"Generic" Parts

[ScottNC]

Found the water pump on my DB885 is about to send the fan through the radiator while doing an end-of-season inspection, general clean-up and service. The correct single groove pulley version doesn't look to be available here, although Parts ASAP shows one. Ebay, Amazon, Cross Creek, Reliable, etc. all have one. The price ranges from ~$80 to nearly $300 for new. "Generic" seems to be the only source and not a one has a customer review. I try not to shop price only but when the exact same picture is used by a multiple vendors with a broad range in price . . . I gotta wonder if the the mark up is the only difference, not the part. Same one year warranty too. If someone has a trustworthy favorite go-to source for parts for old tractors, I'm all ears. Might check into letting the local NAPA round one up so when it fails I don't have to quibble with a faceless internet vendor.

 

[rrlund]

I needed one for my 990 (Oliver 600) a year and a half ago. I have no idea who made it, but I got it from All States. The only thing wrong was my own mistake. I went by serial number. There was a 5 bolt and a 6 bolt. I ordered a 5 because I thought that's what the serial number called for. When I took the old one off to put the new one on, I needed a six. Once I got it on, the fit was good and no complaints. I don't remember the price, but I don't think it was overly expensive.

 

[Ericp351]

Ain't normally a big deal to move a pully, let alone just rebuild your original pump.

 

[ScottNC]

I'm game. Worked in a parts store in the 70's that had an engine machine shop in the back. They rebuilt odd-ball water pumps when we couldn't find a new or rebuilt. Never watched or tried one myself. Messick's had the seals/bearings part numbers but not the parts . . . is there a source for that kind of stuff you know of?

 

[Jim.ME]

I'm game. Worked in a parts store in the 70's that had an engine machine shop in the back. They rebuilt odd-ball water pumps when we couldn't find a new or rebuilt. Never watched or tried one myself. Messick's had the seals/bearings part numbers but not the parts . . . is there a source for that kind of stuff you know of?

If you are going to try rebuilding your water pump, do you have a press and a good assortment of blocking materials to use with it?

 

[ScottNC]

I do. My guess is the two key items are, press it apart in the correct direction and not break the cast housing?

 

[Ericp351]

Get clearance or depth to seal and pully position correct.

 

[SkipperII]

I do. My guess is the two key items are, press it apart in the correct direction and not break the cast housing?

Or the impeller.

 

[ScottNC]

Watched a YouTube water pump tutorial . . . everything is on YouTube. Even found a water pump guy who (I think) will sell parts/kit.

 

[ScottNC]

Bumping this in the hope someone knows a reliable source for water pump parts. I have tried contacting two found online - both by at least two emails and by phone late last month - neither have replied. Time to make a move to get the tractor out of my basement and back in the shed so I ordered a "new" water pump from Cross Creek via Amazon. If parts can be obtained I'd still like to give rebuilding the old one a try.

 

[rrlund]

Bumping this in the hope someone knows a reliable source for water pump parts. I have tried contacting two found online - both by at least two emails and by phone late last month - neither have replied. Time to make a move to get the tractor out of my basement and back in the shed so I ordered a "new" water pump from Cross Creek via Amazon. If parts can be obtained I'd still like to give rebuilding the old one a try.

If you have a new one coming, take the win. I wouldn't order any rebuild parts for the old one until you see if you can get the old one apart without breaking a pulley or casting. If you get that far, then look for parts to put it back together. I've found more and more that you can't even get parts to rebuild a lot of them, which is probably a blessing. Buy a new one from All States and throw the old one on the iron pile has become my way of doing it.

 

[ScottNC]

So much for winning, water ran out from between the pump and head when filling the radiator. I knew there was about to be a problem when no difficulty was encountered installing the bolts due to compressing the O-ring. Two new pumps so far, neither is machined so that the rubber O-ring even touches the head never mind is loaded enough to seal. Made a fixture that clamps in a bench vise with roll pins in the attachment bolt holes to locate the pump so a comparison of the new pumps seal counter bore location to the original can be made. A magnetic dial indicator sits on the vise anvil, the fixture in the vise jaws. The original pump is set over the roll pins and the indicator is zeroed with .300" preload. The indicator stem is carefully drawn back so it clears and the new pumps are checked one at a time. The first pump purchased checks in .175" too low, the second .105" too low. The casting thickness above the bolt holes is quite a bit thinner than on the original. BTW, the old pump has the casting number K952426C, is this the factory installed pump from 1976?

Rant over, on to the next supplier . . . and UPS.

 

[Jim.ME]

So much for winning, water ran out from between the pump and head when filling the radiator. I knew there was about to be a problem when no difficulty was encountered installing the bolts due to compressing the O-ring. Two new pumps so far, neither is machined so that the rubber O-ring even touches the head never mind is loaded enough to seal. Made a fixture that clamps in a bench vise with roll pins in the attachment bolt holes to locate the pump so a comparison of the new pumps seal counter bore location to the original can be made. A magnetic dial indicator sits on the vise anvil, the fixture in the vise jaws. The original pump is set over the roll pins and the indicator is zeroed with .300" preload. The indicator stem is carefully drawn back so it clears and the new pumps are checked one at a time. The first pump purchased checks in .175" too low, the second .105" too low. The casting thickness above the bolt holes is quite a bit thinner than on the original. BTW, the old pump has the casting number K952426C, is this the factory installed pump from 1976?

Rant over, on to the next supplier . . . and UPS.

You can check with this outfit for a pump, parts, or to have yours rebuilt. I've gotten a couple older pumps from them.

AG Rebuilders

 

[ScottNC]

Emailed AG Friday then called called them this morning. Nothing so far other than a recording stating how many weeks out they are. Hope I hear from them today. Found another online source - it's too cheap; Tractorwaterpro, $44 and change or less than half price to 30% of what I've encountered so far. Hmmm. No phone number, no address. The picture is not the same one all sources to date use. No mention if new, or reman. Sketchy.

Think I'll go deer hunting.

 

[rrlund]

Emailed AG Friday then called called them this morning. Nothing so far other than a recording stating how many weeks out they are. Hope I hear from them today. Found another online source - it's too cheap; Tractorwaterpro, $44 and change or less than half price to 30% of what I've encountered so far. Hmmm. No phone number, no address. The picture is not the same one all sources to date use. No mention if new, or reman. Sketchy.

Think I'll go deer hunting.

You'll shoot your eye out.

 

[ScottNC]

Ran across a name unfamiliar to me while looking for a the water pump bypass O-ring that cost less than $20. You Oliver guys may know him, Rick Stair in Ohio (Rick's AgParts)? He has a non-India made water pump that is headed my way today. Fingers crossed.

No deer for me. Eyes intact.

 

[rrlund]

Rick's a good guy to deal with. He goes out of his way by a mile to find parts for my 1365.