How do I pull a trailer?

[jim cancil]

I have a F40 with a 3-pt pull bar (name?) that rotates. I put a 2" ball in the bar and then hook it to a utility trailer. I then proceed to tear up the receiver on the trailer because the bar wants to rotate and knock the ball out of alignment. Any thoughts on how I should tow a trailer? Thanks. Jim

 

[Jerry/MT]

You can tow it on the the drawbar attached underneath the tractor (if you have one) or get a lock for the three point drawbr that prevents it"s rotation.

 

[tg in VA]

Agri Supply (800.345.0169 or www.agrisupply.com) has a category 1 drawbar lock (p/n 63963) for $18.95 that should solve your problem.

 

[jim cancil]

.... thanks guys. Ya, Jerry - I don't have one of those bars that come from underneath. 'Just El Rolo... I'll call for a lock before the day is out. Cheers.

Jim

 

[miner09]

Get a flat piece of metal and go from the last hole in your draw bar to lift arm at a 45 angle. Drill hole in the metal to put a bolt thru your draw bar and metal. Drill another hole at edge of metal at the edge of lift arm. Take a bolt and bend the end to make a J bolt, or buy one. Put the J bolt on bottom of arm and bolt thur flat metal and tighten bolt. This will keep your draw bar from turning. A piece of flat metal and two bolts are cheaper than buying a draw bar that bolts underneath your tractor.

 

[Fred Hart]

Jim,
just buy the under belly hitch and never look back

use the cross bar to pull out post, etc:

using the cross bar, the first time you are pulling a pin hitch trailer and you turn too short you will tear up the hitch on the trailer.

with the under belly hitch you just have a bar out back so you have no problems with pin hitches or ball hitches.

Just my two cents.

Note: using a cross bar hitch you will also need the stabilizers that attach from the top link connection on the tractor down to each side of cross bar.

Why: if you load the back of a trailer too heavy or you are going down hill with a trailer, the trailer will push the hitch up and you can tear up something on your 3 pt hitch.

A quarter says you do not have all those parts.
My TO-35 came with all those parts for the cross bar hitch and I still have them hanging in the tractor shed.

Just buy the under belly hitch, then when you use it a few times you will write me a note of thanks for my advice.

Have a good day,

 

[BillS TEX]

I prefer the underbelly hitch - unless you both have a gadget to stop the drawbar from spinning AND a set of stay straps you are forever floating up or down - the underbelly hitch is about $100 on eBay from time to time - I good investment in my book.

 

[Toora Stephen]

I use a drawbar, but the rotation is annoying.
Does anyone have a photo of this underbelly hitch?

- TS

 

[Fred Hart]

http://www3.shopping.com/xPO-Ford-Ford-Massey-Ferguson-Drawbar-Kit-8n-naa-600-to20-30-35

this one is on e-bay.
most tractor supply companies can get it for you.

 

[Mark from the Fort]

If you're not pulling a lot of weight, and you have a front bumper with a hole, you can mount a ball on that an pull from there. May sound silly, but you can manipulate the trailer LOTS better when you are pushing the trailer in front. I store boats and campers in my barn and can tuck them ol' boys very neatly using this method.
Again, not recommended for very heavy work.

 

[lonestarjeff]

Jim:

If your trailering doesn't deal w/ too much tongue weight you've likely already figured out the easiest solution to your problem is a drawbar lock to stop the rotating.

If the tongue weight of the trailer makes the front end of the tractor a bit light, or pushes up the 3-point links, you could buy or build your own hitch to fit under the diffy.

I built this one out of scrap tube, angleiron, & off-the-shelf parts. I also have a ball hitch that switches out w/ the hook(just pull a couple of hitch pins).

Jeff