Germanic 8a adjustment

[John1010c]

 

[John1010c]

The video is showing what is happening when I push handle forward and it stops short of full release. I'll make the adjustments you mentioned earlier in the morning.

 

[Jim.ME]

The video is showing what is happening when I push handle forward and it stops short of full release. I'll make the adjustments you mentioned earlier in the morning.

Your video shows the brake slave cylinder traveling as it should to release the brake, The band adjustment may need to the changed to get it to lock released for free spool. The control lever "locks" in place by the actuator rod for the master cylinder going over center so the slave cylinder travel need to allow enough fluid out of the master cylinder to let the master reach that point.

The question you might ask the vendor you got the master cylinders from is if the cylinder stroke is correct to let the lever lock forward in the brake free spool position.

 

[JOCCO]

No problem, I've gotten twisted up a couple times during this due to the way he wrote, and I interpreted something. It happens with no one at fault as people can have the same words register differently in context and meaning when they read something.

I am thinking the new master cylinder sections he put on the controller are working ok. He installed new linings/bands for the brake and clutch. He said the drum surfaces were not turned. He has reported not being able to pass a feeler strip completely around the clutch band, the full depth of the clutch band. I am leaning towards a tapered and possibly out of round clutch surface in the drum. He could have .010 clearance between the drum and lining at the mouth of the drum and be fully in contact deeper inside the drum surface, which could drag the drum through the brake, without engaging the controller. Another possibility is the band is sprung from handling. Comparison of the wear on the old clutch band linings might give a clue. Your thoughts are welcome on what I am thinking the problem is here.

100% agree

 

[JOCCO]

John do as Jim says try to back the brake off if you can and check clutch band clearance. It may have to be "seated in" under tension as he said. The issue with winch parts we had, there was a lot of it being made overseas cheaply and did not quite fit without modification.

 

[John1010c]

Ok gentlemen, I backed off the brake tensioner about 5 turns and got the lever to lock into the free spool position smoothly. I'm going to start readjusting the clutch bands to get the spool to loosen up.

 

[John1010c]

Quick update to what I just posted. Before I loosen any of the clutch band screws I decided to stick a rod into the hole in the drum where the cable terminates and see i I could move the drum. ( I tried pulling the rope but it was too tight ). It moved fairly easy with the rod. Should I hold off on messing with the clutch band adjustment and see how it works now ?

 

[Jim.ME]

You can try it, but I think you will find the clutch will drag enough to turn the drum in the wind in direction when the controller is locked in free spool. Ideally if the linings are seated and adjustments are right, if you had several wraps of rope around the drum it would pull off easily with the winch in free spool.

It is always best to take the PTO out of gear when you are off the crawler, pulling cable off, and making up a hitch. It is a fine line with the clutch clearance and it not dragging.

Be careful with trying to use a bar or rope to hold the drum with the engine running. I wouldn't use a bar or anything solid. If you use a rope or cable don't wrap it around a hand or limb, to avoid getting sucked into the winch. A rope with a couple wraps around something it can slip around, with you holding the free end and ready to let go of the rope if the drum doesn't stop, may work. That would give you a bit more holding power than just a rope to the drum held by hand.

Once you get it to turn free use your feeler gauges to get an idea of tight spots. Once you do that, with the cable on the drum you could take it out where you can drag/winch a good load and try it. If there are limited high spots betwee the drum and lining they will wear down and you will be able totake up the adjustments some. You may need to do that a number of times.

 

[John1010c]

Jim and Jocco, I think we have a working winch now ! I loosened the clutch bands a little bit until I could barely slide the feeler strip all the way around and still pull the rope out with a little effort. Reinstalled the cover and line and gave it a try. My helper worked the control while I held the end of the rope. I couldn't hold it back. Then they pushed it forward to the lock position and I was able to pull the rope out. Occasionally I noticed the spool trying to jog in but it was only for a brief moment. I'm sure it'll need to seat like you mentioned a more adjustments to follow but at least now I have an idea on how to do it. The handle is much easier to throw also.

I'll follow up when I put the cable on and hook it to something that has a little weight to it and see how it pulls. I can't thank y'all enough !!!

John

 

[Jim.ME]

Jim and Jocco, I think we have a working winch now ! I loosened the clutch bands a little bit until I could barely slide the feeler strip all the way around and still pull the rope out with a little effort. Reinstalled the cover and line and gave it a try. My helper worked the control while I held the end of the rope. I couldn't hold it back. Then they pushed it forward to the lock position and I was able to pull the rope out. Occasionally I noticed the spool trying to jog in but it was only for a brief moment. I'm sure it'll need to seat like you mentioned a more adjustments to follow but at least now I have an idea on how to do it. The handle is much easier to throw also.

I'll follow up when I put the cable on and hook it to something that has a little weight to it and see how it pulls. I can't thank y'all enough !!!

John

You will find that as the clutch band wears in you will need to adjust it up a bit, regularly (same for the brake). You may find that after it is not used for a time you need to hook it to something, put it in free spool and drive away to shine things up again. A bit of rust between the bands and drums can cause dragging.

 

[JOCCO]

That is good news work on the brake band little by little, but it should not get to a point where you cannot pull it out easily. I was going to tell you what Jim alluded to don't let it set forever. Every month or so run it in and out. Big problems with them if they set. Like a log skidder only being used in the winter and setting till next winter. I've actually seen them have to come apart to be fixed just for that. And don't get to upset if the brake slips on a heavy load just keep working with it. For real heavy loads we used to set the clutch up and the brake because we needed pulling power and braking for heavy loads. I doubt this will apply to you.