Help with Replacing Deere 2010 Outer Tie Rod End

[TheBrokenFarmer]

Hi,

Drove into a tree today and messed up some things. At a minimum I need to replace the outer tie rod end. I ordered one from Reliable Aftermarket Parts. It was AT13972. It looks like you should just be able to remove the two cross bolts and then slide out the outer tie rod end, but its not budging. I tried to pull it with a slide hammer a few times and still nothing. My next plan would be to put a bunch of heat into it, but I'm worried I'm going to destroy the inner rod end too. It already looks like this was a weld-on previous repair hack; the inner tie rod end doesn't really seem to be in line with the steering rod.

Any suggestions for getting the old broken one out?

Should I just cut the old one out and weld on the new one?

If I can get it out, will I need to also remove the short steering link to press in the tie rod end ball join thingamajig?

John

 

[Steve in VA]

Hi,

Drove into a tree today and messed up some things. At a minimum I need to replace the outer tie rod end. I ordered one from Reliable Aftermarket Parts. It was AT13972. It looks like you should just be able to remove the two cross bolts and then slide out the outer tie rod end, but its not budging. I tried to pull it with a slide hammer a few times and still nothing. My next plan would be to put a bunch of heat into it, but I'm worried I'm going to destroy the inner rod end too. It already looks like this was a weld-on previous repair hack; the inner tie rod end doesn't really seem to be in line with the steering rod.

Any suggestions for getting the old broken one out?

Should I just cut the old one out and weld on the new one?

If I can get it out, will I need to also remove the short steering link to press in the tie rod end ball join thingamajig?

John

If its w/in the budget I believe I would replace the whole shebang from ball joint to ball joint including the tube. But, that's just me and I haven't priced those pieces.

 

[Steve in VA]

Hi,

Drove into a tree today and messed up some things. At a minimum I need to replace the outer tie rod end. I ordered one from Reliable Aftermarket Parts. It was AT13972. It looks like you should just be able to remove the two cross bolts and then slide out the outer tie rod end, but its not budging. I tried to pull it with a slide hammer a few times and still nothing. My next plan would be to put a bunch of heat into it, but I'm worried I'm going to destroy the inner rod end too. It already looks like this was a weld-on previous repair hack; the inner tie rod end doesn't really seem to be in line with the steering rod.

Any suggestions for getting the old broken one out?

Should I just cut the old one out and weld on the new one?

If I can get it out, will I need to also remove the short steering link to press in the tie rod end ball join thingamajig?

John

Appologies. To your questions. Yes, the outer end should just slide out of the tube. The prior damage may have bent it and complicated matters plus rust of ages. You may discover that the inner ball joint is best replaced due to wear. The shaft of the joint is a tapered fit so you can remove the old one w/o removing the arm. Hammer the arm perpendicularly to the ball joint shaft to help rattle it loose. Hope this helps. Removing the inner joint so you can work at a bench would be a real plus.

 

[rustred]

That tie Rod is worn right out. Bumping it with a tree just finished it off before you had an accident driving down the road and it fell off. Plus if you’re taking a picture focus it in the sunlight so a person can see what’s going on. I have never saw a tie Rod just pushed into a tube and clamped. How do u set your toe in then. Need threads on it , but can’t see what u got going on there. A few good snacks with a fair sized hammer will get that ball out of the spindle arm.

 

[caterpillar guy]

The threads are on the inside end where it has been broke and welded so he has no adjustment it looks like anymore. I would take the whole thing off then heat the tube to pull the outer piece out. Now I have also used the steering to pull them when I could not do so. I just held that tierod to the ball on the outside then with everything all off in the middle just turned the steering wheel and sometimes they came apart. And some times I had to put a block between the steering arm and the side of the frame then turn and it would pull them out for me. Using the steering as my puller. One wants to be careful on that so they don't break other parts doing that method. I also plaster them in diesel fuel or used engine oil.

 

[TheBrokenFarmer]

That tie Rod is worn right out. Bumping it with a tree just finished it off before you had an accident driving down the road and it fell off. Plus if you’re taking a picture focus it in the sunlight so a person can see what’s going on. I have never saw a tie Rod just pushed into a tube and clamped. How do u set your toe in then. Need threads on it , but can’t see what u got going on there. A few good snacks with a fair sized hammer will get that ball out of the spindle arm.

Thanks for the comment. Yeah I suppose I should be thankful it failed how it did. The tree popped my left front tire and this fell off as I parked it in the driveway.

Sounds like I should probably bite the bullet and replace both sides and inner and outer.

From the service manual, it looks like the best way to do this is to pull the whole front axle off?

Does that sound right?

 

[TheBrokenFarmer]

The threads are on the inside end where it has been broke and welded so he has no adjustment it looks like anymore. I would take the whole thing off then heat the tube to pull the outer piece out. Now I have also used the steering to pull them when I could not do so. I just held that tierod to the ball on the outside then with everything all off in the middle just turned the steering wheel and sometimes they came apart. And some times I had to put a block between the steering arm and the side of the frame then turn and it would pull them out for me. Using the steering as my puller. One wants to be careful on that so they don't break other parts doing that method. I also plaster them in diesel fuel or used engine oil.

That’s a clever trick. You probably need power steering to make that work, yeah?

 

[Steve in VA]

Thanks for the comment. Yeah I suppose I should be thankful it failed how it did. The tree popped my left front tire and this fell off as I parked it in the driveway.

Sounds like I should probably bite the bullet and replace both sides and inner and outer.

From the service manual, it looks like the best way to do this is to pull the whole front axle off?

Does that sound right?

No, it doesn't sound right. Change out 1 side at a time beginning with the broken side. Last will be a need to realign the tires.

