Help with 12 v conversion

[Marshall Hardy]

I posted my first attempt as a reply and thought
I should try again. Sorry for repeating this.

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I'm new to this site and noticed that there are some strong feelings on whether to us the original 6v system or convert to a 12 volt.
I'm not going to get involved in that discussion as I feel it's an individual by individual choice.

I would however, like some help with my 12v conversion efforts. I've installed a system that uses a single wire alternator, the original 6v coil mounted to the front of the engine behind the distributor but can't seem to get it to charge the battery. I've checked the wiring diagram three times and appear to have it right.

The alternator needs to be exercised each time I start the trator and once that's done I get a negative reading the entire time the tractor is running. I use the tractor every weekend and have had the system on for three plus months. Unfortunately I need to use a battery charger every so often and that kind of defeats the whole purpose of upgrtading my charging system.

Any help anyone might offer would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Bob]

1.) Your ammeter is connected backwards.

2.) Your "self-exciting" (excercising???) "one-wire" alternator ISN'T. Simply conect up an "excite" wire as shown with a diode or substitute an "idiot light" for the diode and make it excite "automagically".

<img src = "http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u125/27Grainfield/424IH/Alternator%20Stuff/AlternatorHarness31.jpg">

 

[Marshall Hardy]

Bob,

Thanks for the reply.

If I understand your reply than the single alternator wire must go to the negative side of the amp meter and the battery on the positive side. My wiring digram has them reversed.

What does the diode do and where would I get it or an idot light?

I guess I was not very excited about having to exert all the exercise to make the amp meter work .

Once again thanks for the help. I'll let you know if it works.

Marshall

 

[Bob]

1.) Don't worry about any markings referring to the ammeter posts. Connect it up the way it shows charge when the alternator is charging and discharge when the engine is stopped and the ignition system or accessories are drawing juice. You can verify if the alternator is charging with a voltmeter. The battery will be at around 12.5 Volts and come up to about 13.8 to 14.8 Volts when the alternator is charging.

2.) NO need to swap out the diode for a light (unless you want a light).

A diode, "idiot lamp' or resistor can ALL be used interchangeably in the excite circuit to eliminate or reduce current from the alternator's #1 "switched excite" terminal from backfeeding into the ignition circuit, preventing the engine from stopping when the key is switched to "OFF". Also, they protect the alternator's internal regulator and diode trio in the even of a poor connection in the charging system wiring.

<img src = "http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u125/27Grainfield/424IH/Alternator%20Stuff/AlternatorHarness31.jpg">

 

[Dell (WA)]

Hardy......you write....."The alternator needs to be exercised each time I start the trator and once that's done I get a negative reading the entire time the tractor is running ...... Unfortunately I need to use a battery charger every so often and that kind of defeats the whole purpose of upgrtading my charging system".......uh? you don't suppose the NEGATIVE reading has ennnythang to do with having to recharge yer battery, does it???

Listen to Bob, he has told you exactly how to check yer alternator charging by reading the battery volts when the engine is running. You should read about 14-volts. Iff'n you read about 12-volts, guess what??? yer ammeter ain't lying and yer alternator ain't charging. Take it to an autoparts store for a "free" check-out.

I HATE the deceptively desirable 1-wire alternator 'cuz you haffta "jazz" (exercise) yer cold engine to gitt-itt to start charging as you have found out.

You write......"I've checked the wiring diagram three times and appear to have it right".....guess what??? iff'n it ain't chargin' you ain't gotter right.

I'm a 12-volt advocate for the right reasons. That said, I haven't found the right reason for my eazy starting 6-volt 52-8N and I know how to do it right the first time. In fact, I know 8-ways to do it and they all work and about a gazillion ways to do it WRONG. And yer number gazillon + one (grin) .......respectfully, Dell 12v advocate

 

[Marshall Hardy]

Dell;

It is possible that the ampmeter is marked wrong. The alternator IS wired to the positive marked terminal on the back of the ampmeter and the battery to the negative marked terminal but I'll make a switch and check the battery with a voltmeter.

If I don't get a positive reading I'll take the alternator and have it checked out.

I thought, when I excited the alternator for the first time today, that the negative reading was because the alternator wasn't working and the tractor was drawing current from the battery. Prior to exciting the alternator I believed I was charging the battery because the alternator wasn't working and not because I had the wiring reversed.

Would the ampmeter read positve if the alternator was not working and the gauge was wired backwards?

Thanks for your advise and please forgive me if I'm not as quick to pick this up as I should be.

Marshall Hardy

 

[Bob]

WHAT part of "verify the alternator is charging and switch the ammeter wires as needed" didn't you understand in my post?

The "+" and "-" markings on the front don't NECESSARILY correspond to how the terminals are arranged on the back. And, I'm not sure the terminal/wiring arrangement is consistent across all ammeters, made in "The Land of Almost Right" or not.

 

[Dunk]

Bob told you how to KNOW right here...

[color=blue:ffc2b4b75e]You can verify if the alternator is charging with a voltmeter. The battery will be at around 12.5 Volts and come up to about 13.8 to 14.8 Volts when the alternator is charging. [/color:ffc2b4b75e]

 

[NovaNewfie]

Marshall if you've got a 1 wire alt. as you said you can forget about excite wires and diodes. Start your tractor and put a multimeter on the battery if its not showing 12.8 volts or above take the altenater off and have it checked. The 1 wire alt are supposed to make wiring simpler but they seem to be more trouble than they are worth.

 

[Marshall Hardy]

Good Afternoon Bob,

I thought I'd mentioned that the + and - markings I was following were on the back of the alternator. Sorry if I didn"t.

I"m going to switch the wires and check the battery with a volt meter. If that dosen"t work I"ll remove the alternator and have it tested.

Thanks for the continued input. Your suggestions are appreciated.