how do I get this off?

[Braxmaier]

Can't seem to get this off, pretty sure it's it's a ford 5 ft brush hog, part of the top shaft is missing so I'm going to put a newer pto drive on, it looks like someone welded the front but not sure, I can't get it to budge.

 

[Braxmaier]

(quoted from post at 09:44:16 04/11/15) Can't seem to get this off, pretty sure it's it's a ford 5 ft brush hog, part of the top shaft is missing so I'm going to put a newer pto drive on, it looks like someone welded the front but not sure, I can't get it to budge.

 

[Bob]

The splines it fits on MAY be tapered, meaning it could be wedged on there pretty tight, but it doesn't appear you have used a "gear puller" to try to yank it off????

Do you have any reason to believe your "newer" PTO setup will even fit those splines?

As you are probably aware what you have there is half of a shear pin setup. Does the shaft you want to use have a shear pin or a torque-limiting clutch?

Do you have the other half of the shear pin setup?

If so, I would leave things as they are, if the telescoping shaft is bad it can be rebuilt from the rear yoke (that is the other half of the shear pin setup), forward.

 

[Braxmaier]

(quoted from post at 10:10:51 04/11/15) The splines it fits on MAY be tapered, meaning it could be wedged on there pretty tight, but it doesn't appear you have used a "gear puller" to try to yank it off????

Do you have any reason to believe your "newer" PTO setup will even fit those splines?

As you are probably aware what you have there is half of a shear pin setup. Does the shaft you want to use have a shear pin or a torque-limiting clutch?

Do you have the other half of the shear pin setup?

If so, I would leave things as they are, if the telescoping shaft is bad it can be rebuilt from the rear yoke (that is the other half of the shear pin setup), forward.

hanks for getting back with me, yes I have the other half of the pin set up I'm just missing the front u joint and the male piece that go's into the shaft, the guy at tsc said he has never seen this set up before, they do have the male piece but he said it would never hold up.

 

[Braxmaier]

 

[souNdguy]

If the tsc guy has never seen a flange shear pin setup, stop asking him for advice, he has none.

 

[Braxmaier]

 

[Braxmaier]

I agree, that's why I'm here asking you guys, I should have came here first.

 

[Braxmaier]

this is all tsc had that was even close, they said it was for a fertilizer spreader and will not work.

 

[Bob]

Are there any identifying marks on the yoke of the part you have?

If this was at my shop, the first thing I would do is identify the make and series of the part of the driveline you have. Any identifying marks would help. but that can be determined by measuring up the "cross" in the part you have.

Then, I would measure the square opening in the front of the existing part.

With that info, getting the parts to make up a new front section would be easy.

Baum Iron in Omaha would have all the needed parts, including a shield (as would many other sources).

Trouble is, you are probably not set up to weld the parts together and assemble the front joint?

I don't know how far you are from a welding shop, machine shop, or driveline service shop, but that may be what you need to look for if you are not set up to do it yourself.

If you can't find anything local, post back, I will help you if I can.

 

[Bob]

Here's a link to a catalog that you can use to identify what you have. (It has an "identify" section.) (.pdf)
Weasler

 

[Braxmaier]

(reply to post to find at 17: sll:00 04/11/15)

our right I think the spines are tapered, I'm gonna clean it up try to find some markings

 

[Braxmaier]

(reply to post to find at 17: sll:00 04/11/15)

our right I think the spines are tapered, I'm gonna clean it up try to find some markings

 

[Braxmaier]

this is how far I need, not much, the only markings I could find, warner auburn I think.

 

[Braxmaier]

 

[Braxmaier]

got it had to do a little welding and the shell out about 200.00 she's done.

 

[Braxmaier]

 

[John Kruer]

Glad to see you were able to get it back to working order.

 

[Caryc]

(quoted from post at 22:03:40 04/12/15) got it had to do a little welding and the shell out about 200.00 she's done.

Looks like you've only got about an inch clearance where that square shaft slides into the round shaft. How much clearance is there when you lift the mower all the way up? Just seems like you should have more clearance than that. You don't want the two shafts suddenly rammed together.

There would have been plenty of clearance before you put the ORC on. A lot of mower shafts just didn't have ORC's in mind.

 

[Ken(Ark)]

(quoted from post at 00:03:40 04/13/15) got it had to do a little welding and the shell out about 200.00 she's done.

New pto shafts are about $100

http://www.ebay.com/itm/PTO-Shaft-A...pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ae35de937

Slip clutch - never replace a shear pin again about $100

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SLIP-CLUTCH...pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item58ac33d735

 

[Braxmaier]

it is very tight, I am able to raise and lower without binding, if I took off the ORC it would work a lot better as far as getting it on and off, are you saying that I should take it off?

 

[Braxmaier]

(quoted from post at 09:29:23 04/13/15)

(quoted from post at 00:03:40 04/13/15) got it had to do a little welding and the shell out about 200.00 she's done.

New pto shafts are about $100

http://www.ebay.com/itm/PTO-Shaft-A...pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ae35de937

Slip clutch - never replace a shear pin again about $100

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SLIP-CLUTCH...pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item58ac33d735

tried to go that route but my bush hog has a tapered spline shaft.

 

[Caryc]

(quoted from post at 09:48:46 04/13/15) it is very tight, I am able to raise and lower without binding, if I took off the ORC it would work a lot better as far as getting it on and off, are you saying that I should take it off?

A brush hog should have an ORC but that is up to you. There are certain times as when crossing a gully that the front of the tractor will be up and the back of the mower will be up. Of if you hit a hidden stump or rock and the mower jumps up. In these situations, you need enough clearance between the two shafts.

The only thing I see that you can do it to cut the round shaft and re weld it. I would not cut anything off the end that slides over the square shaft since that square part only runs about 5 inches into the shaft. You could get that receiver end that takes the square shaft at TSC. The part is about 6 inches long. Just cut the old one off the shaft with three or four inches of shaft with it and weld the new one on.

Or just leave the ORC off and take your chances. I drove my tractor and mower for a lot of years without an ORC simply because I didn't know what an ORC was.