Help-Slushy Antifreeze

Help!!! I had antifreeze in my 77 that was antifreeze with some water that I tested and it was rated up to -15 and in Ohio we rarely get this cold of weather...well of course it's 3 degrees and windy. I did not start the tractor I was just curious and checked the antifreeze and it's slushy...not completely frozen and I'm freaking out. What should I do??? We dont have a heated shop or garage but I do have a kerosene heater. Should I try to drain it? Don't plan on using anytime soon.
 
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Pure antifreeze can freeze and may turn slushy at temperatures around 10 degrees Fahrenheit, but it typically does not freeze solid unless it gets extremely cold, around -36 degrees Fahrenheit. A mixture of antifreeze and water is recommended to lower the freezing point and prevent solidification.
 
Is it going to get colder than it is now?

Then I would probably try to warm it, try to run it to operating temperature, and either add more proper antifreeze or drain it. Adding a bit more antifreeze of a comparable type would be my preference.

If this now is the coldest and it gets warmer from here, I’d just leave it alone. Maybe a 100 watt magnetic heater low on the block would help ease my mind.

I would not drain it out while it is slushy. That will drain out the good stuff, and leave behind the frozen water. When things warm and freeze again, now you will have just water freezing in your block…. Be sure to get everything liquid and moving before you drain it, if that is what you want to do.

Paul
 
Even when water-heavy and slushy, it usually has to get uber-cold for a long stretch before it'll freeze hard enough to do any damage. I wouldn't worry too much. Unless it wasn't mixed decently or ran after you filled it: If you filled it using separate concentrate & water and it wasn't thoroughly mixed or run after filling, the antifreeze and water still might be stratified and not mixed thoroughly.

I wouldn't worry too much about it imminently freezing hard and causing damage. But if really concerned, I would fire it up for a bit to get it warm, shut down and loosen the lower rad hose to spill a quart or so out, top it up again with concentrate, then fire it up again to make sure it's all good and mixed. I typically go antifreeze-heavy in any of my mixes: Water has better cooling capacity than antifreeze, but I don't typically run any of my older tractors hard enough that a little loss in cooling efficacy causes any trouble. I'd rather have the mix a little anti-freeze heavy, to prevent solidification concerns and because the antifreeze contains all the corrosion inhibitors that you want.
 
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Search Assist

Pure antifreeze can freeze and may turn slushy at temperatures around 10 degrees Fahrenheit, but it typically does not freeze solid unless it gets extremely cold, around -36 degrees Fahrenheit. A mixture of antifreeze and water is recommended to lower the freezing point and prevent solidification.
thanks
 
Is it going to get colder than it is now?

Then I would probably try to warm it, try to run it to operating temperature, and either add more proper antifreeze or drain it. Adding a bit more antifreeze of a comparable type would be my preference.

If this now is the coldest and it gets warmer from here, I’d just leave it alone. Maybe a 100 watt magnetic heater low on the block would help ease my mind.

I would not drain it out while it is slushy. That will drain out the good stuff, and leave behind the frozen water. When things warm and freeze again, now you will have just water freezing in your block…. Be sure to get everything liquid and moving before you drain it, if that is what you want to do.

Paul
okay thanks. not gonna get any colder but gonna be this cold for 7-14 days. Are you suggesting I start it?
 
Even when water-heavy and slushy, it usually has to get uber-cold for a long stretch before it'll freeze hard enough to do any damage. I wouldn't worry too much. Unless it wasn't mixed decently or ran after you filled it: If you filled it using separate concentrate & water and it wasn't thoroughly mixed or run after filling, the antifreeze and water still might be stratified and not mixed thoroughly.

I would say it's about 50-50 but if anything more antifreeze heavy
 
Even when water-heavy and slushy, it usually has to get uber-cold for a long stretch before it'll freeze hard enough to do any damage. I wouldn't worry too much. Unless it wasn't mixed decently or ran after you filled it: If you filled it using separate concentrate & water and it wasn't thoroughly mixed or run after filling, the antifreeze and water still might be stratified and not mixed thoroughly.

