Good news, bad news

[Billybuck]

660, the good news - replaced the battery. She starts and runs nicely. Slight positive at the ammeter, 50# oil pressure, temp gauge never moved but may never have gotten over 100 where gauge begins. At least it doesn't leak. Proofmeter works. All gauges are now new as is all wiring. Friend was by so helped me install the lift cover.

Bad news - went to torque the lift ram cylinder bolts, front left is stripped. Longer bolt maybe? Helicoil? Tries to grab then drops the thread.

Raised postion control lever, up came the lift arms. Lowered lever, arms stayed up (no links attached). Could not push them down with tractor running. Tractor off, was able to push them down with a foot. What is that about? Exhaust valve? Was ok before I pulled the cover but would not lift weight of bush hog. Could it be that ram backup ring that was so tight?

 

[souNdguy]

see if there is enough meat to drill out to next standard size and tap. I'd do that vs a helicoil.. though a helicoil would be my 3rd option. 2nd option is to see if it can be drilled thru and then stick a nut under it and use a longer bolt. then a blip of weld on 2-3 facings to tack the nut to the casting so you can actually take her apart again...if neither are particularly good, then tap for a pipe plug, install it.. machine flat then drill out standard and thread standard. keep in mind that standard is better as if you oversize it.. you have to oversize everything in line above.... ie.. lift cover too..( can be done with a 4" grinder and hand drill and hand taps. not a bad deal... i done in.. you can to.. )

Had plenty of practice with ALL those methods on my 950 I just redid. I think it had 30+ broke fasteners into important parts, including broke out ears on t he head and block.. etc..


my vote is a thru nut/long bolt.. or drill and tap for a pipe plug and then redrill/tap standard. I've seen blocks fixed that way where a stud pulled threads out..

soundguy

 

[Billybuck]

soundguy - this is the left forward hole of the four for the ram piston. I'm afraid it is one of the doweled holes. Through-boring might even stirke the piston bore. There is plenty of "meat" so going up a size should work but sounds like you prefer the pipe plug method. I really hate the idea of pulling this cover again. I'm gonna run out of friends!

You don't have thoughts on the lift arms stuck up issue?

 

[souNdguy]

that hole... I'd tap it for a pipe plug in a heartbeat, then grind flat and then drill standard and not lose a seconds sleep over it.

arms..? i'd look at unloading valve to see if it was sticking..

friends for the cover? just snatch that bad boy off there .. ain't too bad. besides.. you should be good at it by now..

soudnguy

 

[Billybuck]

I may try Permatex on that bolt first. Much cheaper than back surgery and other options are still there if it doesn't work.

Also, I think I'll hang the bush hog off the back to see if the weight changes the game ie. unsticks the valve first.

I'd like to think I've removed my last lift cover for a while, though it doesn't sound like it

How would I dead center the hole I drill through the ground off pipe plug? Score it through the lift cover hole with a bit which fills the hole?

 

[souNdguy]

permatex? might as well use marshmellow paste.

WON'T help a stripped hole..

weight on the 3pt WILL NOT free up a sticky unloading valve

use the top cover as the template for the drill.. drill thru it.. that cast plug will drill like butter with a good hss bit.. and like hot butter with a cobalt or carbide bit.. just drill it don't even worry about scoring and then hand drilling. it'l take only a few seconds to make it thru the plug with a goot bit.. and you will be SURE it's true. I'd do the same with the tap.. that way you know your bolt will go in true.

seriously.. the permatex thing will just waste your money and time... if you think the cover is too heavy to manhandle, park under a tree or build an a-frame and use block and tackle or a winch, or a gin pole or a borrowed laoder for a lil lift help. I did that on a rowcrop as they are a lil taller and it helped me lift it off. on the lower ag chassie it's never been a problem once the gasket came un glued..

soundguy

 

[Billybuck]

Are you familiar with Permatex thread repair? I used it on my 8N front mount distributor stripped mounting bolt. That's been 8 years ago and still holds strong. Not that there's much torque there, but more than a marshmellow could handle.

Why would the unloading valve be working 3 weeks ago when I pulled the cover, and not when I put it back on? I need visual proof! besides, I suspect the dry backup ring...

I may try the plug. I have the tap. Maybe just need a rest after a very busy phsical day before thinking about pulling that cover again.

 

[souNdguy]

thread repair epoxy? I wouldn't trust it on a bolt sandwiching metal to metal holding an oring holding back 2000 psi that will blow out when you need it..

id have heli-coiled a simple connection like the front mount. no real torque needed there..

a spec of sand or a droplet of moisture that made a lil contact rust is all that is needed to stick an unload valve.

pulling the plug in the 3x5 cover will allow oil to exhaust and the arms to drop.. that will tell you if they are mechanically stuck up and bound.. or if it is not exhausting oil..

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 18:32:53 12/11/10) 660, the good news - replaced the battery. She starts and runs nicely. Slight positive at the ammeter, 50# oil pressure, temp gauge never moved but may never have gotten over 100 where gauge begins. At least it doesn't leak. Proofmeter works. All gauges are now new as is all wiring. Friend was by so helped me install the lift cover.

Bad news - went to torque the lift ram cylinder bolts, front left is stripped. Longer bolt maybe? Helicoil? Tries to grab then drops the thread.

Raised postion control lever, up came the lift arms. Lowered lever, arms stayed up (no links attached). Could not push them down with tractor running. Tractor off, was able to push them down with a foot. What is that about? Exhaust valve? Was ok before I pulled the cover but would not lift weight of bush hog. Could it be that ram backup ring that was so tight?

illy, you don't actually have an exhaust valve, but the exhausting function is carried out by the position of the control valve. Control valve must be withdrawn far enough out to uncover the lift cylinder port in order to dump the lift cylinder & lower.

 

[souNdguy]

your turn...

 

[Billybuck]

That makes sense with what I looked at in the manual an hour ago. When I finished tuning, the valve was coming up flush with the machined housing when the position control was lowered. Dunno.

 

[Billybuck]

ok

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 23:08:31 12/11/10) ok

'm a Modern View guy & SouNdguy a Classic View guy, so I'm late seeing his recommendation to pull the accessory cover/plate plug & see if it lowers. I say get on with that.

 

[Larry NCKS]

I'm late on this too, but would not be afraid to fix the front left bolt problem with a helicoil. These are good stuff.

 

[Billybuck]

back - after coffee - beware!

soundguy - aren't I going to have a problem using the pipe plug method in the doweled hole? The dowel is unthreaded, would be removed I guess, but then I would be unable to grind the pipe plug as it would be in the recessed hole for the dowel. ..and no, I do not have a lathe

 

[Billybuck]

I've a feeling that's where I'll end up Larry. Have a brand name you like?

 

[Billybuck]

I have an accessory valve and can rig that to bleed as you suggest. First, though, I will reinstall my lift links and rods. The links were upside down and binding, now painted. Then I'll stand on the drawbar and give it a chance to lower. Weather permitting..today.

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 09:40:24 12/12/10) I have an accessory valve and can rig that to bleed as you suggest. First, though, I will reinstall my lift links and rods. The links were upside down and binding, now painted. Then I'll stand on the drawbar and give it a chance to lower. Weather permitting..today.

ill be looking for your results.

 

[Larry NCKS]

sorry, no specific recs.

 

[souNdguy]

could be gotten around with a recessed head plug, or preground plug with a slot cut in it for large screwdriver insertion.. but helicoil to standard is looking easier at this point.