Help me identify this tractor

[Bodaver32]

Hello,

I am a new member and new to tractors. I am not new to restoring older vehicles and machinery.

A buddy was parting with an old IH tractor and I couldn't let it pass. I continually have a project going.

The below pics are the tractor. I would like to identify it so that I can get the manuals. I believe it to be either a model 200 or 230. The tag on the left side is completely sanded or deteriorated so that no information is available on it.

I am leaning towards a 230 as it appears there is some white paint under in the area of where the emblems you have been. The thing has been repainted many times and is missing the model emblems.

Are there any identifiers that I should be looking for?

Some of the first things I would like to do is rebuild the carburetor and convert it to 12 volt. After I can get it going I would like to do a compression check on it.

I took the valve cover off and it look very clean.

I eventually would like to get it painted with new sheet metal.

 

[CNKS]

230, revision of 200, Super C, C. Assuming the sheet metal is original.

 

[Roger in Wisconsin]

Looks like a 200. If it was mine, I would get a muffler
before making it 12 volt.

 

[Bodaver32]

Yes a muffler is planned!

Is there anything outwardly that would distinguish it between a 200 or 230? Besides the emblems or paint...

 

[tractorsam]

Based on the hydraulic unit under the gas tank which is quite different than the one on a 200 I
would say you have a 230. A picture from the rear of the hitch would help confirm this. You can
also look for casting codes on all the major cast parts, they will have two numbers followed by a
letter and what looks like a screw head on each end. The letter indicates the year the piece was
cast 1955 is A so I think you'd expect to see either 'C' or 'D' on most pieces on a 230. Sam

 

[Andrew Z]

easy way to tell 200 vs 230. 200 has the older touch control unit with the rocker arms, same as Super A, C, Super C etc etc. The 230 has the newer hydra-touch hydraulic system, this unit does not have the rock shafts. Google 230 hydraulics and 200 hydraulics and compare.

Andrew

 

[Jim Becker]

The paint color isn't a very reliable indicator. Someone could have done a "spray can upgrade" to make it look like a later model.

The biggest indicator I am aware of that distinguishes the 200 from the 230 is the hydraulic system. The 200 had a Touch Control system essentially the same as the C and Super C. The 230 usually had a Hydra-touch system that was very different in features. Your tractor has a Hydra-touch system, makes it a 230. The Fast-Hitch on the back was changed a lot between the 2 models as well, but can't be seen in your pictures.

Most of the information on the serial number plate was silk screened on. It usually fades with time, often disappears completely. The serial number itself was stamped in. It usually survives. Can you see a number on your plate? The 200 serial numbers went from 501 to 15698. 230 serial numbers went from 501 to 7671. So if your number is greater than 7671 it wuld have to be a 200. There is also an engine number, stamped on a machined boss on the right side at the upper edge of the engine block. If the engine has never been changed, it will give a clue. The first 230 engine number was 36001. 200 engine numbers were 35131 or less.

The other indicator would be casting date codes. The codes were cast in and look something like (*10.26.B*). The two numbers are month and day, the letter indicates a year. This example decodes to October 26, 1956.
Z='54
A='55
B='56
C='57
D='58
One can be found low on the engine block, straight down from the engine number. Other large castings will have them one place or another. The dates will mostly cluster around a fairly narrow date range and (obviously) be somewhat before the tractor was built. If one is way different, that part was probably a replacement. Anything before about mid-1956 suggests a 200 while later dates suggest a 230.

The pictures strongly suggest a 230. If you are still unsure, get the Parts Catalog and start studying it. The 200 and 230 are both in the same catalog and you will need it anyway.

 

[Bodaver32]

Thank you all for the over whelming response. Many great leads for me to work on.

I paid $300 for the tractor and it seems like it was a decent deal and hope it to be a fun project.

I will let you know what I come up with...

 

[rustyfarmall]

(quoted from post at 07:53:59 10/26/15)
Thank you all for the over whelming response. Many great leads for me to work on.

I paid $300 for the tractor and it seems like it was a decent deal and hope it to be a fun project.

I will let you know what I come up with...

There is very easily $300 worth of tires on that tractor. You did very good.

 

[Leo Haddox]

I did not know that info was silk screened on the
tags. I wondered why the 450 I just bought only has
402 stamped on the tag. Now I know there used to
be more there that faded.

 

[El Toro]

Here's the 230. Hal

 

[gene bender]

Just refresh the starter and gen and it will be just fine on 6v cheaper than rewiring,lites new batt ect that 123 engine will start great even in the winter.

 

[Lucid]

The serial number tag is on the left side, located in clutch housing. To the right of the air oil bath. Be hard to read with being painted over.

