Harmonic balancer puller; what do you use?

ErnieD

Member
I am disappointed at how little it took to strip out the duck foot on my harmonic balancer puller. What have you all had good luck with?
 
Last edited:
Duck foot?
Like on a 2 or 3 jaw puller?
I use one that uses 2 or 3 bolts in the pulley mount holes. I was told not to pull on the outer part on the outside of the rubber. I always oil the screw to keep from stipping it as well.
 
I am disappointed at how little it took to strip out the duck foot on my harmonic balancer. What have you all had good luck with?
Mine is either snap on or Mac just forget now. But u must keep the threads oiled. I oil mine with gear oil. And use the impact on it and no damage yet. But get a cheap Chinese brand and sure u will strip the threads. When it comes to pullers cheap ones don’t last.
 
Mine is a steel plate that I set a shaft or socket in there against the end of the crank or over the head of the bolt with it backed out some then pull with the bolts in the threaded holes on the center section of the pulley. I've not bought a puller for those. I have usually made most of my pullers for specific jobs from plate and long bolts ot put shaft under the plate depending on what and how I'm pulling. if you pull on the outside rim you stand a good chance of pulling the rim off and still not have he center off. I don't know that if you marked it you could still press it back together either.
 
I used it on a Ford 3000 gasser. Dodge 2500 RAM 5.7 stripped the cross bar/duck foot.
Next time buy an OTC, Snap on or other USA name brand and cry once when you buy it instead of every time it is used. I have a few cheap tools, they have thier place but pullers isn't one of them.
 
I used it on a Ford 3000 gasser. Dodge 2500 RAM 5.7 stripped the cross bar/duck foot.
Chrysler was the first I saw to use a clip in design and nothing else would do the job. Others followed suit with that design about the only difference was they used a different pilot. This is like the Vacuum tool used to fill a coolant systems that some just don't see the need for are you going to fudge with it all day are perform the job in a few minuets. Its the cost of doing businesses.
 
I suggest that Mr. E.D. re post without the silly slang? "Duck Foot?" If one knows enough about his craft to inject such slang , he had ought to then know enough to not require basic assistance. I trust myself, and many others here, could assist if Mr. E.D. will use proper and most basic terminology! The protracted death of the "old-iron" hobby need not be hastened by the refusal to simply communicate with basic and accurate words and phrasing. That is, in "hillbilly speak": if a retired engineer with several tractors can not understand you, ya ain't talking right.
 
Duck foot?
Like on a 2 or 3 jaw puller?
I use one that uses 2 or 3 bolts in the pulley mount holes. I was told not to pull on the outer part on the outside of the rubber. I always oil the screw to keep from stipping it as well.
Quack quack:
1740239269411.png
 
Tools need love too, I use high pressure lube on all of the puller pressure screws they appreciate it. Harbor Freight has a decent puller/installer that will do the job.
 
Mine is a steel plate that I set a shaft or socket in there against the end of the crank or over the head of the bolt with it backed out some then pull with the bolts in the threaded holes on the center section of the pulley. I've not bought a puller for those. I have usually made most of my pullers for specific jobs from plate and long bolts ot put shaft under the plate depending on what and how I'm pulling. if you pull on the outside rim you stand a good chance of pulling the rim off and still not have he center off. I don't know that if you marked it you could still press it back together either.
Like Catguy, I used a chunk of 1/2" plate steel, drilled the appropriate 3 holes to fit my vibration dampener, and used those bolts to pull the plate against a socket on the end of the crank. Then I upgraded it by drilling a center hole and welding a large, fine thread nut on so I could put a heavy bolt through the center, to tighten against the crank. steve
 
Chrysler was the first I saw to use a clip in design and nothing else would do the job. Others followed suit with that design about the only difference was they used a different pilot. This is like the Vacuum tool used to fill a coolant systems that some just don't see the need for are you going to fudge with it all day are perform the job in a few minuets. Its the cost of doing businesses.
Thank you for the insight. It is my son in laws back up plow truck, main truck is waiting for a new transmission, and this rig is getting new lifters. We were working late and using what I provided in the shop. I saw the clip in pullers and they had all sorta mixed reviews. I did put moly grease on the threads and my old style puller was a SEARS unit. We now know where SEARS went.

The 3000 brake shoes you sold me went in fine. We did end up servicing both side, the axle bearing on the side that did not leak was bad. We did end up making a 27" deep socket and a custom puller to service the seals.
 
I suggest that Mr. E.D. re post without the silly slang? "Duck Foot?" If one knows enough about his craft to inject such slang , he had ought to then know enough to not require basic assistance. I trust myself, and many others here, could assist if Mr. E.D. will use proper and most basic terminology! The protracted death of the "old-iron" hobby need not be hastened by the refusal to simply communicate with basic and accurate words and phrasing. That is, in "hillbilly speak": if a retired engineer with several tractors can not understand you, ya ain't talking right.
I sure hope your day was not ruined by my post.
 
Tools need love too, I use high pressure lube on all of the puller pressure screws they appreciate it. Harbor Freight has a decent puller/installer that will do the job.
Thank you for the reply. This was a Sears unit and served me well until it got RAMed. I did put moly grease on it.
 
I've not pulled one of those balancers, some Chryslers went to using a 3 jaw puller for balancers and you need a spacer to push against the crank.
 
Think ahead a step or two, and consider how the new balancer will be installed. That's often where things start to go badly.

Pulling is usually pretty straightforward, unless you happen to be working on one of those wrong-wheel-drive sidewinder engines, where the balancer is snugly up against a subframe rail.
 
Yesterday's Tractor Forums

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top