thru my shop has been done , i will not let one leave with out it.

 

[Mrfred54]

Tractor vet pretty much covered the process. One thing I do is if you have front hydraulics and never intend on using them, I cut the lines on each side of the range cover. On the rear side of the cover them I smash them tight then braze. the line closed so you have no leaks when done. Like tractor vet said, they are a pain and can double the time on the job

 

[the tractior vet]

Tractor vet pretty much covered the process. One thing I do is if you have front hydraulics and never intend on using them, I cut the lines on each side of the range cover. On the rear side of the cover them I smash them tight then braze. the line closed so you have no leaks when done. Like tractor vet said, they are a pain and can double the time on the job

Welp this is where i stay ORG . if it came with it it stays with it . Some day ya may want to add a quick tach loader and at the price of hyd. lines today that could be a 400 dollar savings . Yea they are somewhat a pain , but i deal with it and have countless times fixing the god only knows how many i have fixed over the years . For awhile there i thought i had bought every 706 in Indiana and Ill. . Between me and my two jockey friend we hauler semi loads of them . I had no problem selling them to small dairy farms as they were great for a year round tractor on the spreader and grinder mixer . Fantastic for haybine and baler and a great planting tractor . for guys with a 120 acres they worked well as a main power . And at a price that did not break the bank . Old wore out 263 gassers got up graded to 291 . A new clutch and T/A beef up PTO's Hyd. systems checked and brought up to higher pressures maybe a new pump MCV's gone thru and what ever it took . redone lighting and spring loaded park loc.'s . Never had one come back with a issue .

 

[Mrfred54]

I only do it for customers that want to save a bit on labor. I have probably worked on as many 706-806 as you have. There is not one thing I haven't done on these ole girls, ( from end to end or head to toe ) whichever you prefer. First serious tractor job was Farmall H , that I bought, rings and pistons and valves back in 1965 when I was 11 years old

 

[the tractior vet]

I only do it for customers that want to save a bit on labor. I have probably worked on as many 706-806 as you have. There is not one thing I haven't done on these ole girls, ( from end to end or head to toe ) whichever you prefer. First serious tractor job was Farmall H , that I bought, rings and pistons and valves back in 1965 when I was 11 years old

Back in 1965 i was enjoying life with a good high paying job a fast car an drag racing . And a fox of a girl friend . Out of school and working for a vary large construction company as a full time employee with a company truck . I have a few years on ya . My first rebuild as the company owner said was to keep me out of trouble was to drag out of the weeds and tear down to bare frame a 1938 D 8 2 U Cat dozer the first new Cat he bought this was my winter project in the shop and he gave me from the 1st of Nov till mid April to have it up and running like NEW when he came back from his winter home in southern Cal. . first weekend in April my boss and i lit the fire and pulled it out the shop door a total reconstruction from the rad back to the power unit all three lights worked it charged the pony motor started off the starter and ran like a swiss watch even the org seat was resprung and apolstered in the org canvas new knobs on steering clutch throttle and gear shift . blade refaced new cutting edges a corner bit new cable blade trunions rebuilt and tight . new paint and decals and parked in the lawn next to the offices on a U S highway so the old man could see as he came into the shop . It was exciting powering the big sprocket nuts off and back on usen the engine power and a 100 ton portapower to pull them off , just make sure your standing way back . BUT most times someone has to be the one swing a sledge hammer when they don't just pop off when they do let go things go flying . I did what ever working there i ran equipment , dove one of the low boys when needed , twisted wrenches , welded even set charges when we needed to blast rock . There were seven of us that were full timers that did everything that were not part of the shop crew . In the main shop we had mechanic's ,welders machinists, a fab shop , even a complete automotive machine shop less a crank balancer . Myself , my boss and one other we did a lot of in field repairs and the company set up the tools My boss and i had all Mac tools and OTC stuff my truck was set up in 1963 . This was back before the days of fancy service trucks , mine had a large PTO driven air compressor that ya could run two 90# jack hammers off of . i carried a 150 gallon of diesel oil grease and hyd. oil i had a Hobart 250 PTo Driven D C welder and torches and a new OTC portable track pin press . For a service crane we had options , It could be a Bucyrus Eire 10 B or a T D 9 I H crawler with a center mount crane boom OR when it came to moving the BIG cranes it might be a Lima 44 or Bucyrus Eire B 75 . The BIG cranes required major tear down and a gaggle of semi's to move . Those deals were a all hands on deck

 

[Mrfred54]

Ya, you have been around the block a time or two, probably more. I used to run a service truck also, in northern lower Michigan and the upper peninsula, for industrial equipment dealer, komatso, hitachi, jcb, and jd. Lots of days never made it home at night. This job was after working for IH dealership for 20 years. It closed after the merger. Guess I’m not the oldest one here, ha,ha. Nice chatting with you sir