Generator to alternator conversion

[super99]

The generator on the new to me super 88 diesel doesn't work, I tried to polarize it but no sparks. It has 2 wires from the regulator, one runs to the amp guage, haven't traced the other one yet. The starter is foot operated, and the wiring needs replaced. It has a light switch and nothing else electric on it. Thinking about changing to a 1 wire alternator, Basically just need to charge the battery. Can I just run a wire to amp guage and then to the battery?

 

[old]

The generator on the new to me super 88 diesel doesn't work, I tried to polarize it but no sparks. It has 2 wires from the regulator, one runs to the amp guage, haven't traced the other one yet. The starter is foot operated, and the wiring needs replaced. It has a light switch and nothing else electric on it. Thinking about changing to a 1 wire alternator, Basically just need to charge the battery. Can I just run a wire to amp guage and then to the battery?

If I where you I would do a 3 wire it will cause less problems and work better. To bad your not down here where I am I can pretty much do that almost in my sleep

 

[4play]

If the amp gauge works, it should have a wire going to B+ (battery side), The other terminal of the amp gauge should supply power to the rest of the tractor (tractor side). I'm not trying to argue which is better, but if you need to rewire it, and you aren't particular to amp gauges, just use a volt gauge. A one wire alternator just needs to go directly to the battery, or the amp gauge (tractor side) like the generator was. IMO one or the other, I would take a volt gauge, if you are picky enough to want an ammeter, you really should already have a volt gauge too.

Upgrading the charging system might overload at least the amp gauge, adding electrical loads could make it worse. What is the OEM gauge rated at, that number is maximum amount the gauge can handle, most tractors are what 20-40amp? It was odd to see a generator keep up with a 20 amp load on a tractor, but a 10si definitely will plus it might be 90-100 amps or at least 50.

 

[Geo-TH,In]

The generator on the new to me super 88 diesel doesn't work, I tried to polarize it but no sparks. It has 2 wires from the regulator, one runs to the amp guage, haven't traced the other one yet. The starter is foot operated, and the wiring needs replaced. It has a light switch and nothing else electric on it. Thinking about changing to a 1 wire alternator, Basically just need to charge the battery. Can I just run a wire to amp guage and then to the battery?

99
Look for a wire on the voltage regulator that is labeled load.
That should power your lights.
If my memory is correct, another wire goes between the VR and the Fields on the generator.

 

[rvirgil_KS]

If the amp gauge works, it should have a wire going to B+ (battery side), The other terminal of the amp gauge should supply power to the rest of the tractor (tractor side). I'm not trying to argue which is better, but if you need to rewire it, and you aren't particular to amp gauges, just use a volt gauge. A one wire alternator just needs to go directly to the battery, or the amp gauge (tractor side) like the generator was. IMO one or the other, I would take a volt gauge, if you are picky enough to want an ammeter, you really should already have a volt gauge too.

Upgrading the charging system might overload at least the amp gauge, adding electrical loads could make it worse. What is the OEM gauge rated at, that number is maximum amount the gauge can handle, most tractors are what 20-40amp? It was odd to see a generator keep up with a 20 amp load on a tractor, but a 10si definitely will plus it might be 90-100 amps or at least 50.

"Upgrading the charging system might overload at least the amp gauge, adding electrical loads could make it worse. What is the OEM gauge rated at, that number is maximum amount the gauge can handle, most tractors are what 20-40amp? It was odd to see a generator keep up with a 20 amp load on a tractor, but a 10si definitely will plus it might be 90-100 amps or at least 50."

If wired correctly all operating loads off of the alternator are ahead of the amp gauge. Only current through amp gauge should be charge/discharge current in/out of battery. I have several tractors with alternators still operating on original amp gauges.

If alternator is operating properly, it will only output current demanded by the loads. Full rated output would only happen with maximum load and maximum full rated RPM