High temp puckey

[Paul in MN]

Hi Guys (and gals),

Some months ago on this board there was a discussion about some miracle puckey that would withstand the exhaust port temps at the back of the block where the typical burn out occurs. I tried the search function, but I probably have asked it the wrong question or wrong key words.

I am trying to fill some pitted area on the block where the exhaust manifold gasket frequently is burned through. Of course I will be installing a new exhaust manifold gasket as well.

Anybody's memory work better than mine??
Thanks for your reply!!

Paul in MN

 

[Bruce (VA)]

First, make sure you use the correct clamp. An automotive muffler c-clamp will not work. You need a clamp made for the N. If you have the correct clamp, it has a top & bottom. Make sure you put the clamp on correctly; check out tip # 8, below.

The nuts are brass, 7/16-20 x 5/8, NAPA part number STN104X, 27 lbs of torque. A bag of 10 from Fastenal is less than $8; part number 1175115. OEM studs are 1-5/8 long 7/16-14. NAPA doesn’t stock the 5/8’s length, but part number RFD 86644, 1 ¾ inch, works as does part number 86632, 2 inches. These studs are “Handi-Pack” items. (I’ve used these longer studs on my 50 & 51 N’s, but you should make sure they do not bottom out in the block on your N as they are longer than OEM). If you don’t get them at NAPA, make sure that the stud has an egg-shaped center between the different threads. Use washers under the nuts.

If the exhaust pipe flange is bent, you will never get a good seal; check it out. Do not try & hold the exhaust pipe against the manifold w/ your hand & tighten the clamp. Get out your floor jack & a block of wood; put the jack under the pipe to hold it tightly against the manifold, then with the pipe jacked snugly and squarely to the manifold use your ¾ lb ball peen hammer and tap the pipe tight to the manifold flange all the way around. Its soft metal and this will only take about a minute. Tighten the clamp. (Don't get carried away w/ the jack or you will bend the pipe. Or, overtighten the clamp & snap it in two. BTDT)

If the block is badly pitted, (usually around # 4) you will have problems; get out the hi-temp metal epoxy. (Not JB Weld) VersaChem's exhaust manifold repair, or ThermoSteel, is said to be good to 2000 degrees. Clean the area real well with brake cleaner, put a little epoxy on it, put some wax paper over it and bolt down the manifold. After it dries take off the manifold and take a die grinder and clean the epoxy that might squish into the port.
50 Tips

 

[Paul in MN]

Thanks Bruce, that is just what I needed.

Paul in MN

 

[Bob]

Furnace cement works as well as ANY bad-aide repair here.

 

[Dell (WA)]

Bruce.......I like to recommend some "shallow" 1/8" drill holes to act like "rivets" to keep the shallow skim of exhaust puckey stuck tite to the block .......Dell

 

[JjEjFjF]

(quoted from post at 11:06:39 10/06/09) Furnace cement works as well as ANY bad-aide repair here.

What would you recommend as a permanent fix as apposed to a "band-aide repair"?

 

[Dennis Conner]

See Bruce (VA)reply below. He gave the high temp repair kit brands.

 

[Bruce (VA)]

Great idea!

 

[Tom N MS]

Some folks use two gaskets. I did that and seemed like it was going to work,but soon after that had to remove the manifold, etc trying to find out why it was not running right.Not running right had nothing to do with the stacked gaskets.. Actually not sure what the guy put back on it.not leaking now and has not leaked for a couple of years.Might have stacked gaskets on it now..