H engine Locked Up

jasblue

New User
This message is a reply to an archived post by pete 23 on August 01, 2011 at 17:23:52.
The original subject was "Re: H engine Locked Up".

i have a 1940 to 1950 international harvester tractor i6 that one cylinder is full of water when i pulled the spark plug and rust in the other three what can i do to free up the motor.
 
No "unsticking" that one. Tear it down and rebuild with new pistons sleeves. The thing is going to be rusted up pretty bad.
 
(quoted from post at 08:18:11 11/02/16) were do i find sleeves at i cant find them. serial number bk-26486

The I6 uses the same engine as a Farmall M. Sleeves, pistons, etc. are readily available for the M.
 
If theres rust like you say you need a tear down as sleeves and pistons are junk no way to save them ive had engines like that but new sleeves and pistons cures the problem. You will need to remove the engine so you can press the old ones out with a press and will probably want to grind the crank.
 
just wait untill you get the old ones out then you can get the measurements several suppliers will have new ones but you do need the measurements so dont worry about replacements.
 
I HAVE HAD ALOT OF PEOPLE TELL ME TO SUCK THE WATER OUT THEN FILL IT UP WITH ATF OR PB BLASTER AND OR ACETONE WITH ATF.
 
One that has had water in it for very long you stand about no chance of freeing it up. If the cylinders where dry ATF would work most likely but one tha thas water in it for who know how long almost no chance to free it other then by taking it apart
 
Ah but that is a years worth of rust. Ya you can try getting the cylinders dry and then fill them with ATF and let it sit. I had an Isuzu pickup that blew a head gasket and it sat about a year before I got to it and I got it to free up by drying the cylinders out and filling with ATF and a bottle of HEET mixed with the ATF just in case I did not get all the water
 
THERE IS RUST ON THE SPARK PLUGS ON ALL FOUR THE TRACTOR HAS ONLY BEEN SITTING FOR A YEAR. THERE IS ONLY ONE CYLINDER THAT WAS LEAKING WATER OUT OF PLUG HOLE WHEN PULLED IT.
 
Has it been sitting out side?? If yes did it have the exhaust covered?? Or if it has sat inside did it by chance freeze and maybe crack the head or block?? Or maybe the head gasket is bad any or all of those things will cause that and none are good
 
Many times a flapper does not work as well as one wants it to and a strong wide and rain can/will open it up then you have water in the cylinders. Or the exhaust pipe does not fit water tight and rain runs down the side of the pipe into the manifold and in turn fills the cylinders
 
(quoted from post at 14:05:26 11/02/16) suck the water out and let sit with mystery oil and atf or???

I had one very similar. Removed the head, soaked up the water, and filled the cylinders with ATF and acetone. Let it set. One year later it was still stuck. Pulled the engine out, turned it upside down, removed the crankshaft and tried to make the pistons move. Still stuck. Applied considerably more force and was able to make the sleeves come out with pistons still in them. Ended up wrecking the sleeves AND pistons, but I managed to save the connecting rods.
 
I think if it were me I would pull the head at the very least to see how bad everything is on the inside. Water can really wreak havoc in a short period of time. If there is only surface rust on the cylinder walls, you may be able to soak it with acetone and ATF enough to get the pistons to free up. Even then, you are probably looking at pulling the oil pan, removing the pistons and rods (because the rings are probably stuck in the pistons as well), honing the cylinders, and at the very least you might only have to buy a head gasket kit, some piston rings, and refill with oil.

Worst case scenario, you'll have to do as I did with my salvage yard M - pound the pistons out with a press or sledgehammer, replace the sleeves and pistons, and start fresh.

All of this, of course, is assuming you don't have a cracked head from freezing (not sure of your climate), or any stuck valves. That can bring in a whole new can of worms (of which I am very familiar with).

As you can see from the pictures I have enclosed, water can really do some damage.
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(quoted from post at 14:05:26 11/02/16) suck the water out and let sit with mystery oil and atf or???

I agree with the others, no magic potion is going to free that engine up. You can try but you will be disappointed.

At the very least, pull the head. Then you can see what you have to work with, and maybe you can mechanically clean up some of the rust.

I understand you want someone to tell you some "easy" way to free this engine up. There just isn't one. The second you see water, you're screwed. It's just that simple.

MAYBE you can clean up the rust once you take the head off and you can get it running without sleeves and pistons, but it's a long shot. You've got nothing to lose by trying.
 
this website sells the parts that you need. here is a link to the head gasket set your tractor has the same engine as the farmall m.
poke here
 
You can get them here at Yesterday's Tractor

http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/Farmall-H_Gasket-Set-Upper_354475R1.html
 
the gasket set i posted the link to will work for the gasoline engine in the c-248 engines. if your tractor is a distillate (kerosene) it will have an extra hole in the hood for a small one gallon gas tank. if it still has the kerosene head on it and the serial number is prior to 35463, use the gasket set VGK7510S.
 
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