Got Fred's Head off :)

[Sean (TX)]

Not one broken bolt or stud. 3 nuts were rusted so bad I split them with a cold chisel. What is left of 2 spark plugs are still in there. 2 Threaded out no problem. What is the best way to get the rest of the spark plug out?

How much surface rust can be on the cylinder walls? And still have a chance of getting it unstuck? Some of the walls are pretty shiney still. Some areas are rusty..

 

[Den N Ms]

Sean,Fred's insides don't look to bad at all.Looks like #4 may have been using a little oil last time it was running.I would scuff the rust out of the cylinder walls with some 320 sand paper blow them out real good then spray them down with some PB Blaster,clean and spray the valves also and let it soak on top of the pistons to help free up the rings.After letting it soak try and bar the engine over back and forth,till you can get it free.Get all the valves free.Get the broken plug out, clean up the head and block deck,new head gasket bolt it back on and start it up.

 

[ebbsspeed]

Before you go to work with the sandpaper, smear a bunch of grease around the circumference of each cylinder, so it seals up the gap between piston and cylinder. This grease will keep any sandpaper grit from getting to the rings. Once you're done sanding, you can carefully scrape the grease out, and any sandpaper residue with it. Sandpaper grit will embed itself into the rings, cylinder walls and pistons, and wear that fella out a whole lot faster, so do what you can to keep it clean. I've also used melted wax to seal that gap, you can then use some pretty good solvents to clean the cylinder and not have to worry about the grease dissolving. You can scrape most of the wax out when you're done, and what's left in the gap will melt and mostly burn up. Some will get into the oil, so as soon as you get it running and up to temp, drain the oil while it's hot.

 

[Dell (WA)]

Sean.........me? I'd wipe down yer cylinder walls with WHITE VINEGAR and leave a cuppa WV on top of yer cylinders. Acetic acid has an "affinity" for rust (iron oxide) that alotta other mouse-milk's don't. Then after a day, "ROCK" the engine with long lever. Keep attitt'till it breaks lose, maybe couple of days. Make certain you still have about 1/2in WV on tops of yer pistons. Acetic acid doesn't really attack regular clean steel or aluminum pistons.

As fer yer stuck sparkies. That's what happens when you don't use silver anti-seize. (Permatex) Drill size for 14mm (standard sparkie thread size) surprizingly enuff is 1/2-in. Everybody has 1/2in drillbit. Knock-out the ceramic and drill away. Done well, you can "peel" the left-over threads out. Then "chase" yer threads with sparkie thread cleaner. (available at NAPA etc).......Dell

 

[Sean (TX)]

I didnt break the spark plugs off. I pulled them out with my fingers LOL Rusted all the way through...That gulf coast weather is hell on metal.

Head and block cleaned up good. No cracks

 

[Joe T (CO)]

Sean,
Looks like you have been busy!

I like the name Fred.

Joe

 

[Sean (TX)]

Joe,
It looks promising. The tin IMHO is shot and beyond repair. If I can get it unstuck...Ill do a compression test. Then go from there. Just picked it up yesterday. I dug in today. The boys came up with the name... Sure is ugly...

 

[Hobo,NC]

It does look good,,, ME,,, I would soak in ATF mixed with diesel,,, take the starter off and with a pry bar werk the flywheel ring gear teeth,,, B genital,,, I bet it will break loose,,, its hard to beat the leverage you can apply to the ring gear back and forth

 

[John (TR)]

I've drug a couple of tractors like that home. I was able to get the motors unstuck but have had more problems getting the valves working again. You may want to pull the valve covers and start soaking them too
Good luck with the new toy!

 

[Sean (TX)]

Ill soak them next. Need to remove the manifold and valve covers.

 

[Sean (TX)]

(quoted from post at 18:42:33 03/09/08) It does look good,,, ME,,, I would soak in ATF mixed with diesel,,, take the starter off and with a pry bar werk the flywheel ring gear teeth,,, B genital,,, I bet it will break loose,,, its hard to beat the leverage you can apply to the ring gear back and forth

Ill give it a try. In the mean time ill test the starter in my 9N.

 

[Ultradog MN]

Ha Ha,
I've got two of them blue handled Estwing hammers my self that I make my living with.
One a 20 oz straight claw and a 16 oz curved.
Wouldn't dare use them on old iron though.
Get ya a couple of garage sale ballpeens when you can. Safer and more better.
Tractor is looking more and more like a worthy project.

 

[Sean (TX)]

(quoted from post at 21:51:04 03/09/08) Ha Ha,
I've got two of them blue handled Estwing hammers my self that I make my living with.
One a 20 oz straight claw and a 16 oz curved.
Wouldn't dare use them on old iron though.
Get ya a couple of garage sale ballpeens when you can. Safer and more better.
Tractor is looking more and more like a worthy project.

