I usually change points every 3-5 years.
You will be money and time ahead if you buy good contect sets such as Std. Ign. Blue Streak, Echlin (NAPA), Sorensen (not the cheap ones), etc.
Always use distributor cam lubricant on the cam and DO NOT file the contacts.
If the contacts develope a layer of corrosion during periods of non use (as they will), clean with an IBM card or a piece of heavy brown paper bag (if you can find either).
Dean
You will be money and time ahead if you buy good contect sets such as Std. Ign. Blue Streak, Echlin (NAPA), Sorensen (not the cheap ones), etc.
Always use distributor cam lubricant on the cam and DO NOT file the contacts.
If the contacts develope a layer of corrosion during periods of non use (as they will), clean with an IBM card or a piece of heavy brown paper bag (if you can find either).
Dean
What brand are you using? Are you replacing the condenser at the same time? All the grounds in the dizzy and between the dizzy housing and block good?
Most people like the Blue Streak or NAPA Echlin brand points and condensers best. The cheap ones just don't last as Long.
Rick
Most people like the Blue Streak or NAPA Echlin brand points and condensers best. The cheap ones just don't last as Long.
Rick
i get about a year on my jube, then change them just for mantenence and so they wont give up , probably at the worst possible time, there are good ones and bad ones, buy the cheap set, thats just what you get, a cheap set, from wong foo over in china, and there almost worthless, i buy the blue streak from carquest there around 20 bucks a set but the quality is much better , also make sure your jube's distributor bushings arnt worn and letting the shaft flop around
Bruce (VA)
Well-known Member
Like Dean, I get 3-5 years. My last set of points in my 1950 frontmount lasted 1 month short of 4 years, and that is by no means a record. I've got 3 N's, all 6v & all w/ points.
You can change points everyday & it will not fix bad bushings. If you are having trouble w/ points failure, check the shaft. If you detect movement, chances are it needs new bushings.
The next trick to points lasting a long, long time is annual maintenance. (tip # 40) No matter how well it's running, pull the distributor (or cap for a sidemount), check the gap & put a dab of points lube on the cam. Not bearing grease or Vaseline; use the correct lube.
As others have mentioned, quality parts are critical to longevity. Having learned the hard way, I most always use Blue Streak brand points. They are made by Standard parts & available at many auto parts stores. (frontmount points also fit a 48 Ford as I recall) Beware of sticker shock: $16-18 a set. My next choices are Wells or Echlin. Look for a brown rubbing block. Unfortunately, many folks have experienced problems w/ points made by Tisco, Sparex, A&I Products and any TSC ignition parts..
Correct points installation & gap is also important. Make sure the blade is at a perfect right angle to the points & you want to feel just the slightest bit of drag when you pull the blade through the points. Make sure the blade is clean & that you dress the new points by running some card stock or a piece of brown paper bag through them. Gap is .015 on the frontmount, .025 on the sidemount on all four lobes of the cam. Make sure the points align correctly. Proper alignment is also critical to longevity.
Even as tight as I am, I always change the condenser when I change the points…….and then I toss the condenser in the “used” parts box. A bad condenser is rare; you can tell if the points are pitted/burned w/ metal transfer.
Good hold-down screws are important. (tip # 37) If the heads are wallowed out, what do you think the threads look like? You can use machine screws as temporary replacements, but you should use the OEM Fillister head screws. The larger head is there for a reason. If you do use standard machine screws, make sure they aren’t too long & interfere w/ the advance weights. Always use star washers under the screws.
When I was 16 years old making $1.25 an hour & a set of points cost $1, I filed points. I must have been good at it because I recall it was almost a weekly exercise. If you ever file a set of points, you will remove the metallic coating on them & reduce the life span considerably. Unless you plan to keep on filing them, plan on replacing them pretty soon!
And lastly………it does not matter if it’s 6 volt or 12 volt, you must use the OEM ballast resistor on a frontmount. Too much current to the points will burn them up in short order (leave the key on with the points closed & you will experience this “learning point” in about 3 minutes, tip # 38) For a 12v conversion on a frontmount, you probably need another resistor in the circuit as well but unless you measure the coil resistance, you will not know for sure. On a 12v sidemount, it will need a resistor if it’s a 6v coil (and even some 12v round coils need one) or you can just get a true 12v coil from NAPA & not worry about it. (tip # 30)
50 Tips
You can change points everyday & it will not fix bad bushings. If you are having trouble w/ points failure, check the shaft. If you detect movement, chances are it needs new bushings.
The next trick to points lasting a long, long time is annual maintenance. (tip # 40) No matter how well it's running, pull the distributor (or cap for a sidemount), check the gap & put a dab of points lube on the cam. Not bearing grease or Vaseline; use the correct lube.
As others have mentioned, quality parts are critical to longevity. Having learned the hard way, I most always use Blue Streak brand points. They are made by Standard parts & available at many auto parts stores. (frontmount points also fit a 48 Ford as I recall) Beware of sticker shock: $16-18 a set. My next choices are Wells or Echlin. Look for a brown rubbing block. Unfortunately, many folks have experienced problems w/ points made by Tisco, Sparex, A&I Products and any TSC ignition parts..
