H Demons!

[TylerFarmallH]

Guys,

My 1946 Farmall H started to act up last winter when I was clearing snow from my drive.

The carb float was full of gas so I replaced it and cleaned the carb.

I hooked the governor up wrong and had to fix that...

It still didn't run right, surging and such, so I replaced the plugs and wires.

Still didn't run right..

The points were uneven and suspect so I replaced them with a petronix electronic ignition and new flamethrower coil as well as adjusted the plugs to .40, I also unhooked the capacitor per manufacturers recommendation.

The tractor purrs like a kitten under idle.

I have adjusted the carb to factory specs from a farmall manual with my farmall collector neighbor watching me.

Now It still stalls under a load and at high rpms it surges up and down slightly, enough that you can hear it.

I would think that would mean it could be starved for fuel but I have tried several adjustments on the high rpm jet.. 2 turns to 6 turns, no difference.

Please help me!

 

[GordoSD]

If you can turn the hi-speed jet needle 4 turns with no difference in rpm there's your answer. That passageway is clogged.

 

[TylerFarmallH]

I am not opposed to trying again but I cleaned it with carb cleaner, an air compressor and a brass wheel.... Is it something I can take out without fully dismantling the carb?

 

[rustyfarmall]

(quoted from post at 11:28:43 09/11/15) I am not opposed to trying again but I cleaned it with carb cleaner, an air compressor and a brass wheel.... Is it something I can take out without fully dismantling the carb?

You need to know where to look for the crud in the carburetor. Just soaking it in cleaner and then blowing it out isn't always good enough. The toughest crud will be in the tiny passage that allows fuel to enter the well, which is also part of the idle circuit. More than once I have had to use a small wire to dislodge the crud, and then finish the job with aerosol carb cleaner.

 

[old]

When cleaning a carb air and carb spray are only part of what needs to be done. You also need to poke out all the passage ways with a small wire or as I use a torch tip cleaner tool. Other wise the dirt and rust will still be in the passage ways and cause problems. Then after cleaning the carb good you need to adjust the gov to the carb and there is almost a whole page in the I-T manual explaining how to do that

 

[TomH in PA]

Also check the flow of fuel to the carb, it could be getting enough for idle but starving when it needs more flow. Rust in tank or clogged screen where it enters the carb are the most common places.

 

[Mark (EC,IN)]

It may not have anything to do with your problem, but it would be easy to check.
With the tractor running at a fast idle spray some starting fluid around the intake manifold. If the motor surges you may have a leak in the intake gasket.

Just a thought.

 

[Andy Martin]

The key is it was running fine until the float sank. Then after cleaning the carburetor and replacing the float, it would not run right. It's debris in the carburetor from removal/cleaning/reassembly. The ignition did not go bad while you were working on the carburetor.

 

[TylerFarmallH]

so I took the advice and removed the carb, cleaning it with air and ran thin wires through all the holes. The motor still lurches and it stalled out under a load. I did a YouTube video of the problem.

http://youtu.be/XLdxpcVt2eY

 

[Janicholson]

Are the points set to .202" and clean? IS the distributor shaft loose in its bushing. In up up down if you can feel it move it is worn out! Jim

 

[TylerFarmallH]

(quoted from post at 19:34:41 09/13/15) Are the points set to .202" and clean? IS the distributor shaft loose in its bushing. In up up down if you can feel it move it is worn out! Jim

It has an electronic ignition.