govenor

[LisaK]

49 8n 6v..bought this tractor couple years ago down in Minneapolis MN..its always had a throttle issue...has a novi gov..here's what i know..high idle barely moving the throttle lever...can slow the idle by manually pushing the inner arm on the govenor. when i manually push it forward on the carb end of the rod spring/connection moves but doesnt on its own. spring is loose on the other arm. I have switched the rod on the inner arm with a different tractor that has no issues..i've had the govenor off and all appears good other than the inner armm has some play...what am i missing. I have the tractor for sale so i would like to get it fixed before it goes

 

[Royse]

Hey Lisa, nice to hear from you!
Since you have parts available, try swapping the carb.
Two nuts and a fuel line. Easy test. Use a new gasket.
I know it sounds wrong but I just chased my tale on one like that.

Tractor wouldn't idle down by the throttle but would by hand.
Governor wouldn't kick in enough to back it on a trailer.
Seemed like a governor issue but the carb did the same thing
on my known working 8N.

Turned out to be an air leak at the carb to manifold gasket.
Stud hole in the carb top flange was partially stripped.
It would tighten up and run great but then it would vibrate loose
in a day or so of running and return to the original symptoms.

Might not be your current trouble but worth a shot.

 

[Jerry9N]

Lisa,
Royse's idea gives you two tests, if you put the new carb on the questionable engine, and the questionable carb on a running tractor with a good governor. Now, if the governor is bad, the carb did'nt solve the problem. But if the questionable carb works great with the good governor, then you have proved that your carb is good. Now swap the carbs back, and next swap the governors. The good tractor should now have problems, and they sale tractor should be fine. If the sale tractor still has problems, then start looking at air leaks like Royse said.
Good Luck!
Jerry

 

[DGinVT]

Lisa:
As others have said, check for any air leaks:
Manifold to block(loose or burned gasket), make sure that the manifold nuts are tight, carb to manifold( bad gasket)check the tightness of the carb attaching nuts .
Then check for "lost motion" in the carb rod to governor, hand throttle rod to governor. Those little spring joint connections (rod ends) wear out, ie springs loose or worn.
Then check the governor spring. It shud be a snug fit, not loose in the two link holes and not tight. Then carefully check for looseness in the governor throttle arm shaft(worn areas). Any "lost motion" in this area will lead to poor or no response. Both governor arms shud be a running fit(snug but not tight). Due to its age there cud be a wear ring in the race area of the two cups that hold the fly balls.

 

[Den N Ms]

The spring on the governor arm should have no tension on it at idle position just snug and not loose or flopping.Then it should start to get tension on it as the throttle is increased.I use a big pair of channel lock pliers to bend the spring hooks closer in to the coil of the spring to take up slop in the spring.A snug spring also brings RPMs back up to 2200 where they should be.

 

[LisaK]

I'll check that all out. Gonna send it
to auction next month. Haven't had time
to mess with it yet