Correct points installation & gap is also important. Make sure the blade is at a perfect right angle to the points & you want to feel just the slightest bit of drag when you pull the blade through the points. Make sure the blade is clean & that you dress the new points by running some card stock or a piece of brown paper bag through them. Gap is .015 on the frontmount, .025 on the sidemount on all four lobes of the cam. Make sure the points align correctly. Proper alignment is also critical to longevity.
Even as tight as I am, I always change the condenser when I change the points…….and then I toss the condenser in the “used” parts box. A bad condenser is rare; you can tell if the points are pitted/burned w/ metal transfer.
Good hold-down screws are important. (tip # 37) If the heads are wallowed out, what do you think the threads look like? You can use machine screws as temporary replacements, but you should use the OEM Fillister head screws. The larger head is there for a reason. If you do use standard machine screws, make sure they aren’t too long & interfere w/ the advance weights. Always use star washers under the screws.
When I was 16 years old making $1.25 an hour & a set of points cost $1, I filed points. I must have been good at it because I recall it was almost a weekly exercise. If you ever file a set of points, you will remove the metallic coating on them & reduce the life span considerably. Unless you plan to keep on filing them, plan on replacing them pretty soon!
And lastly………it does not matter if it’s 6 volt or 12 volt, you must use the OEM ballast resistor on a frontmount. Too much current to the points will burn them up in short order (leave the key on with the points closed & you will experience this “learning point” in about 3 minutes, tip # 38) For a 12v conversion on a frontmount, you probably need another resistor in the circuit as well but unless you measure the coil resistance, you will not know for sure. On a 12v sidemount, it will need a resistor if it’s a 6v coil (and even some 12v round coils need one) or you can just get a true 12v coil from NAPA & not worry about it. (tip # 30)
50 Tips
Thanks for all the quick info!
I can't remember the brand of the points, they do have a brown rub block, and my auto parts store people know me well, and that I want the quality brand. I have always replaced the condensor at same time.
One thing I have noticed is when the points go bad, which seems to happen in a hurry when they do (as in 10-20 minutes from running good, to running just enough to limp home), is the points don't contact correctly. They contact perfect when I install them, but after they crap out, they are misaligned, as if the brown rub block is worn at an angle. So, I may have a problem with the distributor cam or bushings?? I'll check that today. Was getting ready to disc garden last evening, and they crapped out, so heading to town for a new set this AM, and I'll find out what brand they are. Thanks again
I can't remember the brand of the points, they do have a brown rub block, and my auto parts store people know me well, and that I want the quality brand. I have always replaced the condensor at same time.
One thing I have noticed is when the points go bad, which seems to happen in a hurry when they do (as in 10-20 minutes from running good, to running just enough to limp home), is the points don't contact correctly. They contact perfect when I install them, but after they crap out, they are misaligned, as if the brown rub block is worn at an angle. So, I may have a problem with the distributor cam or bushings?? I'll check that today. Was getting ready to disc garden last evening, and they crapped out, so heading to town for a new set this AM, and I'll find out what brand they are. Thanks again
I don"t think they are allowed to sell Blue Streak Points in Ohio! Well, at least I"ve not found them yet including at our local Napas. So, This site does not carry them. Can you give me a source for sure where I can get them on the web? I have an 8n and a Jubilee. Same points? Thank you.
years to decades.
install a good premium set like standard ignition or blue streak. gap properly with clean tools, lube the came/rubbing block, and check em 1/year.
make sure you have the correct primary resistance in the ignition ckt.
if i only got 50 hrs out of a set of points I'd be bleeping mad...
I can do 50rs of mowing in a couple good weekends during the right seasons here in fl.
soundguy
install a good premium set like standard ignition or blue streak. gap properly with clean tools, lube the came/rubbing block, and check em 1/year.
make sure you have the correct primary resistance in the ignition ckt.
if i only got 50 hrs out of a set of points I'd be bleeping mad...
I can do 50rs of mowing in a couple good weekends during the right seasons here in fl.
soundguy
Arkansas: I just changed the points in my '48 8N FM. I bought this tractor in 1993 and this is the first set I have ever put in. By the way, this tractor is used every day. I also have a 9N FM I bought in 1996 and have never had to change points in it. Starts easily and runs like a clock.
I just looked at the situation closer. There is a small chunk of material missing from one of the four lobes on the dist cam. Maybe it's been dropped before? It has a sharp edge to it. I think it may be wearing the rub block at an angle. This may be the reason that it had been converted to EI before I bought it. I converted it back to points after the EI went bad.
I agree soundguy, I run mine about 120 hrs per year. I've never had a set of points make it for an annual inpection.
I just learned the points I have been buying were Borg Warner. Looks like I need a distributer shaft. Bushings seem fine.
I agree soundguy, I run mine about 120 hrs per year. I've never had a set of points make it for an annual inpection.