 

[Jim Becker]

Here is a 200 I fished out of someone else's old post. Note the difference between this and the 230 hydraulic system (below the fuel tank).

 

[DeltaRed]

No need/reason to convert to 12v.Not unless you want to run 12v 'equipment'(lights,sprayer pump,radio,......). A good 6v
battery,adequet size ('0' or '00') cables(not '4' gauge automotive type),good starter will start that tractor easily.I converted
my 6v H to 12v simply to run a sprayer pump(and 12v lights),but not to 'improve' starting.

 

[Bodaver32]

Thanks gents.

All the wiring and lights on the tractor are shot. Wiring is cracked and deteriorated and the lights are badly rusted incorrect aftermarket.

I thought while I had to redo the wiring and lighting, it could be a good time to convert to 12 v. I was mainly going to do it for the convenience of jumping and charging. I don't own a 6 volt charger.

But, I guess I could invest in a charger for what I was going to pay for an alternator.

I am familiar with generator systems as I restored an M38 jeep (24v) system. The positive ground is new to me, but I do understand the concept.

 

[Janicholson]

Alternators are 45 bucks and include the regulator. A quality USA made regulator is as much or more. Delco 10SI hooked up with a diode or clearance light in the Excite wire from the on off switch to #1 spade, a jumper from #2 spade terminal to the big terminal (about 6 inches of wire) and a #10 wire to a 35 amp fuse link then to the amp meter load side is all it takes. Jim

 

[NoNewParts]

great deal
I have quite a few C's and SC's around here and like said,
those 36's on those rims are worth more than you paid for the whole tractor.
Been a few times in the past in a tire/rim short situation,
I would have paid that.....for one...

 

[wolfman]

The manifold, the lack of rocker arms, and the steering shaft support say 230. Also what little the pics show of the front of the fast hitch mechanism says 230. .Also, the 230s had either a crater piston or cupped piston and had a different sound at
the exhaust (I can't hear it from here). If it will backfire going down a steep grade, it's a 230.

 

[nl00sb]

Hydrolic unit looks like my 230 had

 

[Bodaver32]

(quoted from post at 07:06:40 10/26/15) The paint color isn't a very reliable indicator. Someone could have done a "spray can upgrade" to make it look like a later model.

The biggest indicator I am aware of that distinguishes the 200 from the 230 is the hydraulic system. The 200 had a Touch Control system essentially the same as the C and Super C. The 230 usually had a Hydra-touch system that was very different in features. Your tractor has a Hydra-touch system, makes it a 230. The Fast-Hitch on the back was changed a lot between the 2 models as well, but can't be seen in your pictures.

Most of the information on the serial number plate was silk screened on. It usually fades with time, often disappears completely. The serial number itself was stamped in. It usually survives. Can you see a number on your plate? The 200 serial numbers went from 501 to 15698. 230 serial numbers went from 501 to 7671. So if your number is greater than 7671 it wuld have to be a 200. There is also an engine number, stamped on a machined boss on the right side at the upper edge of the engine block. If the engine has never been changed, it will give a clue. The first 230 engine number was 36001. 200 engine numbers were 35131 or less.

The other indicator would be casting date codes. The codes were cast in and look something like (*10.26.B*). The two numbers are month and day, the letter indicates a year. This example decodes to October 26, 1956.
Z='54
A='55
B='56
C='57
D='58
One can be found low on the engine block, straight down from the engine number. Other large castings will have them one place or another. The dates will mostly cluster around a fairly narrow date range and (obviously) be somewhat before the tractor was built. If one is way different, that part was probably a replacement. Anything before about mid-1956 suggests a 200 while later dates suggest a 230.

The pictures strongly suggest a 230. If you are still unsure, get the Parts Catalog and start studying it. The 200 and 230 are both in the same catalog and you will need it anyway.

Update - I found number 6493 J stamped on the serial tag and number 53646 on the engine. According to the Tractor Data website, that serial number puts it at a 1957 230 model.

 

[CNKS]

You are probably correct, but as to the year the engine serial does not match the chassis serial.

 

[Jim Becker]

(quoted from post at 08:40:53 10/27/15) You are probably correct, but as to the year the engine serial does not match the chassis serial.

The engine and chassis numbers are not the same. But they were not the same on any 230. As far as "matching", they do in the sense that they are in sync with the monthly serial number reports.

December '57, the first chassis was 6329, the first engine was 51953.
January '58 the first chassis was 6827, the first engine was 54240.
6493 and 53646 are both in range for 12/57, about as good a match as you could expect.

 

[Bodaver32]

That is excellent information. Thank you all who contributed. The knowledge here fantastic!

Now to get it cleaned up and operational.