Has anyone ever tried?

Mtjohnso

Member
On the Farmall H, M and 300 and 350 and probably other models they had an adjustable Vbelt pulley for taking up the slack in the Vbelt.
The threads on the adjustable pulley are fine. There is a locking screw to hold it in place. However the adjustable pulley seems to be rusted or oxidized to where it will not move.
I have used heat from a propane torch and penetrating oil. No success yet
So one thought was to use an ultrasonic cleaner and put the pulley assembly in a gallon ziplock bag with ATF and a thinner to help penetrate and place in the ultrasonic cleaner. The cleaner heats to 50C and vibrates at 15Khz. Thinking that might allow the ATF to work down in the threads and loosen things up.
Thoughts? Crazy? maybe work?
 
On the Farmall H, M and 300 and 350 and probably other models they had an adjustable Vbelt pulley for taking up the slack in the Vbelt.
The threads on the adjustable pulley are fine. There is a locking screw to hold it in place. However the adjustable pulley seems to be rusted or oxidized to where it will not move.
I have used heat from a propane torch and penetrating oil. No success yet
So one thought was to use an ultrasonic cleaner and put the pulley assembly in a gallon ziplock bag with ATF and a thinner to help penetrate and place in the ultrasonic cleaner. The cleaner heats to 50C and vibrates at 15Khz. Thinking that might allow the ATF to work down in the threads and loosen things up.
Thoughts? Crazy? maybe work?
Most of the time the penetrant and heat work enough that modest tapping with a brass or aluminum drift/strip from tighten to loosen (maybe 50 repeats) will break it loose. If I had it separated from the water pump, I would try that method. Jim
 
Home owner/plumber propane torches heat so slowly that both parts expand at the same rate. Take a 16oz hammer and pound sharply on the areas over the threads between the web lugs towards the center of the hub. Anything to jar the interface between the threads. Hopefully your US cleaner trick will work.
 
On the Farmall H, M and 300 and 350 and probably other models they had an adjustable Vbelt pulley for taking up the slack in the Vbelt.
The threads on the adjustable pulley are fine. There is a locking screw to hold it in place. However the adjustable pulley seems to be rusted or oxidized to where it will not move.
I have used heat from a propane torch and penetrating oil. No success yet
So one thought was to use an ultrasonic cleaner and put the pulley assembly in a gallon ziplock bag with ATF and a thinner to help penetrate and place in the ultrasonic cleaner. The cleaner heats to 50C and vibrates at 15Khz. Thinking that might allow the ATF to work down in the threads and loosen things up.
Thoughts? Crazy? maybe work?
Do you have a raised lump on the opposite side from the set screw? That's where I put the brass punch to break it loose. Didn't even use heat or snake oil. Once it broke loose, it turned off by hand, then I wire wheeled the threads clean. Just make sure you back the set screw out far enough to clear the groove it's probably set into. The groove is covered by the threaded part. It's not obvious until you turn it off. I think there are 4 grooves so you can adjust it in 90 degree increments. This was on a Massey Harris, but it sounds like the same adjustable pulley. steve
 
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On the Farmall H, M and 300 and 350 and probably other models they had an adjustable Vbelt pulley for taking up the slack in the Vbelt.
The threads on the adjustable pulley are fine. There is a locking screw to hold it in place. However the adjustable pulley seems to be rusted or oxidized to where it will not move.
I have used heat from a propane torch and penetrating oil. No success yet
So one thought was to use an ultrasonic cleaner and put the pulley assembly in a gallon ziplock bag with ATF and a thinner to help penetrate and place in the ultrasonic cleaner. The cleaner heats to 50C and vibrates at 15Khz. Thinking that might allow the ATF to work down in the threads and loosen things up.
Thoughts? Crazy? maybe work?
I finally fabricated an adjustable idler pulley on one of my H's.
 
Home owner/plumber propane torches heat so slowly that both parts expand at the same rate. Take a 16oz hammer and pound sharply on the areas over the threads between the web lugs towards the center of the hub. Anything to jar the interface between the threads. Hopefully your US cleaner trick will work.
Is it possible to safely adjust the belt tension without taking the radiator ,etal and cowling apart ?
 
I just went through that on my Super M last winter, I did have the hood off but was able to get the pulley loose and change the fan belt and the radiator hoses without removing the cowl or radiator. I did like stevieb and hit on the tab opposite of the setscrew, tapped it both ways from that tab and come loose pretty easy, I used plenty of atf/acetone mix on it. I then wire brushed the threads while turning the pulley back and forth. Finally used plenty of antisieze on the threads of the pulley and turning it back and forth several times with no belt on it.
 
Would you be so kind and share what you fabricated, mine just got wonky and is in need of adjustment ? Thanks !!
Hello Allen, welcome to YT! Is it the fan or generator belt you are needing to tighten? Either one can be difficult to get freed up to tighten the belts it just depends on how tightly the pulley is stuck. I can hardly believe you will have much success working on the generator pulley with the hood on. The fan pulley can be accessed fairly good without removing any sheet metal. Which tractor model do you have? None of them are to hard to remove, the letter series tractors it depends on how hard the muffler is stuck on the pipe. The x00 and x50 series it just a dozen or so bolts, if you still have some of the Phillips headed bolts if they are stuck it can be a pain.
 
Hello Allen, welcome to YT! Is it the fan or generator belt you are needing to tighten? Either one can be difficult to get freed up to tighten the belts it just depends on how tightly the pulley is stuck. I can hardly believe you will have much success working on the generator pulley with the hood on. The fan pulley can be accessed fairly good without removing any sheet metal. Which tractor model do you have? None of them are to hard to remove, the letter series tractors it depends on how hard the muffler is stuck on the pipe. The x00 and x50 series it just a dozen or so bolts, if you still have some of the Phillips headed bolts if they are stuck it can be a pain.
Thanks for your input...it's the fan belt as we changed to an alternator after fooling around with a generator for too long. Any tips on how to access and not bend the blades or hurt the radiator ?
 
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