No not yet I'm Waiting for my torch to get back so I can apply alittle heat,I tried some penatrating oil and visegrips but not I think alittel heat from the blue wrench is in order.
 
(quoted from post at 10:18:14 01/03/10) No not yet I'm Waiting for my torch to get back so I can apply alittle heat,I tried some penatrating oil and visegrips but not I think alittel heat from the blue wrench is in order.

At the risk of telling you something you already know here is how I approach the problem.

The example stud I removed was too rusted in to break loose with vice-grips so I used that little 10" pipe wrench that bites a lot better and offers more leverage. In general the studs don't wring off breaking them loose - they wring off when the rusted end that protrudes into the water jacket binds in the threads - applying more heat and/or leverage at that point is a recipe for disaster. Almost immediately after you break the stud loose you will feel increased resistance as the rusted section starts to jam the threads - [b:a9661ed339][u:a9661ed339]STOP RIGHT THERE[/u:a9661ed339][/b:a9661ed339]. If you try to muscle it out your buddy will be telling you "I told you so". Turn the stud back in to it's original position - this will help clear the threads of rust. Then again unscrew the stud - it should come out a bit further before it binds again. Screw it back in as before to clear the threads. Repeat this procedure until the stud is removed - it should unscrerw a bit further each time. Generally once you have it backed out clear of the water jacket it will unscrew the rest of the way without issue. But if it does binds resist the temptation to muscle it the rest of the way out - that will likely result in a very unhappy outcome.

HTH,

TOH
 
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