I wouldn't worry too much about it imminently freezing hard and causing damage. But if really concerned, I would fire it up for a bit to get it warm, shut down and loosen the lower rad hose to spill a quart or so out, top it up again with concentrate, then fire it up again to make sure it's all good and mixed. I typically go antifreeze-heavy in any of my mixes: Water has better cooling capacity than antifreeze, but I don't typically run any of my older tractors hard enough that a little loss in cooling efficacy causes any trouble. I'd rather have the mix a little anti-freeze heavy, to prevent solidification concerns and because the antifreeze contains all the corrosion inhibitors that you want.
I would say it's about 50-50 but if anything more antifreeze heavy
 
I would say it's about 50-50 but if anything more antifreeze heavy
You may be much heavier than 50/50 on antifreeze. We commonly use 50 mix here in most of Maine. Some areas might go to antifreeze 60/40 water. Straight antifreeze jugs normal have a mix to temp chart on them. Measure and mix before adding to the radiator. Use of distilled water is often recommended.

I would warm it up and drain it then refill with either new mixed properly or use the 50/50 premix rated for an older gas engine.
 
You may be much heavier than 50/50 on antifreeze. We commonly use 50 mix here in most of Maine. Some areas might go to antifreeze 60/40 water. Straight antifreeze jugs normal have a mix to temp chart on them. Measure and mix before adding to the radiator. Use of distilled water is often recommended.

I would warm it up and drain it then refill with either new mixed properly or use the 50/50 premix rated for an older gas engine.
ok
 
You may be much heavier than 50/50 on antifreeze. We commonly use 50 mix here in most of Maine. Some areas might go to antifreeze 60/40 water. Straight antifreeze jugs normal have a mix to temp chart on them. Measure and mix before adding to the radiator. Use of distilled water is often recommended.

I would warm it up and drain it then refill with either new mixed properly or use the 50/50 premix rated for an older gas engine.
but I put PREMIXED in I so I think it should be 70% premix and 30% water come to think if it
 
Myself, I'd do what Paul said. Warm it up, drain some and add straight antifreeze.

I had a bigger problem than that Friday night. My five inch well with submersible pump has a bury system, so there's a tube with antifreeze that runs up to the pressure switch on top of the well. It got so cold that the antifreeze started to freeze up. Had no water, checked, and the gauge was at 0. I heated the elbow below the pressure switch with a propane torch. The pump started, then it didn't shut off at 60 pounds like it should. It went up to 85 before it shut off. I wrapped a heat mat around it that the wife puts under trays to start plants, then put a heavy coat over it to hold the heat. I've seen cold before, but never anything cold enough to freeze antifreeze like that.
 
but I put PREMIXED in I so I think it should be 70% premix and 30% water come to think if it
Sounds more like the 70 is water. Here is a common antifreeze mix/performance chart

coolant-performance-chart.jpg
 
Help!!! I had antifreeze in my 77 that was antifreeze with some water that I tested and it was rated up to -15
I would for certain throw out that tester or revisit the instructions as to how it is supposed to be read. One thing that is common when using the glass tube type with the floating balls is that air bubbles adhere to the small floating balls. This throws off their accuracy. You need to repeatedly squeeze the bulb to flush the coolant over the balls so their surfaces become fully “wetted” and the “hitchhiker” air bubbles are gone. Secondly, do you still have the jug it came in? Recently antifreeze companies have followed suit to soda pop companies and are selling water at a very inflated cost. I am talking about premix antifreeze. If you mistakenly bought antifreeze that was already premixed and diluted it again this creates a problem.
As far as running it, I would suggest placing a tarp over the hood and engine that will touch the ground on both sides and cover the front grill. This way any heat crested by the engine and the exhaust system is recirculated back up under the tractor. You may need to prop boards against the tractor so the tarp is held away from the exhaust in that area. Once the engine is warm to the touch drain out about 3 quarts of coolant and fill it back up with full strength concentrate antifreeze, this means NOT premix.
Edit: Sorry, missed your reply 12 so you are seeing what I was suggesting after “Secondly….
 
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Thanks, used red MN. I just reread #12, first pass I was thinking he got 70/30 premix blend which would be strange. He added water to premixed and that raised the freeze point up.

that8nguy,
You do not add water to premix antifreeze. You are best served with a 50/50 mix for freezing and boil over.
 
but I put PREMIXED in I so I think it should be 70% premix and 30% water come to think if it
Never heard of 70/30 premix. Ours up here is all 50/50. I would start it up but put a sheet of cardboard in front so you do not pull cold air through the rad. watch the temp on the engine and even open the rad cap so you can see the water circulate. once warmed up let it run for a while and remove cardboard once liquid/no slush. then test again with tester and ad strait antifreeze till you reach the correct ratio. You may need to drain a gallon or so. when testing I do 3-6 tests till I have consistent readings.
 
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