Estwing makes a nice hammer You are right it is starting to look like I got a better deal then I though. I was expecting to find cylinders full of water. I think someone couldnt get it started and it just got parked and left for dead. Tin is shot!!! Gas tank looks usable...More to come.

 

[Tex - Driftwood]

Sean, why do i feel jealous??? LOL. (after all that crap my last one put me through). Its true what they say about these things, once they get in your blood, its hard to get em out. Everywhere i go now, im looking for N's hiding in the back of the pasture, or in barns...and i can usually tell from 100 yards out what model it is. I guess there could be worse things.

 

[Sean (TX)]

Its all true. I can name atleast 10 spots where other N's are. I pass a 9N all the time that is missing the engine (just has a oil pan holding it together LOL 46 and IH 35) Always on the hunt for hidden N's. A 8N has been sitting under a tree 3 miles from here with the grill leaning on a front tire for over a year now... All I need is a 8N....already have a 9N and 2N...No known cure...All you can do is buy another one and you will feel better for a while... Saw a NAA with a loader today on FM 1518...Looked good

 

[Sean (TX)]

I put some WV in like Dell suggested. Seems to be eating the rust already. How long should I leave the WV in?

Dug deeper and pulled the exhuast manifold and valve covers. Pretty clean. No sludge...

Here is some more pictures...

 

[Dunk]

Sean...

I think I would clean that up, put it back together and see how it runs, after running under a load for a few hours.

A for the broken plugs...

I would punch them out in the centers, and blow the preheater on a cutting torch thru them till they turned a really good red, nearly white and let them cool, they should then come right out.

Any shop with a torch should be able to help you there for nearly nothing if you still haven't gotten you a torch.

I am totally amazed that you seem to have removed the manifold studs without any good heat.

That is a good sign IMO that this engine has had work in it's recent past.

JMO, worth what you paid for it.. LOL.

 

[Sean (TX)]

I got a torch...Didnt have to use it. They came right out. Ill try it on the plugs. The centers pulled right out of the plug LOL

 

[Sean (TX)]

Fred is unstuck..Pulled the starter and cranked it over with a pry bar.

Front bushing on starter is sliding out on the shaft. Im going to test it and if it works I have a rebuild kit on hand.

 

[Sean (TX)]

(quoted from post at 20:24:06 03/10/08) Sean...

I think I would clean that up, put it back together and see how it runs, after running under a load for a few hours.

A for the broken plugs...

I would punch them out in the centers, and blow the preheater on a cutting torch thru them till they turned a really good red, nearly white and let them cool, they should then come right out.

Any shop with a torch should be able to help you there for nearly nothing if you still haven't gotten you a torch.

I am totally amazed that you seem to have removed the manifold studs without any good heat.

That is a good sign IMO that this engine has had work in it's recent past.

JMO, worth what you paid for it.. LOL.

[b:24d1a8c37a]Torch worked like a champ!![/b:24d1a8c37a]

[b:24d1a8c37a]Got them red hot. Let them cool and taped them out with a hammer and cold chisel. Think ill put it back together and test the compression.[/b:24d1a8c37a]

 

[Sean (TX)]

Im about to wrap it up for the day...

 

[Sean (TX)]

Order the head gasket set from NAPA it will be here in a week. I removed control spring yoke. I cant beleave it came off. I cant even get the one off my 9N. have those in a electrolysis tank now.

 

[Dan in CO]

Sean:

Thanks for the update. Will look forward to getting the gasket as much as you are. I'll bet you have him running the same day they arrive.

 

[Sean (TX)]

(quoted from post at 19:27:30 03/13/08) Sean:

Thanks for the update. Will look forward to getting the gasket as much as you are. I'll bet you have him running the same day they arrive.

still trying to decide if I want to replace the head studs.

Just finished up for the day. Removed the seat, spring, stay bars, lower lift arms and the fenders.
Draw bar and stay bars and brackets look fairly new...Made in China.

 

[Sean (TX)]

Fliped his tires today just for fun and to see if they were loaded...Not loaded...The hat rims will clean up nicely

 

[Joe T (CO)]

Looks like you have been busy! Hope it you have good compression, you may have a good running tractor.

Joe

 

[Sean (TX)]

Thats what im hoping for...Maybe I will get lucky 8) Got the tin on the 9N yet?

 

[Joe T (CO)]

I worked ozzie for 3 hours today. I used a disc I bought for $50 and then did some blade work. I even ran up the hill to the in-laws house and bladed their driveway.

Nope no tin yet