hauling equipment

[1956 chevy]

got a question about hauling equipment. I just got 2 hay bailer disk mower and hay wagon,, can i haul the equipment be pulled on the hay wagon i live 2 hours away how fast can a hay wagon be pulled. thanks for the help.Ray

 

[Scott 730]

Depends on how good your running gear is. I've pulled some at 60 mph, others take up 2 lanes at 15 mph. YMMV.

 

[Brian G. NY]

Depends on how good your running gear is. I've pulled some at 60 mph, others take up 2 lanes at 15 mph. YMMV.

Yeah......I think a 2 hour drive may turn out to be significantly longer.
I would stay off highly travelled roads and don't even think about towing at 60 MPH!

 

[Fordy20]

Depends how much of a risk you want to take. Something you need to evaluate yourself as only you know what condition your equipment is in.

 

[matthies]

The wagon would fit on most car trailers, unless it has tall sides. Strap the mower on the wagon and put the wagon on the car trailer.

 

[DoubleO7]

The wagon would fit on most car trailers, unless it has tall sides. Strap the mower on the wagon and put the wagon on the car trailer.

What about the two hay balers?

 

[Northvale PA]

If you plan to drive anything 2 hours take a jack, wood blocks, tools and a spare tire. Check all the lug nuts before you get on the road. I’ve had flat tires, loose bolts and at least two broken axles on towed equipment over the years. Yes, do your best to stay off busy roads but back roads have bumps, potholes and nowhere to pull over. Maybe consider driving early in the morning during the weekend.

 

[paul]

It’s going to depend on the condition of the hay wagon, especially the running gear. And the tires.

If I understand you right, you got 2 balers and 1 disc mower and one hay rack.

I doubt very very much you can fit ore than 1 of those on the hay rack physically. As well as the weight.

Typically a hay rack is an older wore out running gear, and might sway pretty bad at over 25 miles per hour. It takes a really god running gear to handle 45 miles per hour.

I have hauled and towed a lot of farm machinery in my day.

I would not try this in any way.

Perhaps if we know the models of the mower and the balers, we would have a better idea of the size and weight of stuff you have? And then a picture of the hay rack, would show us the tires and general size and condition of the hay rack.

Pick up the tongue of the hay rack and wiggle it side to side. If it moves much of any wiggle at all without turning the front wheels, like even just a little bit, you will have a long slow tow home empty as it will want to skid sideways at even slow speeds, like 25 mph.

Paul

 

[cjunrau]

got a question about hauling equipment. I just got 2 hay bailer disk mower and hay wagon,, can i haul the equipment be pulled on the hay wagon i live 2 hours away how fast can a hay wagon be pulled. thanks for the help.Ray

I would put the wagon on a different trailer to haul unless it's in real good shape. the balers I would put highway tires on and pull as fast as it would go without swaying the tail. The mower I do not know what type it is, if it fit on the wagon I would load on top of that once it was on a different trailer. It will take a couple trips unless you can get someone else to pull some of it. The other option is use a tractor and hook the 2 balers back to back with wagon with mower on top behind that and drive it home. sometimes a tractor ride is faster than all the running around tying to do it with a pickup.

 

[paul]

I would put the wagon on a different trailer to haul unless it's in real good shape. the balers I would put highway tires on and pull as fast as it would go without swaying the tail. The mower I do not know what type it is, if it fit on the wagon I would load on top of that once it was on a different trailer. It will take a couple trips unless you can get someone else to pull some of it. The other option is use a tractor and hook the 2 balers back to back with wagon with mower on top behind that and drive it home. sometimes a tractor ride is faster than all the running around tying to do it with a pickup.

We aren’t really sure if these are square or round balers, or the import mini round balers.

Total lack of info here. I’m guilty of that myself, I know what I’m talking about everyone should read my mind right?

In my state it is illegal to have more than 2 hitch pins, or two implements behind a tractor, and only 2 wagons behind a pickup if they are empty, not 2 heavy things on hitch pins. Need to see what state laws are on that.

I have driven a tractor 60 miles to bring an implement home, so I sure understand your thoughts on this.

Paul

 

[JOCCO]

Also check your state laws on moving farm equipment.

