Help identify John Deere plow.

[Koolken]

New to plowing a bought this plow. I am looking for a confirmation if It's a F-130 or a 416a. Want to add trash boards and wondering if I need the plates that attach to the back of the mouldboard.. Not sure what they are called...so I can look for parts so they will fit.

 

[jwal10]

F-130. The key difference between the JD F-130 and 416A plows is their beam construction. The F-130 integral plow was made after 1961 with a welded box-beam frame. The 416A integral plow used a forged-beam, truss-style frame....James

John Deere 416 3pt. 3 bottom plow | Proxibid

Bid in a Proxibid online auction to acquire a John Deere 416 3pt. 3 bottom plow from Sullivan Auctioneers, LLC.

www.proxibid.com

 

[Koolken]

Want to use it for plowing down tall covercrop. Will the trashboards be enough and should I add the back piece.. The flaps.. that some have in the back of the mouldboards to help flip the soil? What are they called?

 

[paul]

Want to use it for plowing down tall covercrop. Will the trashboards be enough and should I add the back piece.. The flaps.. that some have in the back of the mouldboards to help flip the soil? What are they called?

cover boards I think?

Dad used a torch to cut old leaf springs in half and blow 2 holes in each half, bolted them on made pretty good cover boards.

Best way to deal with a tall cover crop was always to tie a good heavy long wire on each coulter bracket very near the coulter center. Let the stiff wire flow across and into the furrow long enough to hold the wire down into the furrow covered with dirt, the cover crop would be folded under the wire and covered up very nicely. You could turn right very easily, you had to be careful making the passes turning left on headlands as dropping the plow on the wires would cut them off and make them way too short.

I see you don’t even have coulters, I guess we will see how that works. I’d kind of want coulters…… and the wires for plowing down a cover crop. Wouldn’t need the trash boards or cover boards then, in my experience.

Paul

 

[Koolken]

Thanx Paul. I'll do some research on what you suggested. Or will it not work if I don't have the coulters? I'll flail mow it if it doesn't go through.

 

[paul]

I would not mow it.

Are you familiar with plowing?

What works here in my conditions sometimes is exact opposite in some one else’s conditions. So if you know what you are doing that is one thing.

But here, in my back yard. I would never mow it before plowing. Never. Oh gawd what a miserable day, never would I do that.

The wires need something to attach to, and the low bracket of the coulter is the perfect location to tie the wire to. I’m not sure how to make the wires work right without the coulters.

A quick search on the net shows they call cover boards and trash boards the same thing, so I’m not sure what those tail brackets on the ends of the molboards to help curl the ground over are called then?

Paul

 

[paul]

Here is an old thread on covering wires from a decade ago.

Viewing a thread - A moldboard plowing question - pulling a wire

And a page from an old plow book on the practice.

Paul

 

[Koolken]

I have done a bit the last 2 years with a small 2 bottom plow.. Was pretty rough to say the least. Haven't studied it at all till I bought this 3 bottom and want to start doing it right. Got a 10 acre garden that I will use it on.

 

[Deere combine]

F125 and f130 look the same but f130 is high clearance

 

[spacechem]

New to plowing a bought this plow. I am looking for a confirmation if It's a F-130 or a 416a. Want to add trash boards and wondering if I need the plates that attach to the back of the mouldboard.. Not sure what they are called...so I can look for parts so they will fit.

Plow bottoms are in a separate parts catalog here.

I think what you refer to with "plates that attach to the back of the moldboard" are called moldboard extensions- key #1 on the page I linked above. I'd be very surprised if they're still available from Deere and you probably don't need them. I would advise full-cut shares.

You may, however, need coulters to do a good job. The wire trick from another poster is a good one, though I've never tried/needed them. Without coulters to attach the wires, weed hooks might help- it's the same principle- illustrated here. Probably you would have to make your own, but they don't look too complicated.

Don't mess with trying to find/use jointers, and of course they only work with coulters. I've never seen them anywhere but a scrap pile. Another tip: Your next pass after plowing should be traveling in the same direction. Going the other way could tend to lay the cut slice back over as it started.

 

[paul]

Plow bottoms are in a separate parts catalog here.

I think what you refer to with "plates that attach to the back of the moldboard" are called moldboard extensions- key #1 on the page I linked above. I'd be very surprised if they're still available from Deere and you probably don't need them. I would advise full-cut shares.

You may, however, need coulters to do a good job. The wire trick from another poster is a good one, though I've never tried/needed them. Without coulters to attach the wires, weed hooks might help- it's the same principle- illustrated here. Probably you would have to make your own, but they don't look too complicated.

Don't mess with trying to find/use jointers, and of course they only work with coulters. I've never seen them anywhere but a scrap pile. Another tip: Your next pass after plowing should be traveling in the same direction. Going the other way could tend to lay the cut slice back over as it started.

Wow, $40 to 60 per extension, now that we know what they are called. Yikes for a strap of iron with 2 holes and a little bend in it.

Paul

 

[caterpillar guy]

Use an Oliver plow and it will turn it under without all that nonsense. We have both a Deere plow with the squre/rectangle beam frame and an old Oliver plow and it will turn trash under better than the Deerewith cover boards. And the cover boards got lost off as they wore out since all they were god for was banging my head on while changing points or tearing pant legs working around it. Never missed them either just could not plow trash well with it. In heavy trash all coulter do is hold it there so it wads in between the coulter blade and the bottom till you tramp it out or raise up and go around to shake it out. Coulter suck period. I used to let them go to the junk pile best place for them.

 

[Koolken]

Thanx for all your insight Gentlemen. Much appreciated!

 

[Koolken]

So cause i don't have coulters to attach the wire to.. will it work attaching the wire to the frame or will that be too high? should i maybe attach a bar where the coulter should be about 6 inches down from frame and attach wire there?

 

[jwal10]

We always ran the cushioned concave disk coulters but that was later after they came on the 1350-1450 JD semi mount plows. Made a JD plow great. Best ever were 1450 5-18" in furrow plow behind 4240 JD, powershift. Had to be set just right but it really helped them track and run right. No need for any other attachments. I ran them on a 3-16" 3pt plow behind my 3020. We tried all the tricks on IHC 535 and 545 plows, never plowed as good as a 1350-1450 JD with just the cushioned concave coulters. I had a 4 bottom 3pt Oliver plow with radex bottoms behind my 4020, problem here was they wanted to push the slice instead of roll it under, stand the furrow up. It had a cushioned concave coulter, too. I always felt that I couldn't run fast enough to roll it good in the fall after the rains started....James

 

[300guy]

As a young kid all the way into college I plowed our tall (3 to 4 feet) sweet clover using wires. I attached fairly long wires to the frame of the plow so they were well buried in the turned over furrow. Worked great and most of the time there wasn't any clover sticking up out of the furrow. All of it was buried.