To reduce the need to use a string trimmer, I plant a solid ring of hosta plants around the base of trees. That pushes the diameter of the tree out a additional 3 to 4 feet, large enough that my riding lawn mower can easily circle the tree. Hosta leaves are thick and overhang the ground by about 6 to 8 inches shading out the grass to about the edge of their leaves. Mulch between the tree trunk and the hostas prevents grass from growing inside the hosta ring until the hostas get established.

Both my push mower and riding mower can slip under the hosta leaves or push the leaves to the side enough to cut all the grass along the edge of the plants. Hostas are expensive to buy, but they are easy to divide and transplant once you have some established. Divide them in early Spring when the spikes are out of the ground but the leaves have not uncurled yet. Once divided and transplanted the spike leaves will open to fill in a full circle around the entire plant on both the old plants and the newly transplanted ones. In MN hostas can be divided every 3 to 5 years (climate zone 3B). Eventually between edged flower beds and hostas I was able to completely eliminate the need to use a string trimmer in my yard.

There may be other plants that work better in your climate.
 
I'd suggest getting a hockey stick type wick/wiper rather than spraying. It will give better selective control for what you want to do. Then just mix at regular strength and apply.

Rod
 
Liberty herbicide (glufosinate) is a much safer choice for spot spraying around desirable landscaping than is Roundup(glyfosinate). It will kill virtually all annual plants and kill top growth of perennials. However, most perennials will grow from the root again. Repeated application of Liberty to perennials will eventually kill them.It is also effective on many species that are now resistant to Roundup.
 
As I understand the label, I mix 4-6 oz per gallon in a spot sprayer, either the 2 gallon hand sprayer or the 10 gallon electric one. Using too weak of a mixture causes resistance. I now mostly spray my gravel driveway and not much else. Glyphosate is only supposed to be absorbed by green foliage, and weeds with mostly stalks have a harder time being killed by it. However, over time repeated spraying will cause bare dirt which can erode and become a place for more weed seed to germinate. Catch-22! Other desirable plants may be an alternative after spraying. It takes about a week for most stuff to die, but good grass is a little quicker to die. And it can drift a foot or two if you are not careful.
Pramitol is supposed to prevent seed from germinating for a season, but I have had mixed results and you need a rain shortly after spraying it, and it can leach to areas where you don't want things to die. Mark.
 
I mix 3 oz per gallon in a two-gallon hand sprayer for the driveway gravel and around the buildings. Keep the pressure low to avoid spray drift. Just enough to wet the leaves.
 
Select herbicide - there are very many generic brands - will kill grasses but doesnt harm most any kind of broadleaf or tree type of plant. It is used a lot in many many sensitive garden crops to kill off grasses.

Paul
 
Low rates at 1.5 oz per gal will kill grass and green vegetation. It will take longer though. When plants are dry and under moisture stress glyphosate and other weed killers are not absorbed. Label says to add ammonium sulfate if you have hard water, add it anyway, it will make it absorb faster at low rates. A handful per gal, can be purchased at garden stores.
 
Experiment, start with 5 oz and reduce until you find what works. Then post back. I'm not happy with 2 oz
 
Go see if your farmer neighbors have any gramoxone and get a couple of oz and you will see results in a few hours.
 
(quoted from post at 10:51:05 07/29/23) Any recommendations of what will kill grass around trees without harming the tree.
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Of course trees like fruit trees that send up suckers every year that then get sprayed with glyphosate might also kill the entire tree.
 
Round up will kill trees even if it is not sprayed directly on the tree. Though I doubt through the roots it will do much since it is a contact herbicde and needs leaf contact to work well. Now for the time frame Round up claims you need about a week to see anything dieing. I figure it takes about 5 days to see the color start to show signs of wilting and color changing and a few more to make sure things are dieing. IF you want faster action Liberty will show results in about 1-3 days depending on the weed weed height and conditions under stress it may not show as well or as fast. For fence rows and brush control I use some 24D and round up or Liberty depending on what I have around. 24D is a slow action spray takes close to 2 weeks to see much on most plants.
 
CLETHODIM Is the ingredient in Select herbicide. It kills grasses, but not broadleaves at all.

Roundup, glyphosate, can kill trees. Usually you are ok spraying around the trunk of a big tree because the bark doesnt absorb very much at all into the sap layer of the tree. But if there was any pruning or damage to the bark (Scraped, cut, insect boring) or suckers that were cut off, the roundup could have a path into the sap flow of the tree and harm or kill the tree.
 
Will ammonium sulfate choke the spray nozzles?
I used primatol and battle blocked spray nozzles. No thanks to primatol.
 
The laundry detergent is a Surfectant that helps the plant to absorb the spray. You can also buy it where you buy your spray. Don't remember where I found out about Surfectants but since I've been using them with my spray I have had excellent results.
 
Well John, now that you know there are unlimited mix ratios for Roundup and they all work, what's your next move?
 
(quoted from post at 14:31:04 07/30/23) Well John, now that you know there are unlimited mix ratios for Roundup and they all work, what's your next move?
The scary part is NO ONE quantified their ounces per gallon or ratio, etc. using what strength level of glypho they are mixing with that gallon of water formula.
 
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