Help with Ford Model 333 "Highway chassis"

I have a few problems that i wonder if you help with?

Ive had the tractor for a year or so now and ive solved some of the problems ive been having but there are still some that id like to sort.. these are

1. the transmission handbrake does not work, pull it up and no engagement at all
2. trying to remove the steering wheel is proving impossible, ive tried soaking, bashing and a puller, but without doing some damage, i'm a little stuck on what to do next?
3. the PTO does not enage without the engine turned off.. ive looked at the clutch and its not engaging in 2 stages
4. transmission fluid needs replacing - im in the UK and not sure of what fluid to use
5. does anyone have a clue how to see if the alternator is working as i dont think its providing any output

thanks everyone
rob
 

made for the
mvphoto107929.jpg

Made for the UK councils for grass cutting, so im told
 
Take a dremel tool with a diamond wheel blade, or several blades, and cut a groove in the side of the steering wheel. Yes you will need to buy a new wheel. But this will allow a frozen wheel to be removed. I have several of these wheels as wall hangers in the shop. A shop manual will show you how to fix the emergency brake. Any tractor rated hydraulic fluid will work. but you dont need the expensive synthetic version. and get manuals (operator and shop) for a ford 3600.
 
What steering wheel puller did you use. There have been a few posts on here with pullers that will get the job done. A bearing separator under the wheel with a bar puller on top with 2 bolts will pull most.
 
333 was the replacement for the 3000 series highway chassis model (3120). The model number on the flat spot should start with either CH1 or CH2.

Most of those transmission hand brakes stopped working at some point over the years. You could try opening it up to see if something in the internal linkage might be broken or has fallen out of place. Does it still have the parking brake handle on the right side that locks the brake pedals down?
 
For your other listed issues/questions:

3. the PTO does not enage without the engine turned off.. ive looked at the clutch and its not engaging in 2 stages.

What is the full model number from the flat spot near the starter or the foil sticker under the hood above the battery if it is still there. It may or may not have live PTO, but if the transmission shifts fine with the clutch in and the PTO does not, then it should have live PTO, and the most likely culrit for the issue is that hte PTO clutch is stuck to the pressure plate.

4. transmission fluid needs replacing - im in the UK and not sure of what fluid to use.

Use a good UTF (Universal Tractor/Trans Fluid) thay says on the label that it meets or exceeds the Ford/New Holland M2C134D specification. Use that in the rear axle as well, which is also the sump for the 3 point hydraulics.

5. does anyone have a clue how to see if the alternator is working as i dont think its providing any output

Measure the battery voltage with the tractor shut off. That should read around 12.4 volts. Then read the voltage again with it running. If the charging circuit is working properly, it should read between 13.4 and 14.5 volts.
 
As far as the oil goes, I use Morris's of Shrewsbury for my supplier, very good oil, good price,
good supplier, if ordered via internet will deliver to your door if required. I have known and
used their oils for over 60 years. Their Universal oil will do engine, gearbox and rear axle on
that tractor. Do not buy Super TOU as that contains anti-brake squark additives which will cause
glazing on the cylinder bores if your tractor is in light use.

I am also in the UK, just a few dozen miles from you.
 
wow, a very nice operator deck and fender system, and an unusual bracket on the front... for a mower attachment or weights?? Some of the parts books show they also had a ground speed speedometer option on them as well.
 
CH2136 says it is a 333 highway chassis tractor with a diesel engine, live PTO and an 8 speed transmission. So it should have a double clutch and it sounds like the PTO clutch is stuck. If you have a very heavy implement like a bush hog,you could try running that in very heavy brush with the clutch pushed halfway in to see if that might break it loose. Otherwise I am afraid you will need to split the tractor and likely replace the entire double clutch assembly.
 
If it is an earlier version, it may have a clevis like this one on the clutch arm near the shaft
through the bell housing. (not quite like this but similar). You will need to move the pin to
the rear hole to get your PTO clutch to work.

cvphoto159734.jpg
 

sorry its taken me a while to get back to you all - been working away for a while, i'll have a look tomorrow and let you know..

cheers for all the help
 
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