Grader Blade Cutting Edge Replacement Advice

[C. Amick]

The cutting edge on my snow blade is worn out. The cutting edge is bolted on and the nuts are welded to the blade frame. It's going to be a job getting the nuts off. I guess I can try the angle grinder or the cutting torch? I can buy a piece of harden steel plate to use for a new cutting edge. Of course, it won't have any holes in it. I could driil the plate and attach it with hex head bolts or try welding it on?

 

[rankrank1]

I have also had luck simply running a couple beads of weld to the bottom of the existing wear edge on blades and buckets to get just a little more life out of them by building them up a little. It helps to do the weld build up before the edge is totally worn down to the nub though.

I use just standard weld rods that I can shape to desired shape with grinder. Almost all weld is harder than mild steel although not technically hardened.

 

[1370pwr in ne]

Maybe check with your county road crew.They might have a blade that would fit or be able to tell you where they purchase their blades. they might even have some old plow bolts that you could use.New 6inch X5/8sX8ft should be way less then 100 dollars.The new blade will have the curve in it also to help roll the snow.For a 3pt blade half inch would be thick enough.If you have enough power you could go with an 8 inch bit making your blade taller.Hope this helps.

 

[Christopher Mikesell]

I work with two welders and help them with several wear-edge replacement jobs each year. First, if you get a hardened or AR (Abrasive-Resistant) replacement wear edge, then you will not be able to drill it without a carbide drill and a rigid drill press, mill, etc. Carbide drills are VERY expensive and are ruined easily. Also, most AR plate has a high manganese content, which makes cutting it with a torch difficult. Cutting this steel takes a steady hand, and you will not get clean cuts.
Your best options are to either get a correct replacement wear edge and bolt it on, or to get another wear edge that will come close to fitting and weld it in place. If you choose to weld it, then you should expect to weld along the entire length of the wear edge, both top and bottom, and also along the ends. You will also need to make good welds, or else it will either brake free, or the welder who you hire to redo it will hate your guts for a brief period.

 

[Moline_guy]

On my blade I get the cutting edges from john deere, they are a little cheaper than caterpillar. I run two 8' x 8" edges and the last ones I got were around a $140 each. These are the curved type. Bolt pattern is usally standard unless your blade is home built, the edges already have the holes in them. Not sure why the nuts are welded on, all edges I have seen usually use countersunk bolts.

 

[dc in illinois]

hello, I have seen people use regular steel flat stock and drill the holes to about the same size as the tread of the bolt and use a file to get a square hole for a carriage bolt, and then you would not need welded nuts. a lot of work that's for sure but, if your like me I have more time than money! happy holidays Bob