Hey there!

[redleg]

Hello from West Michigan. Just picked up a beat up old 8N a couple weeks a go and been lurking/researching. Picked up a new 7 ft backblade to help my neighbor plow our 1 1/2 mile of private two-track. Have chains and filled tires. They must've used that new adhesive-chloride to keep the old tires from breaking up. Added TSC special lights until I can find correct components. I'd like to restore it for long term use as well, doesn't really have to be museum quality, but I'd like to clean her up. A gear oil change is next, has some moisture in it, hopefully it'll quiet up the lift pump a bit.
Any Nsters close to Cadillac? I also work in Rockford.
Don

 

[souNdguy]

It will sure appreciate 5g's of clean 90w gl1 or 3 gear oil.. or if in cold cold areas.. 5g of UTF fluid that meets m2c134d spec.

As for quieting the pump? the geavy gear oil will quiet it a bit.. but these old ford pumps just knock.. not so bad when new and tight.. but when a bit older with some wear.. they bang like a drum.. but just keep on lifting. Worry more when it stops knocking. Short of a near total rebuild of the pump and chambers.. it won't stop knocking.. and you can pull the rebuild off AFTER it dies.. and get a few more years ( decades? ) out of it as is.

soundguy

 

[Bruce (VA)]

As cold as it gets in MI, the last thing you need is water in the hydraulic pump. Five gallons of fluid goes for $45; a frozen & cracked pump goes for $600.

Tips 3 & 4 at the link below will help you w/ the fluid change. After you get the old fluid drained out (overnight is best) remove both inspection plates & start pulling the sludge in the pump base out by hand. Then, get a couple of gallons of kerosene or diesel fuel & pour it into the pump base. Catch it in a bucket & reuse it. (Some folks use a hand garden sprayer.) Flush the pump base out 5 or 6 times. Do not start the engine to run the kerosene through the pump; kerosene and diesel fuel do not have any lubrication properties & you will damage your pump.

Some folks will tell you that this 'quick-clean' is not as effective as dropping the pump & doing a full job. I do not dispute that, but it worked for me (so far) for the past 3 years on my 1951 N. If you have the time, drop the pump; if not, you are at least getting some of the crud out of it.
50 Tips

 

[Lanse]

I would replace the fluid.

 

[redleg]

Thanks guys. I plan an emergency oil change this week. I think the guy I got it from did an expedient change and reused the oil after separating most the water out. I found a crack in the diff case I suspect caused from ice. I'm seeing a little evidence of slushiness on the dip stick, but it should have froze up already if there was a lot in there. I think just enuff t interfere with the pump. Good to know the rattle is regular, but it is slow to lift at times I suspect from the moisture. It was an emergency purchase as my plow truck died, but I wanted one for a while and hope to get it straight soon. The engine seems tight for now, so hopefully I can get some quality work done on everything else before I need to work on it. Already did a carb kit.

 

[Dave (Tx)]

Here is my 1950 8N. I needed to replace the radiator and was soon restoring the whole tractor. Now use it in my bushogging business for small and medium size lots.

 

[Ken in MI]

Don,

I live about 5 miles North of White Cloud. We should get about the same amount of seat time with the white stuff. 8N keeps on plowing and asks for more.

 

[SmittyN]

I have to chain my fluid and would like to clean the case without a dismantle at this time.

Question: Do you put the kerosene in the pump base from the top or through one of the inspection plates?

Thanks!
SmittyN

 

[redleg]

Nice job Dave!

Ken I get through there a lot. Fish the PM and the White from time to time. Definitiely in the snowbelt.