GRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR

[CODI]

Okay....... for the third time in 6 months, my points have gave out! I am getting beyond the point of frustration with this thing. They have been gapped correctly and the cam is lubed. They aren't dirty, just burnt. What is causing this?

This is an 8N side mount, 6 volt.

 

[Jim in Western MI]

It's not simple to test condensers, so try another one. Even an old one you kept (of course) when you put on a new one is a good choice.

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 10:47:32 05/06/14) It's not simple to test condensers, so try another one. Even an old one you kept (of course) when you put on a new one is a good choice.

would also, ask, what does 'burnt' mean? They are switching current & will not remain mirror like in finish. Still run?

 

[CODI]

They have a charred appearance and don't switch current, even manually with a screw driver.

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 11:10:57 05/06/14)
They have a charred appearance and don't switch current, even manually with a screw driver.

o current with screwdriver touched from stationary structure to movable arm of points (not contact itself, but arm structure)?

 

[CODI]

Yes...

 

[R Geiger]

Make a jumper to jump around ignition switch and see what you get.

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 12:11:31 05/06/14) Yes...

n that case, I do not think it is a burned points issue. Since you can't even get current by shorting the arm up stream of actual contacts, then it isn't the contacts, but rather you have lost continuity up stream. A likely point is the copper strip from feed-thru to points or a shorted insulator in the feed-thru itself.

 

[CODI]

Can't be the copper strip or insulator
because I bypassed that and still nothing.

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 13:18:40 05/06/14) Can't be the copper strip or insulator
because I bypassed that and still nothing.

eep moving upstream then. Remove the wire between coil & distributor & strike a ground to that coil terminal & see if you can see a spark. How about voltage input to coil's other terminal?

 

[souNdguy]

use a long gator to gator jumper. put one on bat hot and work either back from dizzy or from bat up to dizzy.

each time you move past a wire/connection.. retest spark. when you go from 0 to spark, the last connection or wire you just moved past is culpret.

 

[Farmer(Ga)]

Codi, Check with John Smith he may have a good
side mount distributor. I just bought one from
him a few weeks ago and it was like new. He is a
good man to deal with. James

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 17:59:29 05/06/14) Codi, Check with John Smith he may have a good
side mount distributor. I just bought one from
him a few weeks ago and it was like new. He is a
good man to deal with. James

o questioning John as a great source, but this fellow hasn't found the problem yet. Too early to buy a distributor when he might need a crimp terminal or an ign switch!

 

[G6 at Snook, TX]

Codi,

Systematically trouble shoot it as JMOR suggests. You are in good hands.

 

[CODI]

(quoted from post at 01:15:27 05/07/14) Codi,

Systematically trouble shoot it as JMOR suggests. You are in good hands.

Everything was getting voltage so I just cleaned the points really good and it fired up. Still dealing with the sputter though. It is not in the wiring or the carb. and I adjusted the valves. Still has the sputter. I did notice that it runs better with only cylinders 2,3,4 running than when I add 1 back in. Curiouser and curiouser...

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 21:18:13 05/06/14)

(quoted from post at 01:15:27 05/07/14) Codi,

Systematically trouble shoot it as JMOR suggests. You are in good hands.

Everything was getting voltage so I just cleaned the points really good and it fired up. Still dealing with the sputter though. It is not in the wiring or the carb. and I adjusted the valves. Still has the sputter. I did notice that it runs better with only cylinders 2,3,4 running than when I add 1 back in. Curiouser and curiouser...

K, so now you have another problem & need a new thread/subject.