 

[Jim.ME]

Thanks for the comment. Yeah I suppose I should be thankful it failed how it did. The tree popped my left front tire and this fell off as I parked it in the driveway.

Sounds like I should probably bite the bullet and replace both sides and inner and outer.

From the service manual, it looks like the best way to do this is to pull the whole front axle off?

Does that sound right?

Replace that entire right side tie rod assembly. You should be able to get the right inner ball joint out of the steering arm with the axle in place, as you will be replacing the inner ball joint a "pickle fork" is likely the easiest way to free that ball joint from the steering arm over the axle support.

 

[TheBrokenFarmer]

Replace that entire right side tie rod assembly. You should be able to get the right inner ball joint out of the steering arm with the axle in place, as you will be replacing the inner ball joint a "pickle fork" is likely the easiest way to free that ball joint from the steering arm over the axle support.

Roger. Yeah I got the outer ball joint out with a hammer no problem. Using a pickle fork on the inner makes sense too.

How do you get the new ones in? Do you have to use a press or can you pull them in with the nut?

 

[TheBrokenFarmer]

Just had to give it a few tugs downward and it disintegrated.

I’ll go get a pickle fork to get the ball out now.

I think I massively misjudged how sketchy this really was.

 

[Jim.ME]

You pull them in with the nut.

 

[Steve in VA]

Roger. Yeah I got the outer ball joint out with a hammer no problem. Using a pickle fork on the inner makes sense too.

How do you get the new ones in? Do you have to use a press or can you pull them in with the nut?

They will draw down with the nut.

 

[rustred]

Just had to give it a few tugs downward and it disintegrated.

I’ll go get a pickle fork to get the ball out now.

I think I massively misjudged how sketchy this really was.

Wow wow ! You should have seen that much wear just by looking at the joints when turning the wheel back and forth .

 

[Steve in VA]

Hi,

Drove into a tree today and messed up some things. At a minimum I need to replace the outer tie rod end. I ordered one from Reliable Aftermarket Parts. It was AT13972. It looks like you should just be able to remove the two cross bolts and then slide out the outer tie rod end, but its not budging. I tried to pull it with a slide hammer a few times and still nothing. My next plan would be to put a bunch of heat into it, but I'm worried I'm going to destroy the inner rod end too. It already looks like this was a weld-on previous repair hack; the inner tie rod end doesn't really seem to be in line with the steering rod.

Any suggestions for getting the old broken one out?

Should I just cut the old one out and weld on the new one?

If I can get it out, will I need to also remove the short steering link to press in the tie rod end ball join thingamajig?

John

While you're in this far, check the bell crank for slop. If memory serves, it has a bushing where it engages on the pivot. Lots of slop there will shorten the life of your new ball joints.

 

[TheBrokenFarmer]

While you're in this far, check the bell crank for slop. If memory serves, it has a bushing where it engages on the pivot. Lots of slop there will shorten the life of your new ball joints.

Is that the piece that the inner tie rod ends connect to? Can you give me some pointers as to how to check it for slop?

With the tie rods disconnected from the wheels, if I grab the top and bottom of the front wheels and torque them I can feel some rocking. Is there normally any play through what I’m assuming is the wheel bearings?

 

[Steve in VA]

Is that the piece that the inner tie rod ends connect to? Can you give me some pointers as to how to check it for slop?

With the tie rods disconnected from the wheels, if I grab the top and bottom of the front wheels and torque them I can feel some rocking. Is there normally any play through what I’m assuming is the wheel bearings?

Yes, the bell crank is the center part to which the steering rod and both inner tierod joints connect. If it is worn it will be at the pivot point. Grabbing it to see how much play it has as you try to force it up and down will give you an indication of wear. I don't know of a standard. Off hand I don't recall a grease zerk so it will wear over time. I could be wrong on the zerk.

The wheels really shouldn't have much play as you describe and the wheel bearing may be loose. Once the hub cap is off, you can tighten the nut to take out the play. Again a very minor bit of play may not be a concern since you have a pretty good moment arm when grabbing it.
Hope that helps.

 

[Jim.ME]

Yes, the bell crank is the center part to which the steering rod and both inner tierod joints connect. If it is worn it will be at the pivot point. Grabbing it to see how much play it has as you try to force it up and down will give you an indication of wear. I don't know of a standard. Off hand I don't recall a grease zerk so it will wear over time. I could be wrong on the zerk.

The wheels really shouldn't have much play as you describe and the wheel bearing may be loose. Once the hub cap is off, you can tighten the nut to take out the play. Again a very minor bit of play may not be a concern since you have a pretty good moment arm when grabbing it.
Hope that helps.

I am pretty sure his 2010 does not have a bell crank, with the holes for the three rods, that pivots in the front support like the 2020, 2030, etc. It has an arm for the two tie rods off a spindle assembly located on the top of the front support, behind the grill. Still good advice to check everything for looseness given the condition of the joints on that tie rod

 

[Steve in VA]

I am pretty sure his 2010 does not have a bell crank, with the holes for the three rods, that pivots in the front support like the 2020, 2030, etc. It has an arm for the two tie rods off a spindle assembly located on the top of the front support, behind the grill. Still good advice to check everything for looseness given the condition of the joints on that tie rod

You may well be right. I don't have his specific model. Guess we'll find out as he chases this.

 

[rustred]

Is that the piece that the inner tie rod ends connect to? Can you give me some pointers as to how to check it for slop?

With the tie rods disconnected from the wheels, if I grab the top and bottom of the front wheels and torque them I can feel some rocking. Is there normally any play through what I’m assuming is the wheel bearings?

Quite possible, good time not to pull the wheels off and check the brgs and repack them. Brgs should be tightened to zero end play