There's a number of brand that tend to be good Ruud is one. I believe that is what I have and it has worked pretty well for year now but when it is 100 out it works it hard. If you can get one that uses ground type help so it works even better as in a water loop under ground
 
My parents live in Vermont and have a Mitsubishi heat pump they have been very happy with. Make sure you get one specifically meant for cold climates. They can be energy efficient down to -5 or -10 degrees!
 
In eastern Canada popular brands are Fujitsu, Karda,Carrier,Kerr, LG,Mitsubishi,Dakin to name a few.
 
Rheem and rudd are the best out there for the money.I would never get a Carrier, I worked for the Co. for over 20 years, even with the Co. discount most people went with a different manufacturer.
 
I installed a Climate Master system in 2005 in Central Iowa.

If I had to do it again I would use solar passive heat and a high efficiency boiler system.

My reasons are this:

My horizontal ground loop system ran out of ground heat by March especially when we had little or no ground snow cover. ( use only a vertical well system)

It is not a comfortable heat I would characterize it as a cool heat.

It took me 12 years to recoup any savings.

Maximize southern exposure if you have it
 

Avoid York. Our HVAC guys stopped carrying them and were replacing them for no labor charge. Compressors didn't last and they got tired of servicing them. We had our York compressor replaced twice before they replaced the whole system. Don't recall the name of the replacement.
 
Here is my two cents take it for what it costs you. Why buy a Mercedes when a Ford or Chevy will do, for instance I see
Rudd, Rheem and Mitsubishi mentioned in other replies. Those are name brands and probably no question they are good. However, if you ever see a certain brand advertised on TV someone ..you.. are in part paying for that. My 1st home I had living in Kansas built in the 70s in a subdivision that for whatever reason was not piped with NG, so all electric. It had a Carrier heat pump which seemed fairly complex the compressor was in a closet downstairs with the air handler. It came to the point that the system would not defrost during the defrost cycle. After a few checks and recharge the system it was determined to be time to replace. Someone I trusted who was an electrician in our church recommended a local independent contractor who sold a brand named Temp Star. He said there are factories producing these units and they may put 3-4 or more names on the same units. I do not know for sure but I would almost bet the guy in Iowa who mentioned the brand Climate Master is probably the same scenario. The gentleman installed it and it ran well the remaining 6-8 years we lived in the house. This was in the 90s, I do not remember exactly but I did wait for him to be able to get a unit with a higher Seer efficiency rating I think it was 13. It certainly pulled more heat out of the winter time outdoor air and the A/C part cooled much better than the old Carrier. I checked a random Maine zip code 04240 and a Temp Star installer was available in that area.
 
Ask the dealer how much they charge for their annual service contract.

I was told it costs $100 for each split unit to clean annually.
 
Good Morning Steve, as said ITS HARD TO STOP A TRANE. As you already know living in a colder climate once the temp drops to a certain level an air to air heat pump isn't very efficient and when cold enough the emergency heat strip kicks on so you're heating with pure electric resistance heat WHICH IS LESS EFFICIENT THAN A HEAT PUMP SO LONG AS AND PROVIDED ITS NOT TOO COLD yielding only something like 3.41 BTU of heat energy per Watt of electric energy !!!!!!!!!! Now those who live in warmer climates do better with an air to air heat pump ....

Since the temp around 6 ft below the earth is like 56 degrees, a Geothermal Heat Pump is more efficient when it's cold, but they are expensive to install

Bottom line THERES NO FREE ENERGY LUNCH Other cost efficient methods such as super insulation, quality windows and air infiltration reduction can reduce heating cost REGARDLESS of heat source be it Wood or Coal or Gas or Heat Pumps or straight electric resistance heat ..........

As always TO EACH THEIR OWN choices of heating systems REGARDLESS of efficiency. FWIW over 50 years on different farms and homes Ive heated with wood, coal, corn, LP Gas, Natural Gas, Heat Pumps and now have my most cost effective being a Dual Fuel system that uses a heat pump when not too cold but Natural Gas when it is, WORKS GREAT

Its fun to see all the different opinions and choices of heating systems out there and what brand is best

Best wishes to all here KEEP WARM THIS WINTER but for now COOL

John T
 
John T
My boy thought nothing runs like a Trane.
He had an 1800 ft house in Plainfield and spent $7800
to upgrade his HP. No noticeable difference in his electric bill.