I just learned the points I have been buying were Borg Warner. Looks like I need a distributer shaft. Bushings seem fine.
Ed Douglas
Member
Hi Bruce,
Totally off subject....you said you had a 50 8n
with a front mount distributor.....did they do sidemounts that year as well??
Totally off subject....you said you had a 50 8n
with a front mount distributor.....did they do sidemounts that year as well??
Hobo,NC
Well-known Member
- Location
- Sanford, NC
Cheap points work well in a side mt dist... its front mt issues that demand the best if their is such a thing as good points anymore...
Bruce (VA)
Well-known Member
Here's one source; there are others. Google it.
Not all NAPA's here in VA carry Blue Streak points either.
If your N is a sidemount, it uses the same points as a Jubilee.
Blue Streak Points
Not all NAPA's here in VA carry Blue Streak points either.
If your N is a sidemount, it uses the same points as a Jubilee.
Blue Streak Points
Bruce (VA)
Well-known Member
Ultradog MN
Well-known Member
- Location
- Twin Cities
I put electronic ignition in my tractor 6 1/2 years ago and haven't touched my distributer since.
Ed Douglas
Member
Well thanks Friend!
I got a pristine 50 block....and I want to re-build...It is a side mount....only thing in it is the camshaft...so my briliant idea is to pull
the inards out of my 48 and go to town...the 48 has some old welds on the block....and couldnt find a 48 block....can you see any major issues....I know the two were timed differently...and I am completely in the dark as to the process having only had a front mount....any ideas....purhaps I should at least get a 50 or newer crank that has timing marks???...I would appreciate any of your valuable imput!...Thanks, Ed
I got a pristine 50 block....and I want to re-build...It is a side mount....only thing in it is the camshaft...so my briliant idea is to pull
the inards out of my 48 and go to town...the 48 has some old welds on the block....and couldnt find a 48 block....can you see any major issues....I know the two were timed differently...and I am completely in the dark as to the process having only had a front mount....any ideas....purhaps I should at least get a 50 or newer crank that has timing marks???...I would appreciate any of your valuable imput!...Thanks, Ed
thornvilleloboy
Member
If you have a side mount distributor , can you share a picture of what it looks like under the cap ? Thanks Erik
Bruce (VA)
Well-known Member
I'm not quite sure what you're doing.....
You're rebuilding a 50 sidemount & plan to use 48 frontmount parts?
You might be beyond my abilities here, but there are considerable differences in the block alone. Timing gear cover, generator mounting, etc. And the timing marks are on the flywheel. And you will need to drill a hole in the bell housing to see them as well.
Start another thread w/ your question; it's been done before, but not by me!
50 Tips
You're rebuilding a 50 sidemount & plan to use 48 frontmount parts?
You might be beyond my abilities here, but there are considerable differences in the block alone. Timing gear cover, generator mounting, etc. And the timing marks are on the flywheel. And you will need to drill a hole in the bell housing to see them as well.
Start another thread w/ your question; it's been done before, but not by me!
50 Tips
Ed Douglas
Member
Thanks Bruce...I will.....all the things you mention should not be a problem....I was'nt complete in my info.....the block has the cover...the distributor.....I will check on the gen mounting....I was just talking the crank...pistons....rods ...etc, from the 48....I will need a flywheel then....and drilling the bell housing.....well...I got a couple of tranies with the said hole....I got the mark on the flywheel thing.....where is the other mark??
Thanks Again,
ED
Thanks Again,
ED
Bruce (VA)
Well-known Member
A sidemount flywheel will have 2 sets of marks, 180* apart.
I'm not at all sure about the marks on the cam & crank for aligning the timimg gear.
I'm not at all sure about the marks on the cam & crank for aligning the timimg gear.
Ed Douglas
Member
Got it Bruce....what does the flywheel mark time to.....like on a car motor....hatch marks on the block.....and the mark on the crank pulley for example.....to what am I aligning the mark on the flywheel.....again .....many thanks!!
thornvilleloboy
Member
Does any body have a picture of what the Pertronix Ignitor Ignition looks like under the cap on a side mount . I have been thinking of trying it . I was thinking it might help start better , when the weather turns nasty . Also with the hotter coil .
Bruce (VA)
Well-known Member
There is a egg-shaped cover about the size of a quarter on the sidemount bell housing. Loosen the screw & it has a 'pointer' arrow under it.
Many years ago in this sites early days after reading numerous beefs about the front mounts I decided to just see how long my old beater 2N"s points would last without touching them. They had a couple of years on them already and I recall about 8 more. I once had to remove the cap and dry them out due to a blown water pump and antifreeze soaking them. Put a new head gasket on a few months and and that time it got a full tune up too. Lost track but it was somewhere between 10-12 years and it always started nearly instantly and ran great.
Colin King
Well-known Member
Mine are 4 years old on an regular worker. I check the gap and add a dab of NAPA"s point lube every spring before field work.
Colin, MN
Colin, MN
Mark in Upstate
Member
The timing marks only line up at #1 TDC at 0 degrees
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