 

[MN valley man]

When I did a lot of baling back in the 80s and 90s I had to pull some farmer's wagons quite a ways and often ran into the loose steering that you may encounter. I learned a little trick to make them pull straight behind the pickup by hooking up the wagon and then back up just so it begins to turn. Then attach one end of a tow chain to the pickup near where you hooked up and fasten the other end to a point near the end of the front axle, keeping the chain tight so it would not let the wagon wander. By then driving rather carefully the wagon would turn slightly against the chain and follow very well.

 

[showcrop]

Mowers tend to be wide. Once you put anything on any road trailer it is not farm equipment. It becomes freight. I have hauled a baler and two mowers two and a half hours interstate. I got over-width permits from my state DOT. I put on lights and a sign, made sure my tires and bearings were good, then followed the route that they gave me. A lot of the route each time was interstate. I got off though for tire and bearing checks.

 

[caterpillar guy]

Mower can be a lot of things. If I could load the mower lengthwise so it didn't hang over the edge of the wagon and the wagon is not over 102 inches wide I would load the mower tie it down then put it behind one baler now all you have to get is one baler. This is all assuming they are square balers. IF not then Load a baler and pull it on the wagon and then trailer the other baler and mower on a trailer. IF big square balers then it will be a 3 trip deal. If not cold weather or have a cab tractro of size to pull and stop with. I would load the mower and pull wagon with pickup and pull baler with tractor then take tractor back for the last baler if big square balers. Tractor will also need to be 102 or less wide for legal load.

 

[paul]

Mower can be a lot of things. If I could load the mower lengthwise so it didn't hang over the edge of the wagon and the wagon is not over 102 inches wide I would load the mower tie it down then put it behind one baler now all you have to get is one baler. This is all assuming they are square balers. IF not then Load a baler and pull it on the wagon and then trailer the other baler and mower on a trailer. IF big square balers then it will be a 3 trip deal. If not cold weather or have a cab tractro of size to pull and stop with. I would load the mower and pull wagon with pickup and pull baler with tractor then take tractor back for the last baler if big square balers. Tractor will also need to be 102 or less wide for legal load.

Most generally agree with you.

In my state a farm tractor (or other self propelled ag machine) pulling anything ag related has a whole lot of Lee way as to width and length and all. While laws change, when I last read through the rules in my state you could be 20 feet wide before you needed any special flagging or escort.

But don’t go on an interstate! And some few state highways have a minimum speed as well can’t be on them.

What is miserable is getting through towns and river crossings, one has to scout out your path to get through or around these areas as best one can,

In my travels with machinery I look for good county roads with smooth shoulders, tarred shoulders are great, smooth gravel are ok; those with almost no shoulders or big drop off to the shoulder are miserable to travel with farm equipment. I’ll often take a good gravel road, they can be a lot easier on the farm tires and smoother than a pothole tar road.

I has an 80 mile drive with a gleaner combine with no head on it. Got to a tar road and the right tire was right on the crack between the lane and the shoulder. It threw me one way or the other, terrible. Got onto a paved road with gravel shoulder. Every driveway had a very high tar approach that would send me airborne if I was in the gravel shoulder with the right tire, if I stayed on the tar the left side of the combine was on or over the center line. Terrible too. With no header the combine was very Bucky, wanted to wander and bounce on potholes.

Really 5 miles into that ride I was ready to park and just walk the 75 miles home, forget about the combine….

Found a network of gravel roads that headed the right direction and it turned into a pleasant and smooth drive.

Paul

 

[1948CaseVAI]

Also check your state laws on moving farm equipment.

This. If you load all that equipment onto a typical farmer trailer/truck outfit you will look like the Beverly Hillbillies going down the road and the Kansas Highway Patrol will be on you in a quicik minute, drawn by the appearance. You may not not get snagged for a ticket or fine, but they will check everything about your load and it will cost you about an hour of time. Don't even thinkk of going onto federal highways or interstates.

 

[Geo-TH,In]

Impeding Traffic by Driving Too Slowly

How state laws define "impeding traffic," when you're required to move over for faster-moving vehicles, and the fines and other penalties for an impeding ticket

www.alllaw.com