About 6 years ago he bought a one year old house in a new subdivision west side of Plainfield. The people who built the house installed all high efficiency Natural gas furnace, water heater, range and fireplace. 3600 ft house..

You will never sell him another Trane HP.
Cost him about the same to heat a house 2x bigger...
 
But Geeeeeeeee Whiz George, they said on TV Its hard to stop a Trane lol.. Like any other brands Ive heard BOTH good and bad so what you noted comes as no surprise.

Keep cool my friend

John T
 
Yep as I often note one can find an article on the internet in support of or opposing any certain topic, but it does provide food for thought (one way or the other) and keep the thread going. As I noted us YTers may know more than some self proclaimed experts or whats found on the net lol

Best wishes

John T
 
(quoted from post at 19:20:25 07/05/22) Who makes a good heat pump for Maine

All manufactures make a cheap line of product for the customer who wants the cheapest price instead of the lowest cost .
 
Yep as I often note one can find an article on the internet in support of or opposing any certain topic, but it does provide food for thought (one way or the other) and keep the thread going. As I noted us YTers may know more than some self proclaimed experts or whats found on the net lol

John T
 
Well well sure hate to wade in here but I have had TWO TRANE units and performance is un matched by anything else. I di over build or use a lot of insulation on this house but it also has a complete front with windows. Ait to air 5 ton heat pump with propane over when it drops below 15 degrees outside. Out heating is cheaper than the cooling in these 100 degree days. Nothing wrong with Trane brand units , in fact around here I would venture to say they have 50% of the market. Most new homes you see being built have heat pumps.
 
All I know about heat pumps is that if you have natural gas available, already piped to your home, you cannot afford to heat with anything else. And we have over 400 years of natural gas reserves already proven.
 
There are several good brands. But, a lot of the choices narrow down with more info, like insulation values and living space to be heated and cooled.

I used my first heat pump in '74. Old school with heat strips. built another home in 79 and again used heat pumps. Two this time. Both dual fuel, heat pump with propane aux heat.

In both cases they were chosen because natural gas was not available. BTW, when it is available it is always cheapest to operate.

I now have one small heat pump in a room added to my current home. It was more economical to install a separate unit than to upgrade the original ducted system. This one is of cheaper variety, Pioneer brand mini-split, self installed. only 12000btu but handles 600 sqft easily except for maybe 5-10 days per year when I kick on 1k of resistance baseboard heaters. Very low electric usage in normal cooling or heating mode. 4 years old with on fan motor failure 4 days after install. company provided new more by mail and I changed it. No issues since.

I have the tools to do the install and the total outlay for the unit delivered was just a little over 1k.

I do two annual services on it and my original AC and always have since the 70s. Same as a service contract would provide, check current draw and operating pressures, clean all coils with coil cleaning compound purchased from the local supply house.

If you have a smaller space to deal with, the mini splits are really attractive but the costs varies widely with brand. Mitsubishi is considered the best, with Daiken and others close behind. LG is a good brand also, but in my area there is almost no dealer technical support.
 
quote="Geo-TH,In"](quoted from post at 08:11:20 07/06/22) Ask the dealer how much they charge for their annual service contract.

I was told it costs $100 for each split unit to clean annually.[/quote]

That could be a deciding factor if the O.P. is considering that type.

He did not mention that type, maybe he is wanting central havc system to utilize his existing ductwork.
 
If I was considering a heat pump system, I would only go with a ground water system.
Makes no sense to go with the ones that concentrate sparse bt's from winter air for heat nor remove btu's from the air for summer cooling.

Well water is basically the same temperature year round.
 
I've never found a need for an annual maintenance fee from an AC company. Coil cleaning, pressure checks and amp draw DIY.

On the mini-splits, filters need to be cleaned monthly. Takes 5 min max. That keep junk out of the coils. A couple of times a year I spray coil with water and make sure it drains out. Once that's done, hit the coils with coil cleaner. Let sit for a few minutes and rinse with water. Then some water and bleach mix. This reminded me to clean my filters. Rinse with hot water, take a look at coil fins with a good strong light, clean as a pin, reinstall. Done.
 
I installed a Climate Master system in 2005 in Central Iowa.

If I had to do it again I would use solar passive heat and a high efficiency boiler system.

My reasons are this:

My horizontal ground loop system ran out of ground heat by March especially when we had little or no ground snow cover. ( use only a vertical well system)

It is not a comfortable heat I would characterize it as a cool heat.

It took me 12 years to recoup any savings.

Maximize southern exposure if you have it
 
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