Hard steering on a 3000

[MDW]

Hello All,
I just looked at a Ford 3000 (1965) diesel as a step up from my 8N. The only problem is the steering on the 3000 makes my 49, 8N seem easy. The seller said someone told him the steering box has a couple of bushings that wear and cause hard steering. The question; is this true or do I need to figure a PS kit into the price. And I'm concerned if there is other damage in the box a PS kit might not be the answer.

Thanks for sharing your knowledge. MDW

 

[souNdguy]

is the box presently as manual box or ps box?

if manual, does the steering wwheel rise/fall as you steer lock to lock.. if so.. it likely needs thrust bearings.

common issue with the manual boxes.. most of the 'hard' work is in taking the tin and stering wheel off to actually get at the box.. etc.

soundugy

 

[MDW]

Presently it's manual. I didn't notice rising or falling movement in the steering wheel but that doesn't mean it didn't just, that I didn't know what to look for. It had to be rolling for any practical turning at all. I can't believe somebody used it since 1965 with the steering that stiff. The place where the pump goes didn't look like one had ever been there. Whether it needs a bushing or a ps/kit to make it useable has a big effect on whether it's a good deal or not so good. Thanks for the input.
MDW

 

[forddoc]

Make sure the spindle aren't seized, most grease zerts never see the end of a grese tube. I have yet to see one seize on cross shaft bushings, upper bearing could have failed but that usually leads to turning hard one way. Try jacking it up if he will let you to check front axle over. Probably just another case of poor maintence, if so look alittle closer at everything.

 

[MDW]

Thanks forddoc. That sounds good.
MDW

 

[TimMiller]

Ours is hard also. I replaced the bearings (not a cheap job) and rebuilt the box. The steering has about a 1/4 turn of play in it. I have tried adjusting everything i think on the box without any luck.

 

[MDW]

Thanks TimMiller,
It's good to know I can't count on a box rebuild to solve the problem unless I'm lucky. Do you mind, roughly what is the cost of a steering box overhaul (just parts).
MDW

 

[TimMiller]

If i remember it came out to be around 200. Getting the steering box off was the hardest part. I think i know where i went wrong as far as shiming the load on the bearings. Once i get our other tractor back together I think i'm going to try reshiming the box. The ford manual was not very clear on how to do that. I learned if you dont shim it enough the steering is very tight, if you do it too much then there is tons of slop. I think when i decided to call it ok, i shimmed it a little too much. It didnt seem to be so hard when i first built it but i think the shims packed down harder and made it hard to turn.

 

[MDW]

Thanks for the additional info. Wish I had known everything y'all have told me when I looked at it the first time.
MDW

 

[MDW]

Just an update: I now own the previously mentioned beast. With her front wheels off the ground she turns real easy to the right but going left the steering becomes stiffer the further it's turned. Does that ring any bells? It will be a month or two before I can tear into the box. Have a manual ordered and will be back to share what I learn.
Thanks .. MDW

 

[MDW]

Well I got the time to get into the box. As Y'all said the bearings were shot. Also found about a dozen of the balls in the bottom with a few of the roller bearings. The balls had pushed one of the split tubes apart and escaped. Have new bearings in hand and ready to start putting her back together. Everything else looks OK. I can bend the tube back good enough I think. Any tricks to getting those 60 balls back where they go?
Thanks, Matt

 

[TimMiller]

When i pulled ours apart there were only 2 bearings. The upper and lower. I do not recall any others. Pics would be great. I just threw out the balls that came out of the old bearings when i installed the new ones. Only other bearing i can think of is in the ball and socket assembly where the block travels up and down the worm gear. That assembly is unserviceable and has to be replaced as a complete assembly.

 

[Hobo,NC]

Been 30 years since I made the mistake of removing them,,, did get the balls back in,,, took 4 hands and some fiddling but they will go back in.

I will try and scan a page from a old motors manual on the procedure

 

[MDW]

I got them all back in! Not real sure how , a page describing the procedure would be interesting to see. I did figure out the tubes need to be smooth so the balls can flow and packing the tubes with a minimum amount grease to hold the balls helps get them more into the middle of the nut so that they don't work out the ends of the nut as it travels up and down the worm. Gear all back together now and on the tractor for the second time. After the first time I remembered that I hadn't tightened the bolts on the strap that retains the tubes as I was working on getting the balls back with the bolts only finger tight. Now all that aggravating sheet metal and wires!
Thanks..Matt

 

[Hobo,NC]

(quoted from post at 16:52:02 10/07/09) I got them all back in! Not real sure how , a page describing the procedure would be interesting to see. I did figure out the tubes need to be smooth so the balls can flow and packing the tubes with a minimum amount grease to hold the balls helps get them more into the middle of the nut so that they don't work out the ends of the nut as it travels up and down the worm. Gear all back together now and on the tractor for the second time. After the first time I remembered that I hadn't tightened the bolts on the strap that retains the tubes as I was working on getting the balls back with the bolts only finger tight. Now all that aggravating sheet metal and wires!
Thanks..Matt

I scanned the page and it came out OK,,, its not good once I saved it on the puter,,, email me and I will try and get it were it can B read

 

[MDW]

Thanks Hobo,NC,
I appreciate your effort to share the info (what great people here). Scanning sometimes is a hassle for me.

TimMiller, Did you get your's working better? I'm in under $50 so far, bearings and new oil seemed to be all it needed. Steers real smooth and easy with very little slack off the ground. I'll know more when I get all that other stuff back and can try it on the ground.

Question: I was pricing add on PS at the shop where I picked up the bearings, the mechanic there advised that if the spindle steering arms are cut and an 1-3/4" piece is welded in it will make a tremendous difference. He said if that is done I wouldn't want PS. Anyone ever heard of such? Kinda makes sense, while a little hesitant I'm considering it. May try to scrounge up an extra set of arms and try it.
Thanks .. Matt