Help Me evaluate a International 140

[J Gooch]

I just discovered a 140 under shed not run in 1-2 years battery gone. I have never owned a International but am interested in this for garden. Please tell me any key points I need to check after we get it running. I will put it under load. What's weak about these tractors?
It's a 1971 model if serial is correct, good tires, rusty spots on some sheet metal, appears to have cultivators and fertilizer hopper and drive. All cultivators are rusty scattered under sheds for some time. If it runs and seems ok what's a value. Thanks for any help and info.

 

[Hobo,NC]

Location sure makes a difference in price. I have found quit a few in usable condition for around 2K, around here they fetch around 3500 up depends on condition. The price has came down cuzz not 2 many folks grow what they eat any more they had rather pic it at the grocery store.

For garden werk They are hard to beat but like any thing else its also work to change out the cultivators etc. I do it more for fun than anything else just cause I like to. The more I swap out tools and fiddle with it the EZ'er it gits. I did side dress my crops by hand this year cause i did not want to clean out the hopper and attachments but when my neighbour ask me to werk their garden I used the side dresser set up don't figger does it. So far I have been able to fix anything that's been broken, I have a 100 thats been thru the mill and farmerixed but its the best in the bunch, little by little I am makeing it persentable/useful altho its taken 15 plus years. Its not for sale but the rest are I have took a like'n to it and its part of the family. All it has to do is plant a little and cultivate it will never have to B werked hard again long as I am around, It has bout put the hoe in retirement.

If you like to garden they are hard to beat enjoy

 

[James Williams]

The best mowing tractor made

jimmy

 

[Jim in NC]

Check obvious things such as oil pressure, water in oil, and oil in radiator. Check for tightness in steering and front end play. Look for broken and welded, brazed cast iron parts around and on the front axle and supports as this is probably the weakest part of the tractor. Many front ends have been broken by crossing gulleys or towing with a chain. Also, check the final drive castings for breaks and cracks and the engine block area behind the carb. Tires are also important as they are very costly. Check transmission as it may be full of water from sitting and condensation. As others have said, they are very handy as long as they are used within their means.
Make sure you can find as much of the cultivators, fertilizer distributor, and fast hitch parts that you can. These can be very expensive if you have to buy pieces to complete the setup.

 

[Haas]

Jim in NC pretty well covered it. The most common problem is play in the steering, or broken castings. The 140 is a great little tractor when used within it's limits. In addtition to what Jim said, be sure to drive it around and check the transmission for noise. Whine is normal, but louder noise is not. If the oiler gear in the transmission is bad, you have to take everything in the back end apart to replace it. A bad oiler gear won't affect the operation unless you are doing stationary PTO or belt work. The oiler gear is only needed when the transmission is in neutral to oil the bearings and gears. These tractors usually sell from $2000 to $5000, with a common price being around $3000, depending on the condition and your location. They sell higher in the Southeast, as they are used a lot for tobacco farming. The plus side to that is many of them were only used once a year to cultivate and side dress tobacco so they don't have a lot of hours. Since you have had to get it running yourself, the price should be towards the lower end. A plus is the implements that come with it and also a plus if it has the one point fast hitch. With a Woods belly mower, the 140 is a great mowing tractor.

 

[Hugh MacKay]

J Gooch: What more can anyone say behind these guys. I just want to empathize Jim's last two sentences, make sure you gather up every minute piece that resembles cultivators, planters, side dresser or fast hitch. Don't overlook anything red or having traces of red or blue paint on it.

I've always viewed the tractor (SA, 100, 130 or 140) as having a basic value of $1,500. to $2,500. without a hitch. In that basic value sheet metal must be intact and solid, castings must not have any breaks or welds. All else can be rebuilt to new specs. Implements and attachments are the real value you get.

If I count the time and miles I put into acquiring attachments and implements, $30,000. would be a fair figure. I have close to 25 implements or attachments for 3 tractors, and I'm not through yet. That all started 45 years ago, however it has only been since 1990 that search for implements became intense. In 1990 I had 2 tractors, 2 plows and one set of cultivators. Over the years I have owned 6 of these offset tractors, some of them bought just to obtain an implement.

Now you see what the addiction entales, can you handle it?

 

[MikeyG]

Been reading the threads on 140 with excitement. Just bought my first one after 48 yrs of wanting a tractor. Farmall 140 #1105 J with ranger belly mower. Seems to all work fine. Just learned how to change plugs - AL386 - and wires in it myself. Then was told should have used AL388 hotter plugs? Do I want plain valvoline 80-90 in the steering, transmission, and PTO gear boxes or the Lucas high performance brand? When I changed crankcase oil, had about pint of water, then black thick goo come out. Replaced w SAE30ND oil. I love this machine. Will post some photos for the 140 addicts soon as I figure out how. Can't wait for the grass to grow again!
Mike in Beaver County, Raccoon Twp, PA.