Hand cranking a Ford 600?

[paul]

There is a broken thread about hand cranking a Ford 600 floating around here. I cant see the whole thread, just
bits.

So, I did not think the 100 series had a hand crank hole, crank, or option? Our 960s didnt.

Or what is that thread about?

Saw and very rarely cranked our F 20, H, 300, and 88. And Super 77 I guess. So Im familiar with the process. The
6 cylinder 88 was a bit much!

 

[Tom in Mo.]

Hi Paul, click over to Modern View and scroll down about half way and it's all there.

 

[Jim.ME]

A new user tagged onto a 14 year old post.

https://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t=550823

 

[stevob671]

900 series front bolsters didn't allow for cranks. Our 860 had a crank and we used it probably mostly in the winter if the battery wasn't up to snuff. Could only hand crank it up to compression and then it took our foot to spin it. Usually started on the first but sometimes the 2nd.

 

[RBnSC]

I recognized that it appeared that there was an option to hand crank the x00 tractors but I never knew of anyone that had done so. Up draft carburetor and cold oil and engine parts and 90 weight oil in the transmission with all the gears turning unless someone held the clutch in still there is the hydraulic pump that has to turn. I would think it almost impossible. We never tried with Grand dads 8n or dads 850. We always pull them off if need be. I believe you if you say you did. Seems very difficult.
Ron

 

[paul]

Oh sure, the lower 600/800 probably had room for the front shaft. Got it.

Paul

 

[Tinkering With Tim]

Does anyone have the dimensions or a link to directions for making a hand-crank for the mid-50s Fords? I'm doing some maintenance work, that is exactly what I would like one for, to turn the engine when I'm working on it without having to start it. (-: Just out there tinkering on my old Frod 860 and need to move the engine a bit without starting.

 

[Sean in PA]

A long breaker bar on the crankshaft pulley nut will turn the engine for you.

 

[Tinkering With Tim]

A long breaker bar on the crankshaft pulley nut will turn the engine for you.

I appreciate that idea, but you know how it is. I'd like to make one of the hand cranks if I can. I can't help myself. LOL The only info I really can't track down is the distance from the 1/4 roll pin to the tip of the 11/16 Rod. And if there is a source for the roller handle they use... (-: Love all the good tips on the form. Looking forward to sharing ideas here..

 

[MarkB_MI]

I turn over my row crop 4000 with a wrench on one of the front pulley bolts. Works clockwise only, of course.

 

[Sean in PA]

The hole in the front bolster on the non-row crop models was not really made for hand cranking. It was there to run a front mounted hydraulic pump for a loader.

 

[Tinkering With Tim]

I'm sure you are correct but I'm seeing videos and reports of people doing it. Remember I'm not really trying to start it, I'm just using this as a tool to turn over the engine for working on the distributor or other maintenance things. (-: I'll have to take a closer look when it warms up here.

 

[Sean in PA]

If you want to try, simply use a socket of the correct size for the crankshaft pulley nut and weld it to whatever handle you want to fabricate., as long as the socket fits through the hole in the bolster.

 

[DanielW]

I was missing the proper crankshaft nut to accept a hand crank on a Super W6. I bought a crank pulley bolt with the appropriate wings for the crank handle off Ebay - I think it was actually from an Allis of some sort. Cut the heads off, beveled for a good weld prep, then welded the Allis head to the head of the crank pulley bolt on the W6. The nut is the only part that could be semi-hard to fabricate yourself: the crank is just a bent 3/4" or 1" rod (will need some heat if bending yourself), and in the case of the W6 a larger (I think 2" diameter) piece of round bar bored through to centre it in the casting (Google the hand crank for a W6/Farmall M and you'll see what I mean).

Folks get pretty hot and bothered about crank-starting engines. Maybe I'm crass, but I never worried about it. Sometimes I crank start the W6 just for fun, and being a super model with fire craters in it it'd almost certainly break your wrist/arm if it was in the wrong spot and back-fired. Just be sure you're pulling up and have your fingers positioned so the crank will be pulled out of them if it backfires. I might take extra care if you knew your valve seats were a little worn or if your dizzy needed a tune-up.

I had a friend in university that put a crank on his old civic when the starter solenoid would occasionally stick, because he was too lazy/cheap to replace the starter (which was buried up behind the exhaust manifold and a pain to get at). Actually, I think he probably did it more for kicks than anything, but I liked it. He made a crank out of an old scissor jack handle welded to a 3/8"-drive palm ratchet with a socket that fit the crank pulley on it. With the engine being mounted sideways, he had to cut a hole in the wheel arch and always park with the steering wheel cranked all the way to the right in order to be able to have a straight shot to the crank pulley. But it worked.

 

[Tinkering With Tim]

I was missing the proper crankshaft nut to accept a hand crank on a Super W6. I bought a crank pulley bolt with the appropriate wings for the crank handle off Ebay - I think it was actually from an Allis of some sort. Cut the heads off, beveled for a good weld prep, then welded the Allis head to the head of the crank pulley bolt on the W6. The nut is the only part that could be semi-hard to fabricate yourself: the crank is just a bent 3/4" or 1" rod (will need some heat if bending yourself), and in the case of the W6 a larger (I think 2" diameter) piece of round bar bored through to centre it in the casting (Google the hand crank for a W6/Farmall M and you'll see what I mean).

Folks get pretty hot and bothered about crank-starting engines. Maybe I'm crass, but I never worried about it. Sometimes I crank start the W6 just for fun, and being a super model with fire craters in it it'd almost certainly break your wrist/arm if it was in the wrong spot and back-fired. Just be sure you're pulling up and have your fingers positioned so the crank will be pulled out of them if it backfires. I might take extra care if you knew your valve seats were a little worn or if your dizzy needed a tune-up.

I had a friend in university that put a crank on his old civic when the starter solenoid would occasionally stick, because he was too lazy/cheap to replace the starter (which was buried up behind the exhaust manifold and a pain to get at). Actually, I think he probably did it more for kicks than anything, but I liked it. He made a crank out of an old scissor jack handle welded to a 3/8"-drive palm ratchet with a socket that fit the crank pulley on it. With the engine being mounted sideways, he had to cut a hole in the wheel arch and always park with the steering wheel cranked all the way to the right in order to be able to have a straight shot to the crank pulley. But it worked.

This is for a Ford 860 and Ford 641 Tractor. It looks like the tractor is Crank Ready these 100 series just didn't come with the crank handle like their older brothers did. I'm sure it isn't as safe as sitting on the couch but that isn't the kind of guy I am either. They are made to crank over so I want to have the crank handle. LOL Mostly for fun, show and tell, and maintenance when it sits for a while and I just want to turn over the engine.