Headlight Rewiring Question

JohnC IND

Member
On my new to me '50 8N 6V Pos Ground tractor, with original Tract-O-Lites, I'd like to run a hot wire AND ground wire to keep 'em bright. Can I get away with using 18 AWG two conductor wire (Which fits through the mounting bolt) and ground the one conductor to the GRND terminal on the Generator? Anyone see an error in my ways here? Thanks!
 
John,Using 18 Ga. would not be best as it is to light gauge for 6 volt headlites.Use at least 14 Ga.wire.Then you can run a separate ground from the back of the mount bolt with a eyelet under the nut to a good ground on the engine.shine up the rusty e bolts and the headlite bucket where the bolt grounds on the bucket.Then coat the bolt with battery protector or a coat of grease to stop corrosion and rust.
 
John,

IF typical Tract-O-Lite uses about 55 watts per bulb (assuming you want it bright) then the amount of amps =..... W=VXA .....you know the volts and the watts - 55/6 = 9+ amps. I would ground the light (+) and run a little bigger wire (smaller number) back to switch and bat. If you need to run the lights with engine off you still can.
 

Electrical systems use smoke (lucus smoke)

In order to make electricity turn into light you obviously
need lighting fluid.

Blinker fluid is used in headlights only to get the strobing
effect like police vehicles. Otherwise, straight headlamp
fluid is the way to go.

It is universal headlamp fluid, in the same class as
blinker fluid. Most stores keep it in stock, right next to
their fine selection of tin-foil hats!

There is Bud light, Miller light, and a couple other
approved fluids

I never skimp on money. I always use Halogen fluid!

14 gauge would B my pick but make sure you get the rite weight,,, I think it's somewhere between brake fluid and
straight 20w. I'll have to read the can when I get back to
the shop.

WARNING :shock: all I know I read on the Internet,,, do it enuff and you can become a guru also,,, not responsible for damages,,, I read it and just pass it along,,, proceed with caution
 
You can use 18 AWG for each run to your lights, but for sake of having a more robust harness I suggest you use 16 AWG or 14 AWG.

If you use 18 AWG to your lights consider that tince twice the current will flow through the light switch. You will need a minimum of #16 AWG for the wire from your battery to the switch.
 
Clarification here...
I ran the purchased headlight harness (14 Ga?)to just over the generator, and picked up the 18 Ga wires there that run on into the Tract-O-Lites.
So the Left Light has under 12" of 18 Ga, and the right has approximately 3" or so.
I hooked the ground side up to the GRND terminal on the generator.
For the rear lights,I will run heavier stuff as was suggested here when I run the new wires to the taillight and worklight. I believe there is enough room in the loom for another conductor to get it back to the engine.
 
John.......sounds like a good plan, 14ga from the lite switch to the front of the tractor and then "T" short pieces of 18ga (stranded) into each headlite. DO NOT run yer lite switch from yer weaksister ignition switch. Run it from yer terminal block BAT connection. ......Dell
 
Yes, it's 18 ga. stranded. The 14 ga stranded is from the light switch and it's powered by a short piece of 14 or so from the terminal block. It had OEM lights hooked up with cloth covered wire when I got it, in the proper places... Is a 20-amp fuse the right size for the switch?
 
John.......yes, 20-amp glass fuse is proper size for headlites (only), probably 30-amps when you wire yer rear lite thru yer headlite switch. Fuse size is NOT CRITICAL as long as it "blows" when shorted. I have a 50-amp fuse on my VW Diesel glowplugs. Always carry a spare, 'cuz even lotta VW dealers don't have them in stock. I've NEVER blown the glowplug fuse, but sure makes starting eazier. I can't remember the size on my Dodge Cummins Diesel but they draw about 150-amps pre-heat. .......Dell
 
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