Gift TEA 20

[Don Mac]

My neighbour gave me the old TEA 20 he had out the back. They had some trouble running it and it has been parked up for about 10 years, so I towed it home, and after cleaning the fuel filter and carburettor I started it up. Further work included removing the spiders from under the distributor cap, replacing #1 spark plug lead, adjusting and lubricating the throttle linkage and we had the old Fergie running real well.
The skeleton bones are great; the motor runs sweet, hydraulics work as the gearbox has no unkind noises. Just the body work that needs the dollars spent on it.
The serial number plate has one number we cannot read; it is 113781 or 115781 or 116781 or 118781, which dates the tractor either 1949 or 1950. Are there any casting numbers I can use to help date the tractor?
The plan is to get it running well, then put it in the shed with its British mates, a 54 Farmall SBM and a 58 Nuffield Universal 3 where it will become the old dame.
The transmission oil is white, probably never been changed I would guess and most likely has a lot of water in it. I thought it may have had a dairy farmer owner and he filled it with cream!

 

[Bill Brox]

Hi Don,

Can you please do us the favour of looking in front of the right side inspection cover and see what it say there. I am talking about the inspection cover where the dipstick for the rear end sits under the seat.

There is a casting number in front of the cover, like 5 11 50 which means 5th of november 1950.
By doing this we will be more sure of what year it is.
You see, the first 2 figures you suggest can both be a 1949, and the last 2 figures you suggest can both be a 1950.

Bill

 

[trac]

Kinda looks like the one that followed me home about 8 years ago. Great find

 

[Jeff-oh]

Here is a picture of the casting numbers the Bob(Aust) has taken and posted.

His is from, 1953, thus the 3 in the last position.

If you need some tips on cleaning out the transmission oil let me us know, though it sounds like you know what you are doing.

 

[Don Mac]

Thanks guys for the ready advice.
The casting number on this Fergie where you suggested to look is 1 7 6 4 (all in one line).
Does that suggest that it is a 1954 model or does 6 + 4 make 10 for 1950? Confused.
But then this tractor could have been made from two, some farmer mechanics were great at cobbling units together.

There is another casting number on the engine block behind the generator which I will need to remove the generator to read, so will learn this on the weekend.

Jeff, the plan to drain out the old oil and replace it first with some old waste oil(diesel) which has some diesel in it and then run it for a few days. I was advised to not use diesel alone as it will create seal leaks all round. I would like to hear your best option to consider especially if it is better.
Also the best modern oil to use in the diff/trans, I have read everything from engine oil, GL 1 to whatever transmission oil is the cheapest you can buy. All suggestions welcome.

 

[Jeff-oh]

The procedure I have written is basically:

1) Open each drain (3 total) one at a time to handle the initial gush.

2) Open all drains at once to catch the remainder.

3) Use Diesel or Kerosine (2 gal) and run around for short period (10 min or so) to dilute and wash out the rest of the water contaminated oil.

4) Then once you are confident con taminated oil is out refill. Fill first 4 gallons then fill last 2 gallons 1/2 gallon at a time and allow 5 min for oil levels to settle out on the dip stick before next 1/2 gal.


Recomended oils: GL-1 available at NAPA as PN 65-205 (5 gal) and 65-201 (1 gal) do not use GL-3 or GL-5

MF's 1103 spec oil.

Also many use 10W40 motor oil for year round use in cloder climates.

Do not use Transmission oil.

 

[Bill Brox]

This was a tricky one, wasn't it.

17 of june 1954 I would say.

Can the first 1, instead be a 4 ? Because that means a 54.

Now, what you can tell us is where the water pump is mounted. Is it mounted on the end of the head, or the end of the block ?
If it is mounted on the end of the block, you have a mix of new rear end and old engine. If the pump is mounted on the head, it correspond with the rear end being a 1954 rear end, and the first 1 should be a 4 instead.

 

[Don Mac]

Bill
Thanks for that update. I am unable to work on the tractor until Saturday (my time NZ so will get back to you then. Some mystery here and I value your help.

Jeff, the only difference we were planning to leave a mixture of waste oil and diesel in the tractor for longer than 10 minutes - we were talking a couple of weeks and about 2 hours road running.
Local experience in our club with straight diesel has led to the major seals leaking, so waste oil is included to ensure they stay sealed....Looks
like I will shorten our planned time and focus on a short term effort rather than a long time interval. We plan to water blast the tractor surfaces before changing the oil.

Many thanks for your help.
Don

 

[Bill Brox]

In your climate I would have used 15W-40 oil, a normal good mineral engine oil on both rear end and engine, makes it easier with only 1 oil.

Bill

 

[Jeff-oh]

Another Kiwi eh!.

Good to have you here. There are several posters from N.Z. and that big "island" North of you. An I think we even had someone from Tasmania a week or so ago.

Your mixture is fine. The issue we found is the contaminated oil finds all kinds of little pockets to hide in and you just need to keep diluting and flushing enough to make sure it does not ruin the new good oil you will eventually put it. Sounds like a good plan.

I agree with everything Bill has said. Use a 15W40 engine oil for year round smooth operation.

Your countryman, Hillery used 5 and 10 weight engine oil in his TEA-20's for the Trans-Antartic Expodition back in 1955.

Finally if you want to add a little to you display see if you can get one of the $1.50 nnalert stamps dipicting the TEA, and the TEA is also on your $5.00 bank note. It's hiding in the bottom left corner.

 

[Bill Brox]

I agree with Jeff, 10W-40 can be used in colder climates, and up here I recommend 10W-30 for winteruse. But, having a blockheater I use 15W-40 in winter too on the vehicles I have time to use a blockheater on.

But, I suspect that New Zealand does not have very cold winters, not like minus 10 to 20 in the winter. That was centigrades for those on the planet used to Rankine or Kelvin or whatever.

Bill

 

[Don Mac]

Many thanks for the help guys.
I think the Fergie is a 1954 model based on Bill's info. The following photo is of the engine casting number which is 1154, and you can see the water pump is part of the block, but overlaps the head.
The trans/diff casting number is 1754. So those are very close to each other.I can only think the plate number is of another tractor when this tractor was last refurbished. I know it was a find from the bush some 30 years ago, according the last owner.
Thank you for your help, Don

 

[Purryburry]

Jeff I notice you say not to use hydraulic oil. Is gear oil the same or is it ok to use.

Mal

 

[Bob (Aust)]

Purryburry. Don't use hydraulic oil in a Ferguson or you will damage the transmission. Don't use heavy grade gear oil.

(Jeff may suggest gear oil is OK, but it is a language thing! :shock: Gear oil in the US appears to be different to what we call gear oil in Australia, which is viscose SAE90 or SAE140 transmission lubricant.)

I see you are also in Australia. I use Caltex "for older engines" in the engine and transmission of my TEA20, think it is 15W-40 from memory. Alternatively, simply use the same oil in the transmission that you use in the engine.

Bob in Oz
'53 TEA20