HELP Massey 165 won't run

[Blowefosho]

Well here I am again. It seems like it has been nonstop with this tractor. Ive had a lot of issues but for the past couple months the tractor has ran the best it ever has since I got it. I thought I finally had everything squared away. Then out of nowhere a couple weeks ago the tractor died on me while grading and I haven't been able to get it to run since. It will try to start an occasion only spit and sputter and run extremely rough until it dies. That's all I can get it to do. I have done everything I know to do so I need new ideas or something. I have had the carb apart at least 5 times and have checked and double checked the float level. I've cleaned the carb and put a new seat and needle in etc. The carb was brand new as of earlier this year anyway and and I am definitely getting fuel. As far as my Ignition system goes, it has a new coil, wires,points, condenser, and plugs. I've triple checked the plug gap and cleaned them. I've double checked the new coil. I've checked spark at every plug and have a good blue spark. I've checked the compression on each cylinder and have normal consistent compression. I've checked the timing on the distributor it appears that it is timed close enough to get it running at least. Points are gapped properly on distributor I have even replaced the cap and rotor. Everything on the ignition system seems to be functioning perfect. I have fuel and I have spark, which leaves me with air. My next thought was well maybe I have an intake valve not opening or something along that line to where it won't pull vacuum. I removed the valve cover earlier this evening and cranked it over and watched all the valves operate. there are no valves stuck open or closed. And there is nothing obviously wrong at least. What am I missing? What do I look at next? Someone help please!

 

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Your wires should be a copper core center wire and not a silicone based conductor. You didn't mention if your plugs are discolored but I assume they are consistent. Do you have a spark test tool to install in line with the plug and wire? It would be interesting to see if you actually have spark under compression. Also does the choke make any difference when it was running rough? You can eliminate a fuel issue if the choke has no change. If it does, you can almost be sure it's a fuel problem.

 

[used red MN]

..Your wires should be a copper core center wire and
not a silicone based conductor.. That is a bunch of
tractor guy, wives tail hooey if you think the fact that if
his spark plugs wires are not ..copper core.. that this is
keeping his tractor from running. And I really think you
mean to say ..carbon based conductor.. the silicone is
in the insulating sheaths. I have a Farmall M that I think
has a mix of copper core and carbon wires and it does
not miss a beat until cylinder 4 plug gets a bit to much
oil fouling on it. Many ..Kettering ignition.. machines
and on the road vehicles were put out from the factory
with carbon conductor resistor plug wires and they ran
fine for millions of hours or miles. Now a magneto is
different, they are more fussy about having copper
core wires.
I do not like it when people post the same topic on to
different forums but he did. Here is a link to that post
and the 3 or 4 cents I added there.
Same question on Tractor Talk

Some plug wire info

 

[RM-MN]

Your ignition points have a little corrosion on them. Remove them from the distributor and take a small piece of 600 grit wet and dry sandpaper which you will fold to have the grit on the outside. Pull this between the closed points several times, then reverse the fold and pull the paper side between the closed points several times again.