Herschel Riveter

Burl1949

New User
Obtained a Herschel riveting tool for work on my sickel bar section, but seem to be missing the idea of how to use it. It"s advertised to enable changing sections in the field, but I can"t even get the rivets to set when using it in my garage. What am I missing? Do rivets come in diffetent hardness? Do I need to use a extension on my socket to get more torque? This tool is pretty simple, and I feel foolish for asking, but I"m about to give up and just use a maul to compress the rivets. Thanks for any inputs.
 
Never had a problem with mine.I've had 2(lost the first).I keep the threads well oiled and use a regular 1/2"ratchet.AFIK,all rivets are the same hardness.I am now useing section bolts.Lots handier-I wont go back to rivets.Steve
 
I used one to rebuild swather sickles when I worked for a hay outfit. We always turned the bar over on a hard surface and mushroomed the rivet by setting it. Then used the tool to form the head. If I replaced a section on the swather, I used a break over bar on the tool to smash it enough to keep it tight. Like everyone else on here, I went to bolts and will not change back. I still have a brand new riveter in the package that has never been opened. It seems to work better if you leave it in the package if you know what I mean.
 
Thanks for your inputs. Thought it was just me. Using the unit was particularly onerous at the head end, where the surface isn't flat.I guess some folks just have the knack for riveting, and some don't. I Think I will get some high arch hold downs to clear the bolt heads,and switch over to bolts.Thanks again.
 
I have a couple of things like that and they are good for installing rivets, though I have never been able to use the rivet removing part. I had a wrench for a while that had a 15/16 box end and a 3/4 box end before I figured out that it was meant to use with the riveter since one end fits the part that holds it tight to the knife and the other fits the smaller part that actually mushes the rivet to shape.
Zach
 
Rivets need to be peened. That is what a ball peen hammer is for. You need to create a rounded head. Then take a rivet set and finish it off. Try and find a rivet set nowadays. I got lucky and found one at a yard sale.
 
I'll chime in too. Bolts are the way to go, and most hold down clips I don't think need to be changed. Aftermarket ones have enough clearance for the bolts. High arch ones are more or less just for the head end to clear that.

We've got a NI 290 with a mix of rivets and bolts as it was origianally rivited, and as we replace them we use bolts. We started useing bolts after we bought a Hesston that uses them. They even use the same section, so it makes it easier to stock the tool box for commonly replaced parts.

We did get the tool for driving in the bolts, but it's not a nessesity. If you have an anvil with a hole in it, use that to drive the bolts in from the backside with a hammer. Does come in handy in the field though when a bolt breaks during the repair.

Donovan from Wisconsin
 
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