I am looking to buy a new "small" tractor. I should have begun the post by saying I do not know a lot about tractors. I owned a 8N for 1 year and it died. I am currently looking at a MF 35 with the front loader. It is clean and the Hydraulic cables and connectors all look good. I see nothing leaking out of anywhere. It starts right up in the cold and sounds fine (not that I would really know). I plan to move dirt, new stones for driveway, and cut 5 acres of grass with my Woods finish mower. Would anyone recommend this tractor for this type of duty and is there anything I should know/look for on this tractor. I have 7 kids and cannot afford much more. Thanks in advance!
 
When you show up for the tractor test drive, feel the motor, if it is warm, then tractor may be hard to start when cold.
Ask the owner to have motor cold when you come for test drive.

test drive the tractor long enough to get the hydraulic/differential oil warmed up to operating temp. may take 20-30 mins.

stop the tractor and lay a piece of cardboard under the tractor and see if oil leaks out of the trans housing weep hole, may need to let cardboard lay there for 10=15mins. Weep hole is normally under the gearshift area.

if no oil leak, good!

if so, determine if its motor oil or hydraulic/differential oil leaking, either of these oils leaking can be costly repairs down the road.

does the lift work good when oil is warm.
test pto with a load, like a bush hog in heavy grass. If the pto clutch is weak, it will work fine with no load, but stop turning when placed under load.

be sure the lift works under load, not just raising the lift arms with no load.

check oil pressure and coolant temp once the tractor is warm.
Stop tractor, restart does it start good,


it will take you about 1hr to make these test, if owner has a problem with you using and testing the tractor, then run like #$%^%EW@@!!!!!!

He is trying to cover up something.

These old tractors can be a joy to use, if running good, but a real costly pain, if you have problems.

Note to the wise: you should always look at a minimum of three tractors, cars, trucks, etc.: before you lay any money down.
You may fall in love with the first one you drive, only to find after driving two more, that the first one was a piece of junk.

Good Hunting,

Am sure other more experienced gearheads than me will chime in and tell you other things to test.

Remember, pretty paint will not plow!!!!!
if it has multipower, be sure that works, if not that is $1000+ repair bill.
 
Is it gas or diesel? If it is diesel, see if it's 3 cylinder or 4. If it's a 3 cyl, it's a Perkins and it's good. If it's a 4 cyl, it's a Standard..it's what I have and not the most desirable. By stating that it starts easy when it's cold, probably not a Standard. They normally need a small squirt of ether when it's cold.
The gas engine is a Continental and is also good.
The 35 is a real workhorse for it's size.
 
About the front loader.

1) The front end of this tractor is fine as a tractor, but it was not designed to carry heavy loads.

2) Without power steering the loader will be useless and the power steering on this tractor is one of it's weak points.

3) When you load that bucket the back of that tractor will get awefully light. Be careful, the 7 kids need you. My grandfather had a loader on his that he rarely used because of the balance issues.

That said as a tractor for small farm work and especially for mowing the MF35 is a classic, one of the best ever. Just not much of a loader tractor.
 
To further what Edd said about the power steering, if it does have power steering it's not a true power steering more of a power assist. It is absolutely necessary that the power steering be operational if you plan to use the loader at all. If it isn't you will not only get tired of trying to steer it (I say trying because you won't truly be in control of it with a full bucket) but you will also be replacing the steering shaft on a pretty regular basis. My 202 has a similar steering system and when I got it the power steering didn't work. After destroying two steering shafts, I build a power steering system for it.
 
If I was looking to buy a used tractor from an individual, I would definitely take the time to test it as described above. I might even take along a compression gauge, lets just say it can be expensive if you don't, yea, personal experience speaking...
 
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