Governor problems

[plandon3]

I need some help.
8n governor throttle lever won't hit tge stop.If i pull the inards out it will hit the stop.
Any ideas would be great

 

[HCooke]

Can you post a picture?

 

[plandon3]

Will that work

 

[soaked]

Hi plandon3, welcome back!
With the engine off, the gov fork has pushed as far forward as it can, when the arms are straight up, 12:00 o'clock. The spring starts expanding if settings of a higher rpm are desired.

Does your 8n gov run the rpms properly?

 

[plandon3]

As the picture show the governor at rest now I can push on the lever hard enough to make it touch but installed on tractor it does not touch the stop.And yes it seams to run at the rite RPMs but if you try to adjust it according to the book .It winds up full throttle at 2/3s of th quadront

 

[soaked]

Not hitting the stop, when on the tractor, could be the lever assy clamp not tight enough, allowing the lever to slip on the control rod.( shouldn't hit full rpms tho?)

Gov flyballs should not have flats spots.
Spring should be "snug" no preload, and no slack.
Drive shaft shimmed to 0.220" - 0.230"
What items are "setting to the book" ??

 

[plandon3]

Book says put throttle at wide open and adjust linkage to fit

 

[plandon3]

I did notice that the cutaway you showed the fork

Hi plandon3, welcome back!
With the engine off, the gov fork has pushed as far forward as it can, when the arms are straight up, 12:00 o'clock. The spring starts expanding if settings of a higher rpm are desired.
View attachment 143005
Does your 8n gov run the rpms properly?

 

[plandon3]

I noticed on that picture the fork is under the washer I s rite

 

[soaked]

The shim in my cutaway is a piece of plastic, whose thickness put the drive shaft in the .220 - .230 spec. Not for use on a running engine. Thinking I robbed the metal shims to fix a different gov.
Here is FO-4 manual.
Yes the ends of the long "input" linkage rod has threaded ends that can shorten or lenghen it.
Flats pots?
Lever assy shifting?
Drive shaft shimmed to spec?

 

[soaked]

Here is AI generated info

 EDIT
AFTER STUDYING AI INFO CLOSELY, THERE ARE TOO MANY ERRORS TO KEEP IT POSTED.

 

[plandon3]

The shim in my cutaway is a piece of plastic, whose thickness put the drive shaft in the .220 - .230 spec. Not for use on a running engine. Thinking I robbed the metal shims to fix a different gov.
Here is FO-4 manual.
Yes the ends of the long "input" linkage rod has threaded ends that can shorten or lenghen it.
Flats pots?
Lever assy shifting?
Drive shaft shimmed to spec?

1st pic I s idel 2nd is wide open.Now that is watching the throttle lever on the carb as it just starts to off idel and as it end at wide open.now I can the throttle quadrant lever to the idel stop and to the wide open stop but it doesn't change carb any.
Also when the book says make your adjustment with quad.throttle lever in wide open position, in order for me get governor in the wide open position against stop I would have to push it there.Is that correct.I have checked all the parts of tge inside of governor and they are in good shape no flat spots no groves all levers are snug and the spring.
I'm lost

 

[soaked]

"now I can the throttle quadrant lever to the idel stop and to the wide open stop but it doesn't change carb any."
Is the lever assy loose?

The throttle control rod has a notch that lets the lever assy bolt pass through, giving a bit of adjustment.
See lever assy positions in post #6
Is yours clamped tight, or is the lever assy loose?

 

[plandon3]

Yes I checked the notch and the bolt was in and tite.

 

[plandon3]

I'll tell ya I am at my wits end with this thing .It seams like know matter what I do as far as an adjustment goes it's not working.

 

[soaked]

Gov dynamics can be tough, ---stick in there, if im missing something, others are here to help also.


So the bolt is tight.

If hold the throttle control handle, and try to move the lever assy with the other hand, it wont slip, its clamped tight to the shaft?

Can you post a pic of the gov arms and link rods with the gov installed?
Your gov looks like a Novi right, not aftermarket?
Your spring looks ok , not cheap aftermarket or bent up.
Are the rotating gov parts cheap new aftermarket?
 John

 

[plandon3]

I got it fixed.It was the governor or shims.It took 3 shims to do the job.
Than k s for all the help

 

[soaked]

I got it fixed.It was the governor or shims.It took 3 shims to do the job.
Than k s for all the help

Im glad we were able to talk on the phone, and that it's fixed.

Here are the two pics I sent of how to measure the gov, without the gov jig.

The housing is hanging from the vice, so the lower race is against the driver. I found a 7/16 open end wrench that is .220" wide, and use it to set the ball stop shims. If gap is too wide, the balls orbit into the housing.

Ruler is flat on the gasket surface, and tape is touching on the side of the ball connector. Spec is 2.5" to 2.56" , and that's where the tape reads.

 

[plandon3]

Well I guess I spoke to soon.It ain't fixed
That's idel
Dang it I don't know what to try next

 

[soaked]

Im glad we were able to talk on the phone, and that it's fixed.

Here are the two pics I sent of how to measure the gov, without the gov jig.
View attachment 143369
The housing is hanging from the vice, so the lower race is against the driver. I found a 7/16 open end wrench that is .220" wide, and use it to set the ball stop shims. If gap is too wide, the balls orbit into the housing.
View attachment 143372
Ruler is flat on the gasket surface, and tape is touching on the side of the ball connector. Spec is 2.5" to 2.56" , and that's where the tape reads.

This picture is NOT CORRECT
Manual says 2.50" to 2.56" from the center of the arm.( not the side of the ball)
Sorry for the error.
Here is an old post with info
https://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/threads/n-series-gov-adjusting-tool-specs.627523/