Help...2n quit getting fire

[slim pickins]

Howdy fellers, Started the ol gal yesterday, she run for about a min. and died. No spark. I have done the round coil conversion with the old hollered out square can on it, she had been running great till now. I removed the positive lead off of the round coil. I put a test light between the positive lead and the battery ground. The light stays on when I crank it. Shouldnt the light blink indicatin the points are openin and closin? I checked the points and the gap and they look ok. Any ideas? Thanks, My tractor would be a pasture ornament without ya"ll.

 

[ZANE]

The insulator that is at the point where the condenser wire and the flat copper conductor mount with the screw can be shorted to ground.

If you had a volt meter you could connect the positive lead to the "Batt" terminal of the coil and the negative to ground and see what readings you get when the engine is turned over slowly. The reading should fluctuate from high to low voltage when the engine turns. If it stays the same, something is shorted in the distributor.

Zane

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 09:10:38 03/23/08) Howdy fellers, Started the ol gal yesterday, she run for about a min. and died. No spark. I have done the round coil conversion with the old hollered out square can on it, she had been running great till now. I removed the positive lead off of the round coil. I put a test light between the positive lead and the battery ground. The light stays on when I crank it. Shouldnt the light blink indicatin the points are openin and closin? I checked the points and the gap and they look ok. Any ideas? Thanks, My tractor would be a pasture ornament without ya"ll.

"I removed the positive lead off of the round coil. I put a test light between the positive lead and the battery ground."

No, no! You don't "remove the positive lead". Leave it connected AND connect the test light from coil to ground. Try both coil terminals one at a time as you crank over the engine, ignition on. Report back with results.