Governor compensating spring

[Danny6072]

My throttle was real hard to pull so I got looking and found my governor compensation spring was not there so I ordered one installed it and now my throttle is way too loose and between 900 RPMs and 1200 it surges pretty bad but it was surging without the spring as well.
Not sure if it’s a governor issue or that throttle twist plate that looks kind of like a flower where it pivots.
any help would be great thanks

I would attach a video but every video I try to attach says it’s too large even if it’s five seconds

 

[sotxbill]

Did not spec which tractor.. but the throttle friction plate is responsible for adjusting the "drag" on the throttle lever to keep it in place. Many have the friction material missing, gone, and fallen out.... but most will respond well to adjusting the nut at the bottom of the throttle rod. Guessing you have a 601. Now the governor is a whole different can of worms, along with the carb accelerator pump, static timing, advance, and the position of the moon, along with a groove worn into the governor centrifugal plate.

 

[Danny6072]

I will try my luck at the nut tension and se what’s stacked in there, and yes a 601/641 is the correct prize, and for guessing the correct tractor you get a Pepsi cola, bad thing is you have to buy it yourself, … sorry

The good thing is if you don’t like Pepsi you can choose something else. Lol

Thanks

 

[sotxbill]

Thanks for the rootbeer. Remember the carbs are bad about choking down and then catching up when the governor kicks in... then it over revs a bit....... This is due to the holly carb having the accelerator pump frozen due to water egress, then corrosion. Sadly the pump plunger is usually permanently stuck/welded/glued in the housing.. so when the carb butterfly is pulled open, the mixture goes suddenly lean, making the engine cough, pause, choke, lag or what ever. Most of us live with this... Very few folks successfully get the plunger loose, and some just replace the carb with a zenith or cheap knock off carb. New carbs will fix the problem for about 40 years or so and then start the process all over. Moisture egress come from sleeping out side its whole life, poor gas can storage, condensation, and not being run every single day, so a fairly large amount of water slug develops into the fuel system. And since the accelerator pump is in the lowest part of the carb bowl,, and water is heavier that gasoline, all that water just sits there for most of the winter months. Then add in the disimular metals, of copper, steel, pot metal, aluminium, water.... and you have major chemical reactions, or corrosion.