Geo Tracker

scotc

Well-known Member
Got a problem with it, the battery's not charging. Dropped a new battery and alternator in it last summer and it will start a few times, then nothing, completely dead. Charge the battery and off you go a few more times.

I got it running today. I have battery voltage (tested while jump-starting) at the lug on the back of the alternator. Didn't take the time to check voltage at the other plug, but I have no magnetic field at the back of the alternator as well, so I know the alternator isn't working, just don't know why.

Any ideas, besides "buy a manual"?
 
I took my Sidekick alternator to a rebuilder and he tested it, the regulator was gone. He replaced it with a used one that he had and charged me 5$. Solved my problem.

Now I just can't get it to fire up after it sat a year waiting for me to fix the alt.
 
I think there is a fuse for the charge circuit, it has been awhile since I messed with a Tracker.
 
What year. Over the years they changed a good many things on them. One big problem with them is they stuck the wiring harness under the manifold close to the block and that in turn caused a short in them. How do I know well it cost me $400 in a ECP rebuild that did not fix the problem due to burned wires and that was a 1991
 
My most reliable Suzuki Sidekick/Geo Tracker source told me when I first bought one to slide some plastic split loom over the outside of the wires running under the manifold to protect them from rubbing through the insulation. Its hard to do, involves mirrors and lights, but so far I haven't had a failure there. IDK if its because or in spite of the measures I took.
 
When that happened to me I just splices the ignition wire which is the one that was bad and blowing the ignition fuse and then moved the wiring out from the engine so it could not get as hot or rub and never had any more problems with the wiring. I did a number of years later have a timing belt go out and then in turn caused it to loose a cylinder or 2 due to a bent valve or hole in a piston. It was a good little SUV and built like a tank. I know because I ran into mine with a 10 ton road roller when it engine on the roller died and I lost steering but the tracker stop it
 
You can download a manual online. Think it cost $5.00 for it, and it wasn't a Haynes either. On my Sidekick, I haven't had that problem, but about every other one.
 
I owned Geo Tracker with the 16valve motor. Owners manual said it was proprieitary train and belt should be replaced at 80k miles. I did that and took it to 125 before selling it. And no problems just wanted a big guzzler Tahoe as I drive less thn 5000 miles a year. Got rid of it and a Dorf truck.
 
I curious if you ever drove your Tracker in the winter? I've got three of them and all are the short two-door models. Great in the woods and fields in summer. Absolute death-traps on hilly roads in ice and snow. They spin around like skates.

I suspect too light, too short, and tires too big.
But - other then that -greatest little SUV ever made.
 
I agree with you about the 2dr. Try one of the 4dr's, you will be pleasantly surprised!! They even have lighter steering that allows you to make faster corrections if needed.
 
I want to say it's a 96. Should be self-regulating, or computer-regulated. I can't find a regulator where I was told I should find one. There is a 2-wire connector on back, I was unable to get it pulled to check for voltage at either wire in it.

It did have an alarm on it at one time. It's all there but the fuse is pulled and the wire is unhooked form the battery. If you jump the fuse holder it blares a horn over a PA speaker.

It's a 2-door 4x4. Steering is pretty light in it. And yes, it does like to swap ends. I was warned about it while I was driving it when my Cummins gelled up winter before last, and what do you know, I end up driving down through the ditch because I got caught in some mud with it that same day. Being so narrow it doesn't fit well in ruts left by anything else. I'd be tempted to buy it off the boss if I knew it was a simple fix.
 
They are all internally regulated, even my samurais are. The leads have to be unsoldered before the case is split or it rips the circuit board apart.
 
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