Help on changing starter Ford 3910

[FordManiac]

I’m trying to change out the starter but can’t figure out how to access the 3rd mounting bolt on the backside of the starter. Can someone help me with best way to do this?

 

[Bern]

A 6" extension and a 9/16" socket is the way I always do it. Go straight in the back - it can be done. It's not nearly as bad as some John
Deeres.

 

[Texasmark1]

Yepper. You can locate it with a finger on one hand and come down on it with said tool with the other, or get a mirror to locate it or just blind stab the bolt.

Reminds me of the old GM V8 distributor locking nut. I got tired of trying to get to it and located a ? -9/16 boxed end wrench that had both ends bent at about a 30 degree angle from straight that was made for the job. Well worth the small investment. I don't remember if I ever tried it on a starter or not, car, truck, or tractor.

 

[Destroked 450]

If your's has the dual filter setup I've found it's easier to just turn the fuel off and remove the fuel filters for easier access.
Then do as Bern said.

 

[FordManiac]

Ok got it. I ended up using a swivel knuckle as I couldn’t get a exact straight line on the bolt head. Anyway got it and thank you. So I replaced the starter but lights still only come on dash but doesn’t try to crank at all just like before. Battery is good. So now what all should I check? I really thought it was the starter as it was slipping bad and hard to crank every time. Had to keep coming on and off the key to get it to catch then eventually it would start. Then got to the point where the tractor doesn’t even try to turn over at all Only the lights on the dash would come on. Unfortunately with the new starter it’s still doing the same so there’s another issue somewhere. Thoughts? I put a new neutral start switch in several months ago so am thinking that might not be the issue so wasn’t going to check that first.

 

[FordManiac]

(quoted from post at 08:31:14 05/20/18)


Ok got it. I ended up using a swivel knuckle as I couldn’t get a exact straight line on the bolt head. Anyway got it and thank you. So I replaced the starter but lights still only come on dash but doesn’t try to crank at all just like before. Battery is good. So now what all should I check? I really thought it was the starter as it was slipping bad and hard to crank every time. Had to keep coming on and off the key to get it to catch then eventually it would start. Then got to the point where the tractor doesn’t even try to turn over at all Only the lights on the dash would come on. Unfortunately with the new starter it’s still doing the same so there’s another issue somewhere. Thoughts? I put a new neutral start switch in several months ago so am thinking that might not be the issue so wasn’t going to check that first.

Ok so just confirmed all wires hooked up correctly, battery is good, neutral start is by passed so not a issue. All terminals are removed and cleaned. What next? Could the voltage regulator be the issue

 

[Eman85]

Do you own a test light or a voltmeter? Of course the first thing to check is the condition of the battery, hook the voltmeter to the battery and see what you get. Leave the voltmeter on the battery and try to start and see if there is any change. Leave the negative lead of the voltmeter connected to the battery and now go to the ignition switch and see if you have voltage there. Then try starting it and see if the voltage is passing through the switch when you turn it. If it is then go to the neutral safety switch and ck if the voltage is passing through it when attempting to start while in neutral. If it is then you go to the starter solenoid. Ck for voltage at the battery cable at the solenoid first. If goo then go to the small terminal of the solenoid and see if there is voltage there when attempting to start.

 

[Grandpa's Fords]

Don't know if this your issue or not! I have a much newer tractor that did what yours is doing. Replaced a starter to find it did the same thing checked all connections and so on. Local guru handed me a triggering relay to try, he explained that the wiring can degrade over time enough to weaken current to the starter although the solenoid kicked in there wasn't enough voltage/ampacity to turn the starter. The triggering relay was installed bypassing all the other switches and safeties. This allowed current directly to the starter from the battery. Newer equipment failure was more common due to all of the safety switches and electronics that are drawing on the system. But I would say worth look into.
Been a couple years since I did this and don't recall exactly what I did but I did google at the time to find the wiring diagram and install.

 

[Destroked 450]

Jump across from the start post on the starter to the battery post, make sure the tractor is in natural.
If it cranks ok the starter, battery and main cables are ok and the problem is in the key circuit.

A couple of problems I've had.
The key switch went bad on the mil's 5600 and it wouldn't crank over at times, finally stopped cranking over until I replaced the key switch.
The harness plug on my 4000SU wasn't getting good connection and the starter was jumping in and out making me think I had a bad starter solenoid.

 

[FordManiac]

(quoted from post at 13:55:36 05/20/18)
Jump across from the start post on the starter to the battery post, make sure the tractor is in natural.
If it cranks ok the starter, battery and main cables are ok and the problem is in the key circuit.

A couple of problems I've had.
The key switch went bad on the mil's 5600 and it wouldn't crank over at times, finally stopped cranking over until I replaced the key switch.
The harness plug on my 4000SU wasn't getting good connection and the starter was jumping in and out making me think I had a bad starter solenoid.

Ok so is the start post the one thats lower on the starter with only 1 big wire going to it? Then to the positive of the battery itself?

 

[Destroked 450]

No! the start post is the small sometimes push on connector that the one small wire connects to beside the two big post.

 

[FordManiac]

(quoted from post at 11:26:59 05/20/18) Do you own a test light or a voltmeter? Of course the first thing to check is the condition of the battery, hook the voltmeter to the battery and see what you get. Leave the voltmeter on the battery and try to start and see if there is any change. Leave the negative lead of the voltmeter connected to the battery and now go to the ignition switch and see if you have voltage there. Then try starting it and see if the voltage is passing through the switch when you turn it. If it is then go to the neutral safety switch and ck if the voltage is passing through it when attempting to start while in neutral. If it is then you go to the starter solenoid. Ck for voltage at the battery cable at the solenoid first. If goo then go to the small terminal of the solenoid and see if there is voltage there when attempting to start.

Ok got’er done guys and thank you. Purchased a test light light Eman85 suggested and worked my way back. To my surprise it ended up being a bad neutral start switch. I was surprised to as I replaced it just last year and normally I can wiggle the 2 levers to get it to activate. Anyway the light worked great and have learned something new. ????

 

[FordManiac]

(quoted from post at 11:26:59 05/20/18) Do you own a test light or a voltmeter? Of course the first thing to check is the condition of the battery, hook the voltmeter to the battery and see what you get. Leave the voltmeter on the battery and try to start and see if there is any change. Leave the negative lead of the voltmeter connected to the battery and now go to the ignition switch and see if you have voltage there. Then try starting it and see if the voltage is passing through the switch when you turn it. If it is then go to the neutral safety switch and ck if the voltage is passing through it when attempting to start while in neutral. If it is then you go to the starter solenoid. Ck for voltage at the battery cable at the solenoid first. If goo then go to the small terminal of the solenoid and see if there is voltage there when attempting to start.

Ok got’er done guys and thank you. Purchased a test light light Eman85 suggested and worked my way back. To my surprise it ended up being a bad neutral start switch. I was surprised to as I replaced it just last year and normally I can wiggle the 2 levers to get it to activate. Anyway the light worked great and have learned something new. Thanks

 

[Don burden]

if you take the fuel filter out do you have to remove air from line to start tractor thanks Don i have the single filter

 

[Jim.ME]

if you take the fuel filter out do you have to remove air from line to start tractor thanks Don i have the single filter

Yes you will need to bleed the system if you remove the fuel filter on a diesel tractor.

Next time, rather than tagging on to an 8-year-old thread, I suggest you just start a new thread about your issue with your tractor, starting by telling what tractor you are working on.

 

[Don burden]

its a 3910 ford 1983 model how to bleed fuel system

 

[Destroked 450]

It minimum you should get a cheap I&T service manual or copy of the owners manual
Owners manual tells how to bled the fuel system