governor too tight

[deanostoybox]

Replaced the oil seal on the governor shaft. Now the shaft seems a bit tight. When the speed control lever is pulled back (WOT) the governor works normally. When the speed control lever is between 1/2 and idle position the throttle is not pulled closed by the governor. When the speed control lever is set to idle position the linkage closes the throttle. Seems like there is not enough centrifugal force to overcome the resistance of the new seal. Is this normal or am I missing something? BTW this is a 47 2N.

 

[deanostoybox]

Never mind found the problem.

'Twas the ball end on the new throttle shaft. Slightly bigger than the original causing binding at that point. Also hard to get the governor to carburetor rod on and off. Seems that increase in friction along with the new shaft seal on the governor was just too much. Put the original (worn) throttle shaft back in the carburetor and governor works right again. With new bushing, seal, and retainer, even though the throttle shaft is worn where the seal rides on it, can till get a nice slow idle.

 

[zeked]

How hard was it to refurbish the governor? If rebuilding a carb is a 3 out of ten? My 2N runs well but is a little wonky and I was considering rebuilding the governor


Thanks
Zeke

 

[Jim L WA]

Zeke, not sure if Deno will come back and see your question. I did my 2N governor a few years ago. I had no problems with it. I might say it's easier than a carburetor because the parts are bigger.

 

[zeked]

Thanks, James....I think I’ll tackle it when we get snowed in.....

 

[deanostoybox]

Nothing difficult about the governor. The FO4 manual has a section on it, and the other N forum has a good document in the manuals section that has some additional information about how to determine RPM if you do not have a suitable tachometer. Do an internet search for:
"Maintenance and Repair of the Governor and Control Linkage.pdf"
Should be the first result ...

You will need a caliper to measure the ball stop gap, and after 80+ years of wear may need to bend the governor arm to compensate for the wear on the tips of the fork. Or just bend the rod between governor and carburetor so that the fork is in contact with the fork base at idle.

And also it is important that there is no binding anywhere in the linkage, that one bit me. Ball end on the new throttle shaft too big. I do not know if replacing the governor to carburetor rod would have remedied that, the new rods may have bigger ends to match the bigger end on the throttle shaft. If so I would be concerned that it may be too loose when attached to the governor arm and tend to fall off

Best of luck on your endeavor.

 

[hunkydory]

FWIW, my governor needed rebuilding. Many of the online instructions show knocking the gear off the shaft with a drift and hammer. No joy for me - mine was on tight and needed to be pressed off.

I don't have a standalone press (on the list!) and the usual vise method wasn't strong enough.

An assembled shaft is less expensive than the parts to rebuild it. I went that route.

It measured in tolerance and required no extra shims. Installation was easy and it works fine.