Hey! bc

[guido]

Hello bc,
I posted an answer to you Paulan saw. I don't know if you read it.
First thing you should do is gap the spark plug.
As i said in my other post, it probably is only gapped at .020.
Guido.

 

[bc]

Hello Guido. Yes I read your post, thank you very much. I just went out and messed with it. Sorry, but you were WRONG. I found the plug gapped at .021. Now just don't send your cousins, Vito the blade and Rocko the hammer, after me.

I replaced the plug with a new E3-12 plug with it gapped at .030 over the center point. That poulan pro 295 doesn't have a primer bulb. I did follow its instructions this time. Full choke and pull 5 times. On the 5th pull, it ran a little. Put it on half choke and it fired off the first time and ran like a champ. Ran so good I would have cut down a cherry tree if I could found one.

Tightened the blades per JD instructions on the homelite and this one. Both have a nose wheel in the bar. The homelite xl tightened up real tite to where I couldn't pull on the chain. Didn't try to run it though. That poulan pro had something I've never seen before, a tightening slot in the bar. I tried a few times but it would only turn so tite. I can still pull hard on the chain at the middle of the bar and just about get a tooth out away from the bar but it doesn't feel loose by any means.

Thanks for the help guys.

 

[molinebob]

I know whenever i tighten the chain on mine (stihl) i only tighten it enough to where you can pull the chain up in the middle and just barely see the bottom of the chain dog. If you go tooo tight you can ruin your bar fast. Had many people do it that way, the place i take it to to buy a new chain does it this way, and my FIL who worked on them for 35 plus years showed that that is the proper way to tighten them also.

 

[guido]

Hello bc,
Its usually a plug problem in a new saw. Always gapped to tight. .030 is the ticket!
Glade you got it going, not a bad saw for the money. Thanks for pointing out my poor guessing.
I out of 20 though is not bad